Just thought I would throw out an update... This is how she sits now awaiting the return of the new paint. I have been busy cleaning and polishing, few small repairs and upgrades. Gonna place another small order to JP Cycles this week for a few more things. Been fun so far just cant wait to see her in her new outfit!

 

Oops! Actually this is a pic of when I first took it apart! I will have to get a updated pic tonight, I cant find it on this computer...

 

depending on if your at sea level or high altitude... sea level a 80" with an S&S uses a 70 main jet thats with open pipes.. mufflers/baffles 68 main jet --- i would have a look see -- higher altitude smaller jet (less oyx) .. i found by sheer accident and because i liked the looks a 2001 honda prelude has 2 finisher cones on the end of the factory muffler.. look inside one.. these act as a anti reversion chamber and they will slip right on to 1 3/4 pipes... set them mid-point. it helps a bunch with that open drag pipe low end.. the S&S has a air/fuel adj screw if you have to turn it out more than 1 3/4 turns the intermediate jet is to small.. cam changes dont affect the jet open/closed pipes do.. i also found that THE best sparkplgs are the AUTOLITE 65 XTREME SPORT SPARK PLUGS .. dont adjust the gap you can bust the wire.. the newer ignotions like the single fire work really well on older shovels.. i have the crane one 4 years no problems.. cam selection depends on rider choice.. andrews cams work well for low to mid range but they rely on high lift.. siftons are hard to find if its a REAL sifton.. the best one i ran was the 414 known today as the shotgun #116.. .400 lift easy on the vavles and guides PLENTY of power it says run solids and this cam even with solids was quiet.. another sifton cam was the 55Q (#101) low lift .410 this is an old sifton cam that rpms really fast not much on the top end and can be run with hyds---- i run a leinweber L3S really,really LOUD and lifter noise but in a 80" its really,really,really FAST.. HEAVY bikes 24 motor -- 22 tranny -- 49 rear

 

Nice catch. And a '79 74". Hope you are proud of it. You won't find another that is cleaner.
I had the anti theft lock on my '73. Just turn the key, pull back on the tour pac and lift up. It'll come out in you hands.
As far as the clutch, it sounds as if it is just out of adjustment. Follow the FACTORY manual for adjustment and you will be OK.
Don't change anything else on it, please! Original Shovels are hard to find. It'll only go up in value.
You and your original E-Glide will be called on for reference in the future.

 

I am dam proud of it! Do you remember if your tour-pac was straight or curved where the passenger backrest is? I see most are curved with the backrest integrated into the TP but mine is straight. There is a separate backrest and also mine has the lock in back not the side...

I looked at the clutch cable closer and found a few spots that were worn through on the plastic covering so I ordered a new one. I will follow the manual to install it though. Hopefully this is the cause of my binding while turned left...

And dont worry... Besides paint, and some very small things she will remain stock.

 

I really have no clue what you just said... But you sound like you know your stuff, thanks! LOL

 

Back in the day, the '73 FLH was known for the upgrade "King of the Highway" package. The fairing, removable tour pack and seat mounted backrest were the keys to this upgrade. The backrest was mounted to the seat rail on the seat that was on a pogo stick. It was a big, butt ugly seat.

 

Yeah I have seen pictures of the original seats and you are correct about being ugly. My backrest is mounted to the seat and I wonder if that is because my tour pac is suppose to be removable, but I don't have the pogo stick seat... Guess there was a ton of options then just like now.

 

So I don't want to beat a dead horse here on this forum but I have some lubrication questions... (roll eyes now). I want to change my fluids, I drained my oil tank and replaced the drop in filter. I read in the manual to pour in a quart of kerosene and mix it around to flush the crap out. Is this something i should do every oil change? And is draining the tank and rinsing it with kerosene all I have to do? It says to not worry about the oil left in the case or lines because its no more than 5 oz, but I have a cooler, will that make a difference? I am gonna run Amsoil 50w or 60w...

Is the primary lubricated from the engine oil? Or is that another fluid to change?

I cant find anything in the manual about changing the tranny fluid, except for when to do it. I see the fill hole but don't see a drain hole, although I am sure I missed it because I don't know what I am looking for? How much does it take to fill the tranny? I have seen anywhere from 12oz to 24 oz? Also seems like most say to use 80/90w gear lube? I took off the fill cover and it smelled like gear lube. A lot I read talked about "clunking" when put in to 1st gear which mine does too.

I hate to ask all these questions but when I get lost reading 10,000 threads on different forums I get even more confused about what should be used. This stuff seems so simple, but the more I read the more I realize some have turned it into rocket science... Thanks again

 

I have a 79 FLH too..i drain my oil, put plug back in add 1 quart new oil and start bike up for a couple mins and drain oil again, been doin it for 16 years on my FLH...drain plug for tranny in on the bottom of the tranny, careful not to over tighten it..i run gear lube also 20 0z is what i put in mine..if it dosen't clunk in gear, it might be a honda...primary is oiled from engine from factory, many isolate their primarys, as i did...if isolated, stand bike up straight and add oil to the bottom of the clutch basket..good luck