is any body running amsoil 60 wt syn. in there old shovels. some say it's ok some say WTF. don't ever run syn. in um.amsoil say thay have a new oil out just for the older bikes...anny coments???

 

I ran Castrol Syntec 20W50 in my shovel. You don't want to run it on a "Loose" motor, one that you bought that has a gazillion miles on it. After a complete rebuild (Top and Bottom), run the synthetics. I had a 10 degree temperature drop, and I also had a 2 HP increase on the dyno.
I'm not a big fan of heavy grade oils in the Shovel. Hell, the Shovel is struggling enough just running normal, not to mention the fact someone throws 70 weight oil in it. But, everyone has an opinion about oil, and this is mine.
Another thing to consider. Where you live dictates what oil you should run. If you live where you run sleigh skids on your scoot, you probably need a different oil. I live in the deep south. Pretty much warm year round.
BTW, I was out in your area last May on vacation. My mom lived in Utopia. The whole area is well worth the trip if you haven't been there. Al

 

I use Amsoil 60 wt syn in my shovel and am happy with it.

I don't have any data proving it's superior, or visa versa, but I do know it is thinner in the cold (lower than 30F) than Valvoline dino straight 50wt (my own test), and my bike has rarely had oil temps over 200F on the dipstick gauge, even on hot days & doing the stop and go shuffle.

The one negative is it's price compared to dino's.

 

Good post, AlCherry. Sounds like sound advice with the top-to-bottom rebuild vice just changing over. I'd say more of a chance of bearing skid (if I have the term right) would be increased in the looser Shovel tolerances otherwise IMHBSO.

 

No reason why you couldn't run syn. in a Shovel but I don't see any real benefit.

 

One caveat on older bikes would be the syn's ability to dissolve the buildup on seals, and then run past the now exposed worn out seals. But after a rebuild, it'd be no different than on any other engine.

 

thanx for all the info..my 78 has been rebuilt about 2,000 miles ago. i think i will try the 60 wt. syn.

 

banderashovel: I currently have Redline synthetic in my shovel. This summer I did have 60 weight Redline, but have 15w50 for the winter, and the 60 did well in the Arizona weather. I just bought some Amsoil for the future changes, both are great oils.

My 80 cu motor does not leak a drop of oil (even with synthetic), but can not say the same about the synthetic in the transmission...too many miles on the seals, so I get a few drops, but that is what I use even with the leaks. I have the primary seal off from the motor, so I use HD Formula+ in the primary, as I like it for the clutch plates. As pococj said, the older motors will leak with synthetic. That is what I do, you will get some with other views, but I like what I do and no wivestails or witchcraft rumors give me any heart burn..

Later Amigo

Hogback

 

banderashovel

Al hit on the head, I run amsoil 20-50 ever since 4 qts of Mobile One M/C synthetic came with my S&S complete shovel engine, I switched over to amsoil at 50 miles break-in, so it was easy for me in using syn first off, if I was to use it in my old engine, I would drain my oil out like I use too, but at every 3 or 4 times I would do this, of course heat up the engine drain the oil, put back the drain plug hand tight, this is if I am changing to synthetic, rinse out and with a mechanic brush with a little kerosene wash around the walls of the tank, dump this out, take off the incoming oil feed hose at the top of the oil tank, have at least of 32 oz container (this was easier for me since I have an older large screw off cap on the top of the oil tank), but this can still be done with the side oil entry (dip-stick) of course the kero is out the drain plug in tight, start to pure in the new synthetic, fill up at least almost 3 qts, now with the incoming oil hose off and into the container, start the engine ( for the paranoid have a funnel in your dip-stick fill hole, ready to put in a little extra syn)

As the engine runs take notice of the jet black crap oil that is coming out of that hose from the pump and sump at least a qt, when you see the clean oil just shut off the engine, put back the hose, add the extra qt (if you didn’t add the extra while the crud was pumping out, your engine will survive running on 3 qts of oil : )

This is the only way to get out all of the dino oil, I don’t use this technique since I use synthetic.

BTW- I heard all the freakin horror stories about using synthetic oils in m/c, yeah it had me second guessing about using it, so I called S&S talk to the manager of the shovel engine line, I said so you really want me to use synthetic oil from the break-in ?

He said did you get the synthetic oil with your engine ? yes, well you think we would have sent it to you if you were not suppose to use it ? I thought smart ***.

Then he said what convince me of using it, you know how many thousands of dollars and engines S&S spent testing synthetics in all of our engines ? you think if there was any chance at all of damage at break in or anytime of the two year warrantee we would send it out with our engines ?

And since I have their catalog of parts and gaskets, I don’t see any “special gaskets” for synthetic or Dino oil engines !!

I use amsoil oil is every power engine I have from bike, car, generator to 2 stroke snow blower nothing leaks and I am using the synthetic that was first used in this country since the 70’s and from a company that invented it and that only makes synthetic oil which pours its profits back into to research and development.

As for using 60 wt anything unless you live in TX or AZ it’s too thick !!! forget cold mornings !!

And for the wet clutch primaries I use amsoil 10-40 m/c synthetic, look it up it runs better with clutches.

Just my 2 cents

Ride safe whichever oil one uses !

cj

 

I like to change the oil in my shovel about every 2000mi. I run Harley dino 20-50 year round(I have solid lifters). The shovel starts way better in cold weather,and runs great in the heat, no oil cooler. In my 06 FXD I run Mobil 1 20-50 and change the oil about every 5000.
If you want to go farther between changes and don't have to add a quart or two or three in 5000 mi the synthetic is fine, otherwise the extra cost of the synthetic isn't worth it.