Fresh Pan Build Not Starting - Ignition?
#1
Fresh Pan Build Not Starting - Ignition?
Hey all,
Getting closer on my panhead build, but after a month of troubleshooting, it just won't start.
Specs:
I'm thinking that the Accel A577 is bad. I'm also thinking that I don't need that fancy of an ignition. Accel makes a more simple module: Accel Replacement Ignition Module For Harley Big Twin 1970-1999 | JPCycles.com
Question is where should I go next? Do you all think I'm correct on the A577 being FUBAR? Do you think the Accel module above would work just fine? Should I just convert it back to points?
Thanks for the help!
Getting closer on my panhead build, but after a month of troubleshooting, it just won't start.
Specs:
- Fresh S&S Build, super stock cases, '58 style bottom and top end, 74 inch, standard cams, 0.060 over
- S&S Super E
- 12v with alternator
- Malory Accel A577 ignition, Drag Specialties 3 Ohm Dual Fire Coil (2102-0275)
I'm thinking that the Accel A577 is bad. I'm also thinking that I don't need that fancy of an ignition. Accel makes a more simple module: Accel Replacement Ignition Module For Harley Big Twin 1970-1999 | JPCycles.com
Question is where should I go next? Do you all think I'm correct on the A577 being FUBAR? Do you think the Accel module above would work just fine? Should I just convert it back to points?
Thanks for the help!
#2
If you swap the ignition get the ebeyond2000, it seems to be the go-to. It made my 62 start much easier and I have another one installed in a bike Im just finishing up.
http://www.ebeyond2000.net/performance.html
http://www.ebeyond2000.net/performance.html
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Architect (04-07-2023)
#3
Flames out of the exhaust indicates the timing is way off. Like possible 180 out. Are you sure you have fresh fuel in the tank? Stale fuel will ignite slowly or not at all and cause problems too.
Are you using a distributor or late style cone engine? You mention alternator, so I suspect is later model cone cases. Also, if you are using S&S flywheels, I believe the timing marking on the flywheel are different than HD, so check for that on the S&S site. Be sure you have all the correct information and recheck the timing setup.
In the Accel instructions,
"ENGINE WILL NOT START Check that timing LED lights up when ignition key is first turned on. If not, check for +12 volts on red wire to COIL+. Check that timing LED blinks while engine is cranked. If not, camshaft position sensor or ignition module may be defective. If the timing LED blinks, but engine will not start, recheck all wire harness connections or replace coil(s). NOTE: 1996 AND LATER MODELS (1995 AND LATER FOR EXPORT MODELS) HAVE A TIMING MARK AT 20° BTDC FOR SETTING THE TIMING WITH THE O.E. IGNITION MODULE. DO NOT USE THIS MARK FOR SETTING THE TIMING WITH THE IGNITION MODULE. IN MOST CASES AN ADDITIONAL MARK WILL REMAIN AT 35° BTDC (SEE FIGURE 7). USE THIS MARK TO SET THE TIMING WITH A TIMING LIGHT AS DESCRIBED BELOW"
Hopefully the ignition came with instructions, if not, the link is below.
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...s/alm-a577.pdf
Paul
Are you using a distributor or late style cone engine? You mention alternator, so I suspect is later model cone cases. Also, if you are using S&S flywheels, I believe the timing marking on the flywheel are different than HD, so check for that on the S&S site. Be sure you have all the correct information and recheck the timing setup.
In the Accel instructions,
"ENGINE WILL NOT START Check that timing LED lights up when ignition key is first turned on. If not, check for +12 volts on red wire to COIL+. Check that timing LED blinks while engine is cranked. If not, camshaft position sensor or ignition module may be defective. If the timing LED blinks, but engine will not start, recheck all wire harness connections or replace coil(s). NOTE: 1996 AND LATER MODELS (1995 AND LATER FOR EXPORT MODELS) HAVE A TIMING MARK AT 20° BTDC FOR SETTING THE TIMING WITH THE O.E. IGNITION MODULE. DO NOT USE THIS MARK FOR SETTING THE TIMING WITH THE IGNITION MODULE. IN MOST CASES AN ADDITIONAL MARK WILL REMAIN AT 35° BTDC (SEE FIGURE 7). USE THIS MARK TO SET THE TIMING WITH A TIMING LIGHT AS DESCRIBED BELOW"
Hopefully the ignition came with instructions, if not, the link is below.
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...s/alm-a577.pdf
Paul
Last edited by pgreer; 04-07-2023 at 11:07 AM.
#4
Flames out of the exhaust indicates the timing is way off. Like possible 180 out. Are you sure you have fresh fuel in the tank? Stale fuel will ignite slowly or not at all and cause problems too.
Are you using a distributor or late style cone engine? You mention alternator, so I suspect is later model cone cases. Also, if you are using S&S flywheels, I believe the timing marking on the flywheel are different than HD, so check for that on the S&S site. Be sure you have all the correct information and recheck the timing setup.
In the Accel instructions,
"ENGINE WILL NOT START Check that timing LED lights up when ignition key is first turned on. If not, check for +12 volts on red wire to COIL+. Check that timing LED blinks while engine is cranked. If not, camshaft position sensor or ignition module may be defective. If the timing LED blinks, but engine will not start, recheck all wire harness connections or replace coil(s). NOTE: 1996 AND LATER MODELS (1995 AND LATER FOR EXPORT MODELS) HAVE A TIMING MARK AT 20° BTDC FOR SETTING THE TIMING WITH THE O.E. IGNITION MODULE. DO NOT USE THIS MARK FOR SETTING THE TIMING WITH THE IGNITION MODULE. IN MOST CASES AN ADDITIONAL MARK WILL REMAIN AT 35° BTDC (SEE FIGURE 7). USE THIS MARK TO SET THE TIMING WITH A TIMING LIGHT AS DESCRIBED BELOW"
Hopefully the ignition came with instructions, if not, the link is below.
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...s/alm-a577.pdf
Paul
Are you using a distributor or late style cone engine? You mention alternator, so I suspect is later model cone cases. Also, if you are using S&S flywheels, I believe the timing marking on the flywheel are different than HD, so check for that on the S&S site. Be sure you have all the correct information and recheck the timing setup.
In the Accel instructions,
"ENGINE WILL NOT START Check that timing LED lights up when ignition key is first turned on. If not, check for +12 volts on red wire to COIL+. Check that timing LED blinks while engine is cranked. If not, camshaft position sensor or ignition module may be defective. If the timing LED blinks, but engine will not start, recheck all wire harness connections or replace coil(s). NOTE: 1996 AND LATER MODELS (1995 AND LATER FOR EXPORT MODELS) HAVE A TIMING MARK AT 20° BTDC FOR SETTING THE TIMING WITH THE O.E. IGNITION MODULE. DO NOT USE THIS MARK FOR SETTING THE TIMING WITH THE IGNITION MODULE. IN MOST CASES AN ADDITIONAL MARK WILL REMAIN AT 35° BTDC (SEE FIGURE 7). USE THIS MARK TO SET THE TIMING WITH A TIMING LIGHT AS DESCRIBED BELOW"
Hopefully the ignition came with instructions, if not, the link is below.
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...s/alm-a577.pdf
Paul
Flywheels came as an assembled and balanced set from V-Twin. They have marks in order of appearance while turning the sprocket shaft counterclockwise - R| , F|, T:F. The paperwork that came with them (has S&S logos all over it) says that the R| mark is 35 degrees advance to the rear cylinder being TDC, the F| is the forward cylinder 35 degrees before TDC, and the T:F mark is the front cylinder at TDC.
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pgreer (04-07-2023)
#5
We take every Accel dist and throw them as far as i can - the pickup is garbage and the thing retards 10 degrees more then it should
so my guess you do not have the correct dist and cant advance and retard the timing - and to top it off you used hi compression pistons or even a stroker kit
what happens now is you will need to find a spot the engine will start and run OK and thats the spot you ride it as < it will be retarded in its timing and you will need to fix it in place - this is what we did with the choppers back then
what you could do is if you can find a 1965 or newer flat side OEM DISTRIBUTOR that is for electric start and install ed e 2000 ignition in it with a 3 ohm coil
aftermarket distributors are also garbage BUT if you like kicking it 650 times to start then they would work - or a big hill works
so my guess you do not have the correct dist and cant advance and retard the timing - and to top it off you used hi compression pistons or even a stroker kit
what happens now is you will need to find a spot the engine will start and run OK and thats the spot you ride it as < it will be retarded in its timing and you will need to fix it in place - this is what we did with the choppers back then
what you could do is if you can find a 1965 or newer flat side OEM DISTRIBUTOR that is for electric start and install ed e 2000 ignition in it with a 3 ohm coil
aftermarket distributors are also garbage BUT if you like kicking it 650 times to start then they would work - or a big hill works
The following users liked this post:
Architect (04-10-2023)
#7
We take every Accel dist and throw them as far as i can - the pickup is garbage and the thing retards 10 degrees more then it should
so my guess you do not have the correct dist and cant advance and retard the timing - and to top it off you used hi compression pistons or even a stroker kit
what happens now is you will need to find a spot the engine will start and run OK and thats the spot you ride it as < it will be retarded in its timing and you will need to fix it in place - this is what we did with the choppers back then
what you could do is if you can find a 1965 or newer flat side OEM DISTRIBUTOR that is for electric start and install ed e 2000 ignition in it with a 3 ohm coil
aftermarket distributors are also garbage BUT if you like kicking it 650 times to start then they would work - or a big hill works
so my guess you do not have the correct dist and cant advance and retard the timing - and to top it off you used hi compression pistons or even a stroker kit
what happens now is you will need to find a spot the engine will start and run OK and thats the spot you ride it as < it will be retarded in its timing and you will need to fix it in place - this is what we did with the choppers back then
what you could do is if you can find a 1965 or newer flat side OEM DISTRIBUTOR that is for electric start and install ed e 2000 ignition in it with a 3 ohm coil
aftermarket distributors are also garbage BUT if you like kicking it 650 times to start then they would work - or a big hill works
Not a stroker, standard 74 inch. It's 0.060 over boar because pervious owner seized it. Yeah I put forged Pistons in it, but that seemed pretty standard.
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#8
#9
We take every Accel dist and throw them as far as i can - the pickup is garbage and the thing retards 10 degrees more then it should
....
what you could do is if you can find a 1965 or newer flat side OEM DISTRIBUTOR that is for electric start and install ed e 2000 ignition in it with a 3 ohm coil
....
what you could do is if you can find a 1965 or newer flat side OEM DISTRIBUTOR that is for electric start and install ed e 2000 ignition in it with a 3 ohm coil
I have a '52 FL project. I've kicked the bike over a few times and it sputters but doesn't catch. Among other issues I'm sure the carburetor needs to be cleaned up. It currently has a V-Twin import ignition system installed that I want to discard, as I HATE that crap anywhere near my bikes.
This is my first pan, so I'm not real savvy on what is the best ignition to run on a stoke displacement engine. I'm just chasing ease of kick-starting here, and NOT high performance. What ignition circuit breaker / distributor makes the most sense to use with my '52 setup? An OEM distributor from the 50's that can be manually retarded? The 65-69 part you were referencing above? Or another American made aftermarket distributor? Ideally I'd pair it with the eBeyond 2000 ignition system. I ask because this thread popped up when I was doing research on the Accel distributor.
Last edited by FLshovelhead; 07-07-2024 at 06:24 PM. Reason: typo correction
#10