Okay, here goes. I ain't the best mechanic, but I get it. Except for this.
I have an '84 FLH - that's a 1340 4-speed shovel w/ belt drive, called a Special Edition Electra-Glide by HD. 1,258 made.
Ok, enough history.
Anyway, I have this issue with it being extremely hard to turn over when starting. So much so, that at one point last season, the plunger on the solenoid got stuck to the contacts, causing the starter motor to spin - while I was riding! Could hear it spinning while moving, and it contiued after I shut the bike off. Eventualy stopped a few seconds later.

Fast forward to this season - do some dioagnosis, run short of time, take it to my local shop who's mechanic has been wrenching shovels for 35 yrs. Find the washer on the solenoid plunger just about welded to the contacts - that's a lot of heat. Long story short, eventually end up replacing the following: battery, all cables (add additional ground to tranny) solenoid (new washer was steel, got a copper one from an old rebiuld kit), starter relay and starter motor.

This thing still sounds like it wants to weld itself during the initial push of the button. Let off and hit it again, it's a litter easier, but still cranks SLOW - like it had 15:1 compression for god's sake. Loosens up after about 4 revolutions and fires, but it ain't right.

Neither one of us can figure this out - starter is drawing at the upper limits of the amp specs, but it's still under. Motor spins free, spins over like no tomorrow with plugs out, if I push it to pop start it, it fires as soon as you let the clutch out, spins better if I hook another battery in series, had battery tested, it's okay. Have not tried illiminating items one at a time from the circuit while starting yet. Don't want to spend $400 on a high-torque starter because that doesn't answer the question of why, and I shouldn't need one anyway. Jugs have new rings and pistons and valves are new (by previous owner) but I doubt more than 30 over.

Any suggestions? What am I missing?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

AAARRRRGGGHHHH....

 

Do you know how long it's been since the ignition timing was checked and adjusted? Just a suggestion.

 

Pushrod adjustment comes to mind as well. Hope you get it fixed.

 

Timing done last year when new cam was put in...but maybe mechanical advance unit messed up? (on my list) and I'll add the pushrods to the list also.
Oh, I'll get it fixed....it's just a matter of time.
thx

 

I would definitely check the pushrods. Running hydraulics or solids? If they are too tight you can bend a valve real easily.

The only other thought I would have is to remove the primary cover and manually check to make sure the starter gear is properly engaging the starter ring on the clutch shell with no binding. (Just make sure to disconnect the battery positive cable first so that you do not accidentally engage it).

You do not need a high torque starter unless the motor has really been pumped up but from your description it appears to be basically stock

 

The mechanic says he checked the starter gear operation, but my plan now is to go back to the shop w/ a checklist and go through it one by one. We've spent quite a bit of time discussing things already, but gotta get to the answer one way or another...
Bike is basically stock and I appreciate the confirmation on the hi-torque unit - shouldn't need one.
I probably should have taken it apart myself, but I have two other hobby vehicles, an old house and a job that bags me for OT more times than I'd like, so I tried to save myself some time by paying the man.
So much for best laid plans...
Thanks for the tips guys.

 

Since you are going to take it back to the shop, check pushrod adjustment first; it's a simple matter of popping the covers and rolling them to the lowest point and checking the opposite. If they are hydraulics you gotta wait a couple of extra minutes for them to bleed down; with solids no waiting...

 

you said the po had new pistons and rings installed. maybe he put some hi- compression pistons that tax your starter to the max. have you checked your compression? they may also be fit on the tight side, which won't help the situation.,,

 

Since the issue seems to be the Starter pushing hard I would concentrate efforts there. 1)I've had cheap Bendix drives that bind on the spiral teeth on the starter shaft. Instead of a formed groove on their ID, they use a formed dot/point that get distorted after use for a while and binds, sometimes wreaking havoc on the spiral gear shape. 2)How bout the Copper washer inside the primary? If the starter engaged while running as you said, the washer could be worn down too thin and the face of the Bendix gear could be pushing hard against the clutch hub gear and binding. 3) A last thought is that the starter could be not aligned properly with the clutch hub gear. Bolted in with junk on the bottom edge of the starter? Tighened down at an angle toward the cluch hub or another reason why the gears themselves mesh too tightly.

Personally, I would try loosening the starter through bolts (the long small ones that hold the starter together) about 1 turn each and try starting, then try using a long extension and loosen the starter mount bolts a little, If you have one on the right end of the starter loosen that a lot. My thinking is that the binding is somewhere in the starter or gear mesh. With everything loose they find the path of least resistance and free up. Then tighten and try one by one till you find the offending area. Just my 2 cents.

andygears

 

How about checking the charging system You say new bat is it fully charged try jumping a good car bat across the existing bat terminals ( good connections please ) What is with this mechanical advance ? Was this changed over to the old point/dyna S system ?