If you have the old style points ignition inside the round cover with two screws on the cam cover (right side of the enigne) you are ok with the 5 ohm coil. If you aren't sure, remove the two screws and have a look. The ignition (spark plugs) should fire when the points open. But are the points set to the correct gap when on top of the ignition cam lobe?
Remove the round cover with two screws on the cam cover and take a picture of what you have and post it here.
Paul
I have been reading the other comments, but I will go ahead and respond to this, as I can knock out these photos real quick and still working on the other steps others have mentioned. I believe it to be the old style ignition points, as youtube videos seem to express their dislike for the model and suggest upgrading if possible. For the ignition coil, the more I look it up online, I think it is a 4.2 ohm coil and not a 5 ohm since it is yellow. I could definitely be wrong, but there is minimal marking except for a faint "0707" on the yellow ignition coil. Ignition Coil Under the Cam Cover
Last edited by EntirelySoulless; 09-01-2024 at 03:31 PM.
The coil looks like an older Accel Power Pulse coil wiht 4.5 ohms. As long as it good, it should work with your setup. I'm assuming it is getting gas to the carb and the acceperator pump is squirting gas in the intake.
The points don't look good, crusty and some corrosion. But it's difficult to find good points as they aren't widely used and most are cheaply made which tend to fail or just not work.
I can't tell if the points are on the ramp, but it looks like they are partly open in the picture. If they are open, use your ohm meter to check for continuity to ground on the part that has the spring and wires connected to it. If it is open (no connection to ground), turn on the ignition switch and check for power on the side with the spring and wires connect to it. If there is power then turn off the key switch and lightly run some fine sand paper across the points contact. Then be sure the points are on the cam lobe and set the opening to .015-.018 and see it will start.
The coil looks like an older Accel Power Pulse coil wiht 4.5 ohms. As long as it good, it should work with your setup. I'm assuming it is getting gas to the carb and the acceperator pump is squirting gas in the intake.
The points don't look good, crusty and some corrosion. But it's difficult to find good points as they aren't widely used and most are cheaply made which tend to fail or just not work.
I can't tell if the points are on the ramp, but it looks like they are partly open in the picture. If they are open, use your ohm meter to check for continuity to ground on the part that has the spring and wires connected to it. If it is open (no connection to ground), turn on the ignition switch and check for power on the side with the spring and wires connect to it. If there is power then turn off the key switch and lightly run some fine sand paper across the points contact. Then be sure the points are on the cam lobe and set the opening to .015-.018 and see it will start.
Paul
I will check all this in a second, but for the capacitor, I was trying to check the resistance for that and it kept coming back as nothing. I saw online that this could mean that my capacitor has gone bad, which could happen from sitting around for awhile. Do you think this could be the issue if true?
I will check all this in a second, but for the capacitor, I was trying to check the resistance for that and it kept coming back as nothing. I saw online that this could mean that my capacitor has gone bad, which could happen from sitting around for awhile. Do you think this could be the issue if true?
Get a multimeter that measures compacitance, ohming out a capcitor does you no good.
I can't tell if the points are on the ramp, but it looks like they are partly open in the picture. If they are open, use your ohm meter to check for continuity to ground on the part that has the spring and wires connected to it. If it is open (no connection to ground), turn on the ignition switch and check for power on the side with the spring and wires connect to it. If there is power then turn off the key switch and lightly run some fine sand paper across the points contact. Then be sure the points are on the cam lobe and set the opening to .015-.018 and see it will start.
Paul
I was able to put sand paper between the 2 points with no resistance, so I do not believe they are connected, but I encountered something weird. When power is off (tested with multimeter on spring/wire with red and battery for ground: 0 V) the points have continuity between them, such as if they were touching. Measuring the resistance for the capacitor, I get 4.7 Ohm, which seems to measure that it is working. When I turn power on, the continuity between the points goes away (tested same way: 12 V) and the resistance of the capacitor cannot be read. When I disconnect the ignition coil, resistance of capacitor cannot be read and I get no continuity between the 2 points.
Ignition Coil | Power | Continuity P | Cap. Res.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Disconnected | Off | False | N/A
Connected | Off | True | 4.7 Ω
Connected | On | False | N/A
Last edited by EntirelySoulless; 09-01-2024 at 04:45 PM.
Sounds like the points are shorted. I'd see if a local auto parts place has some. But that is not a commonly used part these days so you may have to fine something online.Look for points and condensor (capacitor) that are made in the USA if possible. Too many times the ones overseas are defective out of the box.
If I was gonna take a guess from looking at the pic, I would say your capacitor wire is grounding the points to the backplate...at least it looks that way.
generally speaking, capacitors are usually fubar, they used to be a constant source of breakdowns back in the day.
Get a new one and new points, take the back plate out, clean it and also behind it, where it touches the nose cone. Put points and condenser in, make sure the connectors to the points aren't touching the backplate and time it statically, check for a spark and get back to us.
The correct connectors for both the points wire and the condenser wire is a fork that sits at 90 degrees from the wires (see pic) this ensures that the wire is kept to the outside of the points area (away from the backplate and the sides) and prevents grounding or sparking.
Doing it any other way can cause a heap of problems...I know...I've seen them all Lol!
Even if it doesn't cure the problem, it will prevent problems in future and is one other thing that you can consider fixed in your search for the spark.
09-01-2024, 03:22 PM
