So, I've started a scattering of posts related to specific issues on this old chopper, but realized there may be others who plan a DIY resurrection of an old bike and may benefit from a thread on problem-solving and various customization choices along the way. I'm aiming at having her fired up by the anniversary of the purchase next month.

To kick things off, here is a list of most (not all) stuff I've done since buying the bike, in no particular order, and a photo of the bike to date (heads and cylinders off for a top-end refresh). I'll be leaving out the more obvious, long-overdue maintenance items like rebuilding carb & star hubs, new plugs, changing fluids:

- Upgraded to 12V Cycle Electric generator w/internal regulator – DGV-5000L;
- Loom upgraded with heavier main power leads, twin inline fuses, brake lights actuated by both front & rear brakes;
- Halogen headlamp & hidden LED brake lights;
- New headset bearings and races (figured out a trick to get the frozen-in upper race out without stripping frame to put it into an arbor press);
- Fitted new Michellin Commander II tires (tough beads, not easy to do at home);
- Ditched the 12" ape hangers for TC Brothers 1” x 28” chrome drag bar drilled for mometary buttons for horn and hi/low beams (air cooled VW Bug relay);
- LA Choppers chrome aluminum 5-3/4” risers w/1” pullback - drilled one of them to pass through wires for momentary buttons;
- Replaced OEM forks and drum brake with '83 FL tubes, 2000 FXST sliders, Harley caliper, remachined 2000 FXST axle and remachined '84 hub-to-rotor spacer;
- Cut down the squared-off, generic sissy bar, so I can either fit a vintage-style luggage rack or just have a clean rear fender;
- Changed the old school Pacer seat & P-pad for a Rich Phillips solo, with fabricated mount because didn’t want to drill or weld fame;
- Rebuilt ratchet top, checked everything out inside, and resealed the tranny w/o-ring added per another thread - no leak past the output shaft in months on the kick stand;
- Resealed and polished timing cover;
- Made a mount to move the filter so it’d fit under the bottom side-by-side shotgun pipe.

Today, I made a jig to hold the OEM ’66 cylinders for honing without oil flying everywhere (still within spec but glazed), 2nd and 3rd pics (notice remnants of carbon ring before honing in 2nd pic). Got a nice cross-hatch and painted them up, 4th and 5th pics, so just a little cleaning on the case and I can install them with new rings. Maybe manana if the weather holds.

Then it’s on to the heads, and time to bed in the new brakes and rings. Can’t wait…

 

Oh - I do have a question on the lifters. Looks like the PO went to solid liters when installing the '66 Shovel top end on this '51 Pan (original frame, with sidecar mounts intact).

What is the clearance for the tappets on solid lifter '66 Shovelheads, please?

 

Pretty sure it's zero lash and lock it down.. as in all solids...

Lookin good....

 

Right on - I didn't know if I had remembered correctly. Easy-peasy!

Thanks for the help.

It's supposed to be 60 F. tomorrow, so I'm hoping to get the jugs installed. Then the temp drops again for more snow on Wednesday...

 

Snow in New Mexico?? you must be in higher elevations.. Is that a true duel exhaust setup? Looks as if the front pipe comes down between the down tubes.. Pretty cool.. Never noticed that before.. Looking at the one pic of the entire bike I see the brake MC is right above the exhaust pipe.. That doesn't create any issues? And don't forget to post up completed pics..

This thread would do well in the Panhead section...

 

Yeah, northern-central NM, 6,000 ft. a little north of Albuquerque. We really need the moisture, as the forests are stressed tinder boxes. The wild mustangs are having a tougher time than usual finding good grazing. They and the coyotes are definitely a reason to ride at the speed limit when coming up the canyon...

Actually, it's a mechanical rear brake, for now (the PO did include a master to convert it to hydraulic). Sorry the picture isn't great down there. I had to replace the brake pedal stud and ream out the bushing, so the timing cover fins wouldn't get gouged again, and it was quite a job. Followed by a half day of sanding and polishing the cover to remove the damage from over the years...

Well, rats - yes, you're right, that would be the right place for this thread. Ah, well. I don't think I can move an entire thread...

For sure, I will keep posting photos. My idea was to continue posting as the last few bits go into place, then do some close-ups of unique customization choices. All of it's DIY stuff, so might be useful to folks. Coming up when the primary (belt) is back on will be my idea for a heel-and-toe shifter that still allows me to move my foot around on the left-hand floorboard. Hard to describe but simple to fabricate.



wouldn't get gouged again (took half a day to sand out the damage - see pic).

Yes - it's a twin exhaust. Paughco side-by-side shotguns, with vintage Sporty mufflers (reproductions by Gasbox). I've only got the lower rear pipe on, because it passes between the engine case and frame, and it's much easier to install without the top end in place. The rear cylinder's pipe sweeps around the oil tank, comes down a little, and places the mufflers close and parallel to each other. So, the effect is like Granny's old side-by-side 10 ga. shotgun. Should sound neat.

 

Got the jugs installed. Duplicolor ceramic high-temp in semi-gloss black doesn't look too bad and was inexpensive. Rated for 500 F. or something like that.

Used Cometic metal base gaskets with a light coating of High Tack sprayed on (Permatex #80064). That combo works great on British sports cars, which are notorious for leaking, so we'll see if it keeps this mating surface oil free. Also flattened out the case joint, which was a touch uneven just aft of the oil channel at the very back of the rear cylinder. So I'm hoping that will help, too.

Now to disassemble the heads and see what's what. One of the intake valves looks awfully receded, so I may have to avail myself of a local hot rod shop who said he'd install new seats if needed.

 

I look forward to your progress. I have a '60 Pan-Shovel chopper I have been working on. It has been on the back burner for a few years now. I know it will take a couple bills to finish it, so it is patiently waiting.

Dave

 

Years ago I used to use the high tack but it turned into too much of a real hard like glue that could be difficult to remove from surfaces later on down the road. Not only that the curing time would hold me up..So what I did do was I went to the Permatex Copper Coat, it works great. I've used it on used Cometic cylinder head gaskets and never had an issue.. Even on primary and Cometic metal rocker assembly gaskets.. Never a single leak..

Motors looking good.. keep up the good work.. I really like how the flat side case cover cleaned up.. Very nice..

 

Yeah, I have tried doing everything myself to save on labor, and had to space out parts purchases over the year it's taken to get it ready. That stuff adds up!

I can do everything on the heads to save a few more bucks, except for installing new hardened seats if needed. I've got a carbide seat cutter kit I got years ago to do the valve job on my '67 MG Midget, so can do a three-angle job here, too. Attached are a few pics of the Midget 'no lead' valve job I did after the local guy installed the hardened exhaust seats for me.

Can't wait to hear this old gal run!







Cool, I'd enjoy seeing your project whenever you're ready to post a pic or two.

Joel