Hi all,
I am having quite a time figuring out an electrical problem with my 68 Shovel.
I think I may be on to something but would really like to understand more about the electrical system on the old Harley.
A little back ground on the bike:
wiring all new {built by me}.
battery Odyssey pc 925 gel cell {new in good condition}
alternator conversion rated @ 17 amps @ 2000 rpm.
badlands turn signal module which allows all 4 signals to be on and makes the rear tuns brakes lights when applied.
led bulbs in the rear turn lights all others regular filament bulbs.
head lamp halogen H-4 100/90 watt bulb.
Mallory single fire ignition with Accel high out put coil.

my question is is this system requiring more amperage that the system can supply?

is this halogen bulb needing to much juice? I found this formula for figuring amp draw but done understand how to figure usage?

problem is Alternator is making juice when bike is running but as I ride the bike for more than a few miles the heads up voltage indicator light I have installed will tell me I'm not charging or the voltage drops with all lights on.
the bike will then pop out of the tail pipes once or twice on the test ride.
The bike will also stall as if the circuit breaker trips I turn the Ignition off and on and the bike takes off again. I usually don't even come to a stop when this happens.

Is there a way to calculate the draw I am asking from my system and compare this to the out put of my alternator?
any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated!

 

OK I think I got a handle on this
the headlamp bulb I had installed needs 11 amps
I'm installing one that needs half that.
also replacing the filament type bulbs in the front signals with LED's which only need a few mil amps.
the guy at badlands said the OEM bulbs in the blinkers need 4 amps.
I was simply not making as many amps as the system was demanding.
I haven't found what the Mallory ignition needs to run but I would guess it was shutting down and causing intermittent problems.
hopefully I have the amps trimmed down to run the bike and charge the battery.

 

Rodney, here is a link http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/ click on the technical link on the left of the page. They give a procedure for determing usuable amps from your charging system. Also determine amperage usage. This may answer your question.

 

thanks Filthy
I've visited this site and its a mess on my computer I've tied to call and now answer?
can't read the tech page with all of the code going on though out it?

 

I was told by a salesman to install the HID light system

I was curious to the amp draw now that I realize how important it is to know this stuff.

this video shows what I was wondering what I would like to know is if the initial amp spike would kill my 16 amp alternator regulator or if it would work ok?

I removed to bulbs to the front blinkers and installed a 65/55 halogen bulb and now when I start the bike after I increase the rpm with the light on I am still charging.
Next I'm going to hook up an amp gauge and check out put and draw now that I understand whats going on..

 

Rodney I would opt for the 32 amp charging system Then you can go back to the higher amp/watt bulbs Maybe the 22 amp system would work but you still have to replace the stator/ reg I think your existing rotor might be ok or maybe the rotor on a 22 amp system works for the 32 amp system ? I'll check it out

 

Rodney Just checked part numbers if you do a 32 amp system the 17 amp rotor has to be replaced A 22 amp rotor is good for both 22 and 32 amp systems

 

wish I could do that George but since I have the "generator type" 68 engine as far as I can find is the alternator conversion which puts out 17 amps.{ I was mistaken about its output as I posted earlier @ 16. }
I've tried 2 new generators since this rebuild and both have lasted about a 100 miles. I do see that the High amp draw may have been a factor in them dieing {don't tell V Twin} they have replaced both for me.
After I get my order for the front LED bulbs I can do an amp draw test, best end results are with bike running and all lights on is to have 2 amps or more left to charge the battery.
Andrew from coolbulbs.com gave me a call last night and gave me some good information on the HID lights and why to be aware of the cheaper systems offered on ebay and elsewhere on line. his systems are 315. $ @ bottom of the page
I'm considering this system but since the riding season is about over for the 68 I ma wait and see how this works out with my less watt bulb I have installed.

 

Rodney what was I thinking !! Maybe alternator shovel ?? I ran the police hi output gen in my 69 (17 amp ) All my lights were standard The bat was an FLH elect start Bat No problems However on the stroker shovel ( alt style) I did run the Badlands turn signal box I do believe the amp draw was high the mod got quite hot to the touch

 

after doing the math again {which I'm horrible at} the 100 watt head lamp was pulling 16.7 amps! that leaves nothing else for the rest of the system.
{100 watts X 2 = 200 divided by 12 = 16.7 amps}
That's nuts a motorcycle head lamp would have that large a bulb installed when new from the vendor.