yeah manifold is "egged-out" from pipe vibration. exhaust leaks on frame tube and head.

 

true biker tenacity! whatever keeps you in the wind brother!

 

Doesn't matter what you do with the port if the pipe is moving around something about pissing and fans ? Make sure the rear of the pipe where it mounts with the T bolt is solid , no movement of any kind . If the ports really wobbled out cut some brass or alum. shim stock and wrap the pipe till snug , slap some Ultra Grey on it and jam it into the port it will hold for a good while .

 

Exhaust port gets way to hot, it will burn that stuff up. You need something basically fire proof, like pipe wrap stuffed in or double up on gaskets.
These are decent and extra thick, I've got them on mine
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harle...Q5fAccessories

 

I agree with twisted biker I have used copper before and the gray silicone it worked for years till I had to do a top end but make sure after u shim that the pipe is tight no wobble.

 

Just a heads up for anybody reading these if I toss out a fix it fast tip or repair advice it's something that has run to death and proven to work on my own and a good number of other bikes thought the years , there's no " I read about... " or " I heard about this .... " kinda whack going on it's done and run hard .

 

Just got back from a 150 mile toot, and the "Ultra Grey" is ultra sweet! Thanx TwiZted!

 

TWIZTED, or anyone else---

When trying to change out my pipes after I heat wrapped them, I had to remove 3 of my exhaust port studs! 2 studs came out because the nut wouldn't come off and instead just unscrewed the whole damn stud, the other one broke off and nothing was working to get it out, including the ez-out removers. So I had to drill it out. About a 1/4 inch into it, the drill bit broke off in the stud! I learned later that it was because I was applying to much pressure and drilling at too high of speed. Then it became a huge disaster and I couldn't get through it. I tried a few different things and finally started makings some progress with some cobalt bits and then finally punched through with some new cobalt bits that were sharper. Eventually I got it all set and re-tapped the hole and put in some Heliciol replacement threads.

Now, problem is that the new hole I drilled and the new stud, didn't go in the exact same spacing and angle as the stock set, so the exhaust flange didn't fit. When I went to take the stud out and try to take the coils out and adjust the hole, the damn hole cracked, and actually broke off a small piece from the bottom of the exhaust port stud hole!

So how do I repair this? Is the exhaust port made of aluminum? JB Weld did not work.

This problem is on the rear exhaust port on the bottom rear stud hole. 2010 Sportster.

Seemed simple enough and turned into a disaster!!

 

2 ways to go if it's that furbar already , first is hit up some local indy shops or haunt craigs list & Ebay for a set or single cheap pull off used head . Lotta stock ones around cheap from guys who went big bore kits and after market heads .

Second is pull yours and have welded and the holes redone to factory specs , aside from the time labor this may be the cheaper way to go . Once you crack or chip a chuck off there is no magic fix that won't give you more grief in a short time .

Sorry to rain on you man but but at this point you gotta bite the bullet ......

 

damn thats what i was afraid of!! I was hoping there was some JB Weld type filler that would actually work. Thanks.