yea one would expect that ( the gear engage edge slots to be broken off ) but all the looseness and everything moving around is also at play

your best bet is to try and get an avarage and move the shift fork twards 3rd and see if it helps -- it is easy on the bench it is not easy in the bike -- hope your first guess is a good one -- jz

 

UPDATE:

started disassembling the whole thing and I have an issue getting the mainshaft off.
I removed the plate with the 4 screws and with a soft mallet tried to drive the shaft out to ...but the lower gear hits the bearing race.



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From the manuals and articles I have the gear should also move out with the shaft.. or I got i wrong?


I looked at the 3/4 gear clutch fork.. it's worn and not straight/flat either. gotta get new ones


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Last thing. Looked at the bottom of the case for the first time... well.. somebody messed with the tranny already... there's a bunch of JBweld or similar :S... nice surprice
I have not taken it out yet. Since I am going to rebuild the whole thing now, I guess it's worth repairing it now.
From looking inside, there seem to be no cracks... So I guess the hole is just stripped.
Thought about just leaving it like that scared to find a "bigger" surprise... :S



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we use a press / and walk it out enough to remove the snap clip for third gear ( 90 degree metal pick works well ) its a spiral lock or an open ended clip as it 3rd gear it self, will not pass through the case - as it is larger then the bearing race opening -

the moron that stripped the drain plug also found it nessessary to, it looks like JB Weld the plug in place as well - they make a heli coil plug fix or a time sert also works real well -

but we would put it in a bridge port and machine it squair and straight with the install --

install the clutch hub nut its cheaper than the main shaft - than Use a lead hammer in one hand and a steel in the other and give it the installed mainshaft nut a good wack hope that works for you

you do not know if someone not in there right mind may have used red locktighted on the race and or the bearing so it could be really tight an heat is also an option - heat the alloy around the steel race NOTE you did take the 4 screws out on the kicker shield RIGHT -- jz

 

Only thing I'll add to this is while it's open , pull all the mounting studs use penetrating / sealing loctite on them . There's 2 that go through into the case and they will seep around the threads , looks like a main seal leak if your not aware .

 

I didn't want to whack on the shaft too hard so I was asking beforehand... so the race HAS to come out with the mainshaft then (and YES, the 4 screws and the plate on teh kicker side are off )

JPcycles has a bigger drain plug kit for about 45$.. it's the plug and the thread bit I think. I will see how bad teh damage is once JBweld is gone

Johnjzjz.. I did't really got the mainshaft nut/clutch hub part... what do you mean?

TwiZted... will do that too, thanks Do you mean just threadlocker, or is there a specific threadlocker AND sealer?

thanks guys

 

This stuff , #290 , just gotta make sure the hole threads are clean I use brake cleaner and run a bore brush through . Put some on the studs when you put them back then a drop or two in the hole and let it sit overnight .

Put the clutch hub nut back on the main shaft then use a lead or a brass hammer to tap the nut instead of the shaft end if you don't have the soft hammer use a chunk of wood on the nut then knock on it , that race usually comes out fairly easy .

Pay attention to how it all comes apart you'll need to re assemble it that way then tap it all back into the case .

 

i will add i use Glyptal to coat the complete inside of the trans and engine cases after cleaning, and than i coat the top of the threaded stud with a 5 Min epoxy before coating with the glyptal -- sometimes removing the studs can cause more problems than its worth just my take -- jz

 

It worked!!
Nut in place, soft hammer, and more pounding than I initially tried.. nice!

Now... here are my parts:

-Drain plug and hole... well.. no threads left on the hole!! whoever it was, did a great job! :S



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-Main Gear:


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-Tird Gear:


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-Main Gear spacer


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-3/4 gear clutch gear


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So? Any thoughts?
I have a question about the mainshaft/3rd gear washer. On the JPcycles catalog they have 4 sizes: -.005", +.005",+.010" and +.015" to the OEM part.
How do I know what size I have now?

Similar thing on the countershaft gear assembly... to see what washer size I need, would I measure how much he assembly and what washer size I need limit that movement to the specs on the manual?

Mainshaft gear endplay: how do I modify it?

 

If you have a micrometer you need to measure the main shaft under the bushing for 4th gear < the back race was scored in the center caused my too much torque related clearance as i see it - check if its out of round and how much under 1.000 it is

third gear is wiped you need the new gear before you can check the gears end play you may also need a mainshaft as i see it - so a std thrust will probly work fine it you change them both --

you need to wash out the cluster gear and give a good look at the bearing areas to insure they are not eaten away as well - the unit looks to be very well worn so you cant miss anything as it will wreck the 1/2 you do if you dont look now --
start there -- jz

 

mainshaft under 4 gear is about 1.996"
round is within 0.001"