Yes, you’ll want to use the primary locking bar when tightening/torqueing either the comp or the clutch so they don’t spin
yes am aware, but I wondered if that much torque 170+ would require more then the locking tool to get the job done....that was why I asked about the
1 1/2" wrench.
Here is a picture of a primary locking tool someone posted on here a number of years ago that I found helpful. I made one and it works great.
already made one. thanks. My questions revolve around the torque of the SE comp bolt and if more then the primary locking bar will be necessary to achieve final torque. hence the 1 1/2" wrench questions.
You won't need anything more than the locking tool.
Do use a long handled torque wrench that goes to 200+ though. Some try to guesstimate with one that only goes to 150.
curious, nowhere in the instructions for the SE compensator does it state to put Red Loctite on the compensator nut (the T70).
It DOES state the clutch hub nut needs red loctite 262, but no mention of the T70.
Can someone clarify this?
The manual (stock comp) states that bolt does need red loctite.
I assume the T70 does for the new SE comp but unclear why its not in the paper instructions that came w/ the new compensator. Seems odd to mention it for the clutch hub nut but not the T70?
Edit: this is the new comp bolt. Is this because it already has loctite on the threads from the factory? (but its blue? lol )
I wouldn't get caught up in the color...It's an Application Specific Factory bolt with Thread locker already applied (Dry Patch). It would then be "Recommended" because it's already there
Rotor and Pulley Bolts have come with yellow dry patch pre-applied...so what's that mean...I don't see anything in the manual about yellow
04-17-2018, 06:41 PM
