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Old 09-14-2011, 04:47 PM
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Default gasket sealant

I am about to begin re-assembly on my 83 Shovel top end. I am hearing mixed opinions on whether or not to use gasket sealant. In the factory shop manual it does not specify using any for re-assembling the jugs to the cases or the jugs to the heads.....it only says place gasket on between and your good to go. Now some of the old timers I've talked to say they would never re-assemble any engine without sealant on the gaskets.
Any input? I am using a set of my trusty Cometics for my project as well.
Thanks in advance
 
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:23 AM
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Get the metal wafer gaskets DO NOT USE THE PAPER ONES !! They are more $$$ yes but you'll be much happier and don't need any sealant of any kind . Best thing you can do for shovel base & rocker covers , they won't leak again .
 
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:42 AM
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With the old bikes you have a lot of expansion so a sealent may cause you more issues. Thats why you gotta let them warm up a little before taking off or you get some seeping around the base and if you use the paper ones you got a leak. Like twisted said use the metal wafer ones. If you want to use a sealent use an anarobic sealent that never hardens. Napa carries it.
 
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Old 09-17-2011, 07:21 PM
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If you do go with the paper gaskets (rocker boxes, lifter blocks, cylinder base) coat them with a layer of wheel bearing grease. Not heavy though, just a light coat. Then use factory torque specs. After warm up, re-torque. After 500 miles, retorque and check them periodically thereafter. I've had great results over the years with my shovels. But you have to check them periodically.
Never, ever use sealant or silicone sealant in areas where oil circulates. You'll wind up with a clogged oil pump and a trashed motor.
 
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Old 09-17-2011, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by AlCherry
If you do go with the paper gaskets (rocker boxes, lifter blocks, cylinder base) coat them with a layer of wheel bearing grease. Not heavy though, just a light coat. Then use factory torque specs. After warm up, re-torque. After 500 miles, retorque and check them periodically thereafter. I've had great results over the years with my shovels. But you have to check them periodically.
Never, ever use sealant or silicone sealant in areas where oil circulates. You'll wind up with a clogged oil pump and a trashed motor.
Well you found a secret nobody ever let me in on . Never got more than 18 months out of rockerbox gaskets before leaks showed up doing them dry till I went the metal ones . With the old paper ones I went real old school and used good old aluminum spray paint , couple light coats and nail them down while still tacky . That got the best life before leaks .
 
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Old 09-18-2011, 07:31 AM
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As long as we work on these old horses, there is always a solution to a problem that will jump up that we never heard about. When we do hear about a new solution, we just whack ourselves against the head and think "Why didn't I think of that"
 
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Old 09-21-2011, 05:46 PM
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I keep up with Twizted's responses on these forums cause he always seems to know the scoop, but as he even said, AlCherry, that is one great tip I never thought of either. I appreciate all the input.
I am a painter by trade and only been doing engine work for a short time......I think since my Cometic kit is the paper variety and already purchased I am going to try the wheel bearing grease method. When analyzing it it seems to make perfect sense.
I was going to ditch the paper gaskets and buy the metal kit, but since money is scarce lately I will try the grease.
Thanks to all and I'll post an update after its together and riden down the road a while.
 

Last edited by Hey Zeus; 09-21-2011 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 09-21-2011, 05:57 PM
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THANKS for the tip Alcherry! Are you familiar with this product. Been using it for years and me thinks it might do even beter than greese. Ill get a chance to try it on a paper gasket set on a friends shovel this winter.http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ket_makers.htm
 
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:18 PM
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That stuff will get a little brittle after a while I've used the commercial grade of it on problematic large pipe flanges before on big millwright jobs . It will seal a gap but it does harden up some & doesn't like movement before it gives , if your determined to go a gasket sealer try Hylomar and only then I'd use it on the nosecone & tappet block gaskets and intake orings great stuff for sealing troublesome intakes . Use paper on the rockers & base gaskets your just building a leak in , it'll just wait a year or two to happen . Drop the dime man get a set of the metal gaskets please you'll loads happier both of you .
 

Last edited by TwiZted Biker; 09-21-2011 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:25 PM
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Yea just thinking out loud and now that you mention it I have tore down Cat tranny's that had that stuff and it was hard. I'm going to try the paper and grease methid though. I do use it on my primary gasket when re-using the old one because I'm cheep. I re-used my primary gasket 5 times before I bought a new one.
 


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