LOL...I can source cheap motor oil generally...Not always ATF...which don't stay In some bikes very well..
After all...what did the Mo Co put on that chain...Better question, Just what oil does that chain prefer???? IDK...Nor Care...Cheap is fine to lube a chain!!!
Finally...I'm gonna stick with the Isolation being more "Feel Good" than "mechanically superior"... But...Cannot identify Fault with Either Method!

 

My use of ATF is based on it being thinner and less likely to stick to the clutch plates, of course that might be pseudoscience, in fact it very likely is, so next oil change I will chuck whatever Mrs Spanners Nissan uses into the primary, I don't think the 25w60 with a half quart of Lucas Snake Oil that I use in the motor is really compatible with my dry clutch lol! Man that Lucas is sticky, like a Fondue at a 1970's Swingers Party....so I'm told....

 

Ok I'm ignorant--does the atf make the clutch more grabby or will it like the atf more

 

With a dry clutch it won't make any difference but is less likely to hang around if it does get on the plates.

 

So no noticeable difference except with build up-- that's what I thought
I never had luck with clutch adjustment and thought the atf would help

 

Adjusting the clutch as per the manual will help but if you want to know how I do my 4-speed (and my clutch is perfect), try this.

Assuming you have just put the clutch back together and the primary is off:

• Back off ALL the adjustment in the clutch cable
• Slacken the pressure plate adjuster lock nut and back the adjuster out so it does not touch the clutch pushrod
• Adjust the nuts that tension the springs in about 3 turns each
• Turn in the pressure plate centre adjuster until it touches the push rod, turn a bit more, back off and turn it until it touches again, then back it off 1/4 turn and lock the adjuster nut, ensuring that the centre adjuster does not move from where you adjusted it to
• Adjust the clutch cable so you have about 1/4 inch slack at the arm on the tranny and then adjust again to give 2mm free play at the handlebar lever (pivot end)
• Check there is still free play at the tranny lever
• Pull in clutch and rotate tranny or clutch (easy with a kick start, turn motor using crankshaft nut if electric start)
• Check that pressure plate has an even gap between it and the plates as it turns, adjust individual spring tensions until it does (go tighter rather than looser to do this)
• Replace primary and add whatever dinosaur juice you use to lube the primary chain (none if you still have the oiler working)
• Ride bike and see if A: The clutch slips and B: you can find neutral at a standstill
• If A then adjust spring adjustment in by half a turn each spring and test ride, repeat until it stops slipping
• If B then back off half a turn on each spring and test again until you have a good result for both A and B
• If you can't cure both A and B then you may need a Ramjett or similar retainer, or something else in your clutch is stuffed
• Be aware that the bracket, where you adjust the cable can flex and it is always a good idea to correct that (maybe weld a fillet in) if you can

This is how I do mine and my fingers and hub are not perfect but I do have a Ramjett retainer installed.

 

Hey thanks for that--next time you're in New Jersey I owe you a beer-- I'm gonna try it--
everybody talks about the ramjet-- does it make a big difference

 

The RamJett Retainer, is a godsend for Belt drive primaries..I use it in Chain Primaries too, just because I like how the Clutch works with it.. Do Not be led to the Big Fix...the Long Rollers never, ever, worked out for me. The RammJett Retainer...I will Use every Time..Once you know What it does...it really does Make Sense
Edit; Apologies tho...as I know that question was Not directed to Me.

Edit again...I do Notice Spanners has Not mentioned the Clutch Arm position...I feel that Is Critical for proper clutch action

 

No favorites here--this site is a good thing --reminds me of how it was in the 70's --everybody helped you out---I've got a few beers in the garage fridge anytime you want


good stuff
thanks

 

LOL...I got enough beer into me last weekend to last a little while.. Thanks
Do Look into the Clutch Arm Position...by The Book, Different for Ratchet Tops vs CowPie...But, effectively, If you get the Arm to Cable relationship at exactly 90 degrees (prolly Not really possible) you have done all you can do to accomplish maximum clutch disengagement (Full Throw)