Metric ? NEVER I was born and raised on the American system. I do know how to convert metric to inch though, also have metric wrenches. I think and machine in the inch system.

 

this is what i use...the top one is a made in Australia Sidchrome 3/8" drive and the bottom on is a quality 1/2" drive for the bigger torque settings, both have imperial and metric settings and the dogbone ...yes has to be at rightangles for correct torque . we ditched the king of englands imperial system 50 years ago, but i can do both

 

Nice looking bike, and condition doesnt look too bad which 'GENERALLY ' means condition inside the engine etc will be not too bad. I have three torque wrenches of various lengths and they are calibrated in both Nm & Ft lb measurements........something like that may help you. Looks like a great project, ENJOY !

 

Normally in less than a week I should be able to take better quality photos. from memory the problem is in certain places where the rust is really present.

I will try to take my time to summarize what I need to buy and if you agree we can check together if it seems correct to you.

Thank you all for your help!

 

Here in the states they make a solution called EvapoRust. Works great but is expensive as all get out. Here's a recipe of a similar chelate-based de-rusting solution that is even faster and - more importantly - will stay active against rust 3 times longer than EvapoRust.

The ingredients account for a 1/10 of the price of 1l EvapoRust thus making it cheaper 30 times than EvapoRust.

Especially when derusting large parts like a tank or fender this is enormous.



Recipe:

for each litre of demineralized water mix in 100g of citric acid and 40g Sodium Carbonate. After the reaction of the solution has stopped add about 30ml dish soap as surfactant

The solution will turn more and more black when it gets saturated with rust. If it doesn't remove Rust anymore or takes more than 24h for it the solution is exhausted.

It's totally harmless (except maybe any hazmat that was on the part itself) and can be disposed in the toilet. It has a pH of about 4-4.5 so you don't even have to think about PPE when working with it.

This will save you a bundle on rechroming for now and allow you to spend more on engine and tranny work if needed.

 

wow i am impressed with the recipe! i really need to try this. you are a great source of information thank you all so much.

 

Do you have a miracle solution to protect the chrome from possible new oxidation?

I looked at what evaporust could do, I found it quite impressive!!!

 

i live close to the pacific ocean so what i have done, is on the chrome bits like the battery covers the gearshift cover the rear brake pedal cover etc is to smear the back of them with HMP grease. I also took off the bag rails and made up a slurry of grease and 50w oil and poured it into the inside of the tubes ,then hung them up for three months before refitting them. Will that work, maybe maybe not, only time will tell. I also have large bike covers that i put over my bikes that go down to the floor which helps a lot in keeping the salt air off them.

 

I live in a humid area, but no salty air so less corrosion. But I wax the chrome which helps by creating a layer to limit how much moisture can get in. It's not perfect, but it does help.

Paul

 

you confirm to me that we can therefore put carnauba wax on the chrome without problem? (Scrmnvtwins already advised me to use it on the painted parts).









I also have a few more photos