Add oil or not?
#11
After all...what did the Mo Co put on that chain...Better question, Just what oil does that chain prefer???? IDK...Nor Care...Cheap is fine to lube a chain!!!
Finally...I'm gonna stick with the Isolation being more "Feel Good" than "mechanically superior"... But...Cannot identify Fault with Either Method!
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#12
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
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LOL...I can source cheap motor oil generally...Not always ATF...which don't stay In some bikes very well..
After all...what did the Mo Co put on that chain...Better question, Just what oil does that chain prefer???? IDK...Nor Care...Cheap is fine to lube a chain!!!
Finally...I'm gonna stick with the Isolation being more "Feel Good" than "mechanically superior"... But...Cannot identify Fault with Either Method!
After all...what did the Mo Co put on that chain...Better question, Just what oil does that chain prefer???? IDK...Nor Care...Cheap is fine to lube a chain!!!
Finally...I'm gonna stick with the Isolation being more "Feel Good" than "mechanically superior"... But...Cannot identify Fault with Either Method!
#14
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Location: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
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Racepres (08-27-2024)
#15
#16
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
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Assuming you have just put the clutch back together and the primary is off:
- Back off ALL the adjustment in the clutch cable
- Slacken the pressure plate adjuster lock nut and back the adjuster out so it does not touch the clutch pushrod
- Adjust the nuts that tension the springs in about 3 turns each
- Turn in the pressure plate centre adjuster until it touches the push rod, turn a bit more, back off and turn it until it touches again, then back it off 1/4 turn and lock the adjuster nut, ensuring that the centre adjuster does not move from where you adjusted it to
- Adjust the clutch cable so you have about 1/4 inch slack at the arm on the tranny and then adjust again to give 2mm free play at the handlebar lever (pivot end)
- Check there is still free play at the tranny lever
- Pull in clutch and rotate tranny or clutch (easy with a kick start, turn motor using crankshaft nut if electric start)
- Check that pressure plate has an even gap between it and the plates as it turns, adjust individual spring tensions until it does (go tighter rather than looser to do this)
- Replace primary and add whatever dinosaur juice you use to lube the primary chain (none if you still have the oiler working)
- Ride bike and see if A: The clutch slips and B: you can find neutral at a standstill
- If A then adjust spring adjustment in by half a turn each spring and test ride, repeat until it stops slipping
- If B then back off half a turn on each spring and test again until you have a good result for both A and B
- If you can't cure both A and B then you may need a Ramjett or similar retainer, or something else in your clutch is stuffed
- Be aware that the bracket, where you adjust the cable can flex and it is always a good idea to correct that (maybe weld a fillet in) if you can
Last edited by Spanners39; 08-27-2024 at 08:57 PM.
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FLHS1990 (08-30-2024)
#17
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Spanners39 (08-27-2024)
#18
Edit; Apologies tho...as I know that question was Not directed to Me.
Edit again...I do Notice Spanners has Not mentioned the Clutch Arm position...I feel that Is Critical for proper clutch action
Last edited by Racepres; 08-27-2024 at 09:09 PM.
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#19
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FLHS1990 (08-30-2024),
Spanners39 (08-28-2024)
#20
Do Look into the Clutch Arm Position...by The Book, Different for Ratchet Tops vs CowPie...But, effectively, If you get the Arm to Cable relationship at exactly 90 degrees (prolly Not really possible) you have done all you can do to accomplish maximum clutch disengagement (Full Throw)