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1984 FLH -- starter does not turn

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  #21  
Old 03-19-2012, 06:50 PM
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Pic shows up fine (enlarges once you click on it). Very nice indeed..and just in time for good weather.
 
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:55 PM
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Default my new/old 84-Shovel

 
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:52 PM
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And if you decide to run an aftermarket relay, run an additional ground wire from the relay to a good ground. A 6 inch loop to a transmission cover stud works wonders. And don't crank her with the plugs out. AND.....take the positive terminal off and hook the positive wires up with a needle-nose vice grip. So...if the fu#king starter sticks from sitting you can just unhook the vice grips instead of watching the wires melt while you search for bolt cutters. Just trying to help. Shovel's are on their own page. If your not familiar, it can get a little rough. Have fun.
 
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 05rkstd
Try the Ford style relay...and make sure you got a good, clean ground for the battery. I"m not in the mood to argue with others about the merits of heavy grounds, better relays, etc. If you decide to remove the solenoid, the exhaust will be in the way. But thats o.k. because the primary cover is coming off to properly do that job anyway. You really need an HD shop manual for that bike, and to listen to the "Grey Beards" trying to help you.

Do you have that Ford Soliniod on your bike? I'm just trying to give the guy good advice. I would not replace a Solid State relay with a starter soliniod. The soliniod is designed to take the whole current draw from the starter. The SS starter relay's only job is to provide 12 volts to energize the Starter Soliniod. I am all for good heavy grounds, that said If the OP deciedes for some reason to use the Ford Starter Soliniod there is no ground wire, it is grounded from the brackert when bolted to the fire wall. So an extra wire bolted to the bracket then to a good ground would be a needed. Battery Box is rubber mounted so just mounting to the battery box will not be a "heavy ground". Not saying it will not work, it's just not what it is designed for. I'm sure people used them in a pinch, they are available at any auto store and have been for 50 years. Missed the part where you said to add another wire for the after market.


If he gets the HD manual and follows it. It will not have him remove the primary cover to replace the Starter Soliniod(on an 84). So should he remove it anyway? If so order a gasket when your order parts.
 

Last edited by Jonas; 03-19-2012 at 08:28 PM.
  #25  
Old 03-19-2012, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by panz4ever
There are plenty of us that ride and want them...it is just that few can truly understand!
You said that so much nicer that I was going to

They are not complicated machines once you understand a few basic facts of life about one , debugged a bit and taken care of before little crap turns into big piles a shovel will take you anywhere you want to go or have ***** enough to try . Been there and still doing on one .
 
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:28 PM
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Been watching this post and I have to kick in . Been dealing with shovels for a long time I love them and I've seen them as bad it gets I'm the guy everyone finds their way too after the local shops turn them away . Been my experience most wiring and starter problem that are not hardware related are grounding issues with shovelheads , and old internally corroded battery cables . Age does this to the connections , the coating on the terminals corrodes and you lose good contact . Old battery cable may look ok but can have big corrosion inside you can't see .

A little electrical education for those who don't know , a cable is a bundle of strands . The partials ( electrons ) that make up electricity travel on the outside of the strands not in the solid core , this is why good cables are always a bit thicker and very flexible like welding cable . Lots of smaller strands means much more surface area for current to travel on . Corrosion is a surface thing , do a little association here and you understand why they go bad but look ok .

I run a dedicated 6 or 8 gauge ground wire direct from the battery to the back of the starter on most bikes with issues like you've been having . Be surprised how many electrical problems quit being one . Even if it doesn't help it damn sure can't hurt .
 

Last edited by TwiZted Biker; 03-20-2012 at 12:31 AM.
  #27  
Old 03-19-2012, 09:57 PM
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This is a 81 FLH I had a couple years ago. I sold it, wish I would not have it turned out really nice. I replaced the wiring harness, Starter Relay, Starter Soliniod, rebuilt the starter, transmission, and a bunch of other stuff. I'm no expert but I'm not afraid. I had a picture of it with just the engine and the frame. If you look at this picture you can see the ring gear around the clutch basket. You can also see how the soliniod will pull the starter gear to ring gear.

I did get the pictured bike back together and made a little money on it. My daughter made this video for me when i was selling it.

http://youtu.be/_l6_mvz5oCE
 
Attached Thumbnails 1984 FLH -- starter does not turn-1111primary7bike.jpg  

Last edited by Jonas; 03-21-2012 at 11:56 AM.
  #28  
Old 03-20-2012, 08:29 PM
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[quote=Jonas;9546627]Do you have that Ford Soliniod on your bike? I'm just trying to give the guy good advice. I would not replace a Solid State relay with a starter soliniod. The soliniod is designed to take the whole current draw from the starter. The SS starter relay's only job is to provide 12 volts to energize the Starter Soliniod. I am all for good heavy grounds, that said If the OP deciedes for some reason to use the Ford Starter Soliniod there is no ground wire, it is grounded from the brackert when bolted to the fire wall. So an extra wire bolted to the bracket then to a good ground would be a needed. Battery Box is rubber mounted so just mounting to the battery box will not be a "heavy ground". Not saying it will not work, it's just not what it is designed for. I'm sure people used them in a pinch, they are available at any auto store and have been for 50 years. Missed the part where you said to add another wire for the after market.

When using the Ford style solenoid you need to run a seperate ground pig-tail for ground. Usually a 6 inch ground run to a trans cover bolt will work. Yes, I run a Ford solenoid on my bike...with a ground pig tail. What its designed for and what actually works comes from years of real world experience. Sort of like a wrap of electrical tape around O ring style intakes before putting the band clamps on. Or indexing the heads with a 60 degree block of wood before tightening the head bolts. Anytime you want to trade old school knowledge, and not quote a book, let me know.
 
  #29  
Old 03-21-2012, 09:26 AM
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I happen to be working with Marion on "our" first Shovel. If you guys have a list of parts suppliers that would be great. Solenoid and Batt cutoff are 2 things to start. Wireing harness for $150 GREAT. Where??? 28 year old contacts are a hazard.
05rkstd said do not crank with plugs out, Why. I used to do this with cars to test starter and get some oil around. I / we have a lot to learn , appreciate you guys. I was AE in USCG /aviation Electrician and 30 yrs with GTE so have great respect for what electricity can do.
Tom J
Denton, Tx.
94 FXLR
 
  #30  
Old 03-21-2012, 10:08 AM
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[QUOTE=05rkstd;9551185]
Originally Posted by Jonas
Do you have that Ford Soliniod on your bike? I'm just trying to give the guy good advice. I would not replace a Solid State relay with a starter soliniod. The soliniod is designed to take the whole current draw from the starter. The SS starter relay's only job is to provide 12 volts to energize the Starter Soliniod. I am all for good heavy grounds, that said If the OP deciedes for some reason to use the Ford Starter Soliniod there is no ground wire, it is grounded from the brackert when bolted to the fire wall. So an extra wire bolted to the bracket then to a good ground would be a needed. Battery Box is rubber mounted so just mounting to the battery box will not be a "heavy ground". Not saying it will not work, it's just not what it is designed for. I'm sure people used them in a pinch, they are available at any auto store and have been for 50 years. Missed the part where you said to add another wire for the after market.

EDIT: I googled the Ford Soliniod thing, its a common fix. It basically just replaced the starter realy like 05rkstd described. Learn something new everyday.

When using the Ford style solenoid you need to run a seperate ground pig-tail for ground. Usually a 6 inch ground run to a trans cover bolt will work. Yes, I run a Ford solenoid on my bike...with a ground pig tail. What its designed for and what actually works comes from years of real world experience. Sort of like a wrap of electrical tape around O ring style intakes before putting the band clamps on. Or indexing the heads with a 60 degree block of wood before tightening the head bolts. Anytime you want to trade old school knowledge, and not quote a book, let me know.
EDIT: I googled the Ford Soliniod thing, its a common fix. It basically just replaced the starter realy like 05rkstd described.


I thought about the Ford Soliniod. Do you run the wire from the battery to one of the big terminals then the other to the starter? This would kinda make sense, becuase you would be taking some of the load off of the stock soliniod(as far as turning the starter motor). Does the current to drive the starter run throught the Ford Solinoid? Or do you just wire the soliniod with the wires you take off the stock realy(then I still don't get it). If you really want this guy to put it on his bike, a little info would be helpful. It can handle the starter current drawl no problem. But you would still need the stock soliniod to pull the starter bendix.

My probelm is if you have a stock bike. It worked when it was new, so why redesign it, find the problem. I have a 1984 FLHS starts every time with the stock relay, Had 1981 FLH Started with the stock relay, Had 1983 FLHS evetime with the stock relay, had a 1978 Super Glide Started with the stock relay, 85 FLH Stock Relay. I do have a book, but think about I must have to work on one of those bikes once or twice. I don't claim to be an expert, but I do claim to understand basic wiring, current drawl and relays.

A manual is consitent and a good place to work from. Advice from someone you have never met on the internet, should be considered but,researched. To make a change like you suggest on a internet post. Without research, would you do it?

"Old School Knowledge"
I have a trusted friend down the road, who owns a Indy Shop, is the local Shovel wizard. He has helped me out many times, ALWAYS GOOD advice. If he told me put a Ford Soliniod on there it will be better than new. I would do it. I do understand the "Old School" Knowledge. No offense, I just don't have exerience with you to make oneway or the other. Just sounded like on odd suggestioned that was maybe used to fix a problem on the road in a pinch. That worked. I'm around alot of bike, never seen it before.

Any Manual will not teach you only guide you. Nothing like doing and finding out all the methods and tricks. It's great to get info from someone who has learned the hardway. Like you have, can save tons of time. I don't mean to sound offensive, but I'm not going to agree with something that does sound right to me. I have been wrong before.
 

Last edited by Jonas; 03-21-2012 at 10:43 AM.


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