So, I put the bike in my garage. Tomorrow I wanted to start the procedures suggested by Scrmnvtwins, but I realized something rather funny, is that I took the bike without the keys...
would you be so kind gentlemen to show me the shape if you can, that this type of keys can have? thanks in advance!
Also, i did not find the recommended type of engine oil in the repair manual: is it 20w50 oil?

 

in the meantime, I found this at the bottom of the tank with the petcock



(see photo), and I found this when I took the carburetor bowl apart, i.e. a tar story (see photo also)

 

Looks like the stock Keihin carb. Get a rebuild kit then disassemble and clean. I like to spray off reall good before disassembling. The hex brass sticking up from bowl is the accelerator pump spray nozzle, be sure you can spray through it. the little plunger going from bowl up though rubber flex seal is the accelerator pump. Make sure you can blow carb cleaner through all small orifices.

The slow jet is in the open hole. Remove the black rubber plug center of carb body where the main jet is found. Be sure jets are removed and all cavity's and orifices are cleaned out. Select you biggest flat blade screw driver that will fit in the jet holes or where the black rubber plug came out. Remove the main and slow jets. Push down with force as you break loose the main jet.

Also noticed your Float pivot pin screw has seen moisture. Moisture with aluminum creates corrosion. Be careful disassembling things so as not to break off any screws in aluminum body.

As for the tank, rinse it out with kerosene and it will be ok for now. KREEM Fuel Tank Liner makes a product to wash out rust and reline old fuel tanks.

The idle jet ins in the top center of carburetor, hidden behind a welch plug. It is adjusted and sealed at factory, your call for plug removal. If it is removed you will find your tanks make it nearly impossible to adjust without removing the right side tank. I use a short flat blade hex bit and twist between my fingers to adjust mine.

Your gonna remove the carburetor so may as well replace intake manifold rubbers while you are there. The carb flange gasket will come in your carb rebuild kit but you will also need to get intake rubber bands (2) Intake leaks make it diffficult to tune. While your in here just replace all the gaskets and rubber band seals to ensure you have good new rubber seals in all locations.

 

G'day Frank.
I see that every day at work.
Do as Scrmnvtwins said then I would take the carb to your local motorbike or lawnmower shop and ask to put it through their ultrasonic cleaner. Most shops have one (I have one myself). We charge $25AU ($12US) and takes half an hour and it will come out looking as new.
Cheers

 

Hello muskrat!

I was given a device like that I think I've never used... I should try maybe (with kerosene as a solvent?) ,i must confess this little device never inspired me.

I've been looking for parts for a while, and I don't find it easy to find the right ones. I see that I'm going to have several parts to buy and if I go through a seller from your country, the shipping costs are high. I'm going to have to optimize a little for my too meager budget!
otherwise, what did I see? I no longer have a drop of oil in the tank, when I kicked a tablespoon of oil fell to the ground, and there are traces and a sticky appearance of the fork that makes me wonder... By the way, what engine oil do you recommend?

thank you so much for your contribution and sharing!

 

G'day Frank.
There are special detergents for ultrasonic cleaners, do a search for Desal or something similar in your country. Dish washing liquid will do and heat the bath to about 75C. Do not leave it in for more than an hour and flush with clean water. Then blow dry it.
I use Penrite 20/50 mineral high zinc. https://*******.com/4k89b822
Cheers

 

I used Dawn dish soap in mine and it works great. Take the carb out when it is cleaned and blow out with compressed air, then spray carb cleaner or brake clean through all the ports and reassemble.

Paul

 

when buying parts always consult the parts manual/pdf, then when searching on the net type in that part number......... www.jwboon.com is in The Netherlands try him first
.....i never throw out an old toothbrush, they come in handy for cleaning out old carbs.....white vinegar works well on cleaning out rusty tanks , soak over night then rinse well with water final rinse out with hot water so the moisture evaporates

 

Hello gentlemen, I'm here to give you some news.

It took some time between ordering the parts and the arrival of the parts.
I installed the new gaskets on the carburetor. I put a video link that will group together the main things that I'm wondering about.

You Tube

As you can see, it seems that there is a backfire from the carburetor. The starter started once or twice but as you can hear in the video, it almost never happens, and I have to start it with the kick. Apart from that, it seems that the oil is going back into its tank.
I wanted to tell you something now, it's that I intend to repaint the frame and the swingarm because they are in a bad condition and these are parts that I will not touch again once everything is reassembled. (I think that in this case I will have a lot of disassembly and other parts to buy...). What do you think please?

by the way, at one point in the video I embedded the text "smoke", I want to clarify that this concerns the carburetor only... Thanks

 

45 degree V Twin. Front Cylinder fires then 315 degrees later the rear cylinder, then 405 degrees later the front again etc.........
4 stroke = Intake Compression Fire Exhaust. In my opinion the smoke and fire, I think you have unburnt fuel being lit off in the intake manifold by the other cylinder.

When kicking, I like to kick thru with ignition off to prime the cylinders while I feel the degrees of separation and stop when front cylinder is on compression stroke.
Then when I kick (or Used Too), I kick with enough force to get front cylinder fired and enough rotation to carry the 315 degree to get the rear cylinder fired.

If you start on the rear cylinder you have 405 degree of separation and may not have enough rotational force to get from the 1st cylinder fired to the 2nd cylinder. You will be able to feel the short and long degrees of separation while kicking. Stop after the long 405 degree and start on the compression stroke hoping the ignited fuel and your continued kick will cycle through to get that 2nd cylinder fired.

Kick with authority!