“amfhd”

"I like to change the oil in my shovel about every 2000mi. I run Harley dino 20-50 year round(I have solid lifters). The shovel starts way better in cold weather,and runs great in the heat, no oil cooler. In my 06 FXD I run Mobil 1 20-50 and change the oil about every 5000.
If you want to go farther between changes and don't have to add a quart or two or three in 5000 mi the synthetic is fine, otherwise the extra cost of the synthetic isn't worth it."

I agree with using 20-50 anything before using 60 wt straight just MO, I seen 60 wt pour out in 20 degs and it was molasses, just made me think of what is wearing out faster starter or bearings ?

When it comes to extra cost for my ride, ever since I have been riding I try to balance it out, hoping one is correct, I believe its better to use something that will keep me safer for example I change out my tires in pairs, always, unless someone can prove to me that doesn't make sense ? for the "money" or maybe the wasted half or full season I could get out of that front tire,? no the one thing I do know and most here, the bike handles (corners etc) much better when the tires or equally are wearing, I can't imagine going into a corner or in the rain thinking, gee I am saving bucks not changing that front tire, damn I fell great : - ) .

As for the cost of synthetic, if it helps my engine last longer run cooler IMO what the hell is the cost of synthetic oil have to do with it, compared to some riders who put money for bling, some money for example in a inter-primary chrome "cover"

Take care ride safe

cj

 

BanderaShovel -

Been running Amsoil in my old machines since the early 80's. 20W-50 in my '76 FLH, until I totaled it. 20W-50 in the '59 in the colder months, and 60W in the hot of Summer. It was very tired and loose. Soon, it will be fresh and tight. So, 20W-50 will be it's normal lube after break-in. I have some 10W-40 Amsoil for that. Will use it until the end of Spring and switch.

By the way, the wife and I spent a week in Bandera back in '98. Right after Thanksgiving. God's country. Looking forward to bringing a bike back down, from N.Carolina.

Jack

 

Here's a question, which I don't know the answer too, regarding Amsoil's 20-50 and their sae 60.

Why does Amsoil recommend their sae60 as their first pick to run in pre Evolution motors and their 20-50 second?

The only reason I use their straight 60 instead of their 20-50 is because they recommend it as their first pick, otherwise my thinking is along the lines of others here.

Perhap's it flows well enough that cold start-up, while using it, would not be enough of a concern to warrant their recommending the use of their 20-50 first?

Straight 60 does have advantages in certain situations. Could it be these outweigh the benifit's of using their multi grade?

Like I said, I don't know the real answers, only speculating. I assume they have reason's for their recommendations though.

 

I'm going to chime in one more time.
No matter what, A good oil and regular changes are the key. AMSOIL, Castrol Syntec, Mobil 1, they are all great oils. I'm not going to but Syn 3 because it's made by Citgo. I choose Mobil 1 V-Twin because it's made in Texas, it's available at any walmart for $9 a quart and it's good for all three holes. I used to be a Castrol freak. Remember....good oil and regular changes.

 

I've been running Redline 20W60 in my '82 FXE for 10,000 miles now (3 changes) and I'm sold on it! Cut oil consumption by about 70%. Redline tranny oil too. No leaks at all - anywhere.

 

Be carefull when using SYNTHETIC in these older bikes, if you have any leaks now. You will have some HUGE leaks after adding SYNTHETIC, just the way it is. Even though viscosity is the same or heavier, the SYNTHETIC just seems so thin. Like water, is the best example. I run AMSOIL 20-50 SYNTHETIC in my FATBOY MOTOR, but not my 69 Shovelhead. For that i only use straight 50 w.

 

“Jeff D”
‘Here's a question, which I don't know the answer too, regarding Amsoil's 20-50 and their sae 60.
Why does Amsoil recommend their sae60 as their first pick to run in pre Evolution motors and their 20-50 second?
The only reason I use their straight 60 instead of their 20-50 is because they recommend it as their first pick, otherwise my thinking is along the lines of others here.”


Yeah I see your point ? but my point is that in 1981 when I brought my shovelhead LR it came through with HD 20-50 wt, that’s what the dealer put back in when they did the first oil change, go figure why Amsoil uses 60wt as their 1st choice when HD used 20-50wt as their first choice ? “ I even have the first 20-50 oil can with the date, mileage on the label I used when I needed the first qt, I always thought back then when I saw HD 60wt oil at the dealers it was used for loose clearness in knuckleheads : - )))) I believe in and around 1980 HD used and was pushing 20-50 wt oil, never saw the quantities (cases) of 60wt to 20-50wt sold at the dealers, never.

“Jeff D”
“Perhap's it flows well enough that cold start-up, while using it, would not be enough of a concern to warrant their recommending the use of their 20-50 first?”
“Straight 60 does have advantages in certain situations. Could it be these outweigh the benifit's of using their multi grade?”


IMO using 60wt those “certain situations” was in the middle august in TX and AZ : - )))


“Jeff D”
“Like I said, I don't know the real answers, only speculating. I assume they have reason's for their recommendations though.”

Same here on the answers, I would like to see their reasons, like I said 60wt was on its way out by the 80’s I can’t even imagine running 60wt anything in the N/E in Dec, Jan / Feb, as I said get a quart and pour it out at about 30 degs, it’s nuts IMO to use that grade in any more than the 2 hottest days of the year : - )))

Take care Jeff D, ride safe,
cj

Harley-Davidson/AMSOIL Oil Chart

http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/harley_engine_oil_chart.htm

 

I switched last year from 50w (usually Kendal) to Amsoil 20w50 in my Shovel. Didn't notice anything different, I think the biggest problem would be with oil pumps being cruewder than the the newer stuff and not being able to pump enough of the thinner oil at low R's, I want to check presure when hot to see if its up there but didn't yet. Otherwise I think Synths protect better for the Shovels because I believe they run hotter but I did do conversion for unleaded gas some years back which did lower compression too.

 

P.S.
I also sealed off my primary (per old article in Easyrider) added Barnett clutch and running separate Syn for that, works great and don't have the clutch dirtying up the motor.

 

“78fxs78”
“I switched last year from 50w (usually Kendal) to Amsoil 20w50 in my Shovel. Didn't notice anything different, I think the biggest problem would be with oil pumps being cruewder than the the newer stuff and not being able to pump enough of the thinner oil at low R's, I want to check presure when hot to see if its up there but didn't yet. Otherwise I think Synths protect better for the Shovels because I believe they run hotter but I did do conversion for unleaded gas some years back which did lower compression too.”

I not sure I understand your oil pump maybe not being able to pump the thinner oil (20-50) ? meaning I worry about oil being to thick to lube the important stuff, getting into to those tiny oil holes, in cold weather : - ))
I would be running AMSOIL 20-50 in my original shovel engine if I didn’t get a new one (instead of getting a new ride), your lucky if you just did the conversion, my ’81 top end didn’t go that much set up for leaded for that trash gas they have now and I mean the crap before the corn oil garbage : - ))

Hope you keep up the pressure at idle mine was around 10 lbs or less, 18 at high way speeds warmed up !

I always ran cool, cool meaning under 200 degs in 90 degs weather I do have a oil cooler since new, the S&S 93 believe it or not runs cooler than my HD shovel, that dose bother me somewhat not reaching operating temp, at time it runs a touch under 180, I don’t like that !

PS: AMSOIL recommends 10-40 M/C oil for the primary since it doesn’t have things in it to screw up the clutch plates, really works great.

Ride safe,
cj