Dry or wet clutch?
#1
Dry or wet clutch?
Hello, I have "inherited" a 1978 FLH. Not possible to ask the previous owner details, so I shall try here.
The bike has the primary oil feed blocked off. There is some oil in the primary ( less than 1/8" at bottom of primary cover - no oil came out when I tried to drain). How do I tell if this bike runs a dry clutch or wet clutch? - I understand that both are options. Bike has chain drive NOT belt.
If wet how much oil and is 50 weight OK?
Thanks for your time
A
The bike has the primary oil feed blocked off. There is some oil in the primary ( less than 1/8" at bottom of primary cover - no oil came out when I tried to drain). How do I tell if this bike runs a dry clutch or wet clutch? - I understand that both are options. Bike has chain drive NOT belt.
If wet how much oil and is 50 weight OK?
Thanks for your time
A
#2
Welcome to the forums .
You can use Dexron II AFT or regular MC primary oil , 50 will gum up the plates on you . Sit the bike level as you can like with a block of wood under the kickstand , pull the drain plug and run a wire up in hole to make sure it can drain , replace the plug and with the derby cover off pour in just enough oil to touch the bottom of the clutch pack maybe half QT or so . That's all it needs , the ring gear will fling the oil around enough for the chain to stay lubed but not soak into the clutch pack & plates .
You can use Dexron II AFT or regular MC primary oil , 50 will gum up the plates on you . Sit the bike level as you can like with a block of wood under the kickstand , pull the drain plug and run a wire up in hole to make sure it can drain , replace the plug and with the derby cover off pour in just enough oil to touch the bottom of the clutch pack maybe half QT or so . That's all it needs , the ring gear will fling the oil around enough for the chain to stay lubed but not soak into the clutch pack & plates .
#3
either transmission fluid (automotive) or bel-ray primary oil -- i use the bel-ray -- 1 cup of oil -- if its been a while i would remove the primary and replace the bearing and seal -- -- i use these clutch plates and have excellent results -- http://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-PLATE...r#ht_481wt_892 -- clean everything with brake part cleaner - inspect the chain shoe replace if it looks worn -- inspect the chain -- replace if needed -- also a good time to look at the engine seal -- a good aluminum pressure plate works wonders as it doesnt flex like the steel ones -- also have a look at the transmission sprocket -- check the teeth --
i use a a/c green "O" ring on the clutch push rod and replace the hub nut seal also.. i tap the old line holes out and put set screws in instead of just blocking the lines off --
check the condition of the big "O" ring that goes by the alt -- they have a bad habit of breaking the aluminum flange -- they make a repair kit but you can make a full size gasket yourself or use - loctite 5699 sealer its made for oil type situations..
i use a a/c green "O" ring on the clutch push rod and replace the hub nut seal also.. i tap the old line holes out and put set screws in instead of just blocking the lines off --
check the condition of the big "O" ring that goes by the alt -- they have a bad habit of breaking the aluminum flange -- they make a repair kit but you can make a full size gasket yourself or use - loctite 5699 sealer its made for oil type situations..
#4
One of the problems of running an isolated primary is running low on oil. It only has to get low for a few miles and the adjuster shoe and chain are shot. In theory it is a good idea to isolate it from the motor but in reality it usually causes more repairs to the drive line. In a stock system the chain almost never wears and and I've gotten over a 100,000 miles on a primary chain. Before it was run over, my 72FLH was with me for 38 years and had in excess of 200,000 miles on it with only 2 primary chains and 3 adjuster shoes. The motor had 30 over pistons and the lower end was rebuilt twice. So I can't say running a stock oiling system hurt it. The secret is changing the oil every 1000 miles. If you run a sealed primary, check it before every ride. Oil is cheap compared to parts.
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