Yeah I'm in no rush, just want to get it right and enjoy the process. I'm shooting for next spring hopefully though. At least I'm halfway done by having everything stripped and cleaned now. Just have to inspect and refurbish what I can and do it one piece at a time if I have to.

 

^^ Good luck...This is the point when I rewire as necessary.. Always by color code...Always!!!
Last one I rewired completely...from ground Zero.. even new pins in Sockets!!!!

 

I agree...I got the clymer manual with the color wiring diagrams, then ordered an entirely new harness and rear/front terminal boards. Took me a few days to wire up the new dash stuff and get everything ready. For now its all sitting on a shelf ready to be reinstalled. Like I said, I don't want this to be a factory fresh restoration, but I also don't want to half *** it. I want it reliable and clean. If it takes years and thousands, that's what it'll take lol. I had to go with some sifton rocker shaft and arms due to one of my originals being chewed up more than I was comfortable with. But eventually I'll find a decent set of HD ones to put back. Right now though I just want to get as quality parts that I can that aren't S&S prices, to get her up and going properly. Then as time goes I'll find NOS stuff and stock pile it. Again, this is why I came here, for all the experience and suggestions in this forum.

 

^^ I must say, aftermarket manuals leave me less than luke Warm...Get the real thing..truly!

 

I am using it along with a scanned copy of the original service manual and parts list catalog. Every little bit helps lol.

 

So it was suggested to me by the machinist that since I was using bigger pistons and the 80 jugs, that I should use the spacers at the base nuts that the 1340s use. My dad just had the regular washers there to begin with. Now as I'm putting the cylinders on, I don't have the clearance on the stud to be comfortable. Do you guys think I need the spacers or would I be safe using the washers?

 

You need a full nut of threads or something is likely to give (threads), so I'd ditch those and use lock washers. The ones you have were used on later model Shovels anyway, the earlier ones used lock washers.

The first time I had a frame powder coated I was not happy with the results. The problem is the powder coaters tend to put the powder on much thicker than paint. When they do that, it usually fills in the stamped VIN on the frame neck and other frame markings than matter to some people. Which may not be a big deal in some states, but when comes to state inspections it can be a problem. So I asked the powder coaters to skip the VIN pad and then simply paint it with some enamel and blend in the edges. And, you will need to show them as well as mark every hole you don't wan't powder in or they will fill in some things that shouldn't be. When you get the frame back, you will need chase all the threads before you start to reassemble anything.

Most likely I'd look for a set of cad plated Grade 8 nuts rather than chrome ones (which will rust).

Be sure to include the swingarm, battery box, oil tank, clutch cable bracket and rear brake caliper bracket with the powder coating.

Paul