Riding a Classic Flh with the Banana Calipers Early and Late
#1
Riding a Classic Flh with the Banana Calipers Early and Late
Let me start by admitting there are upgrades to the early disc brake calipers before the evo I am well aware and researching those options but for now (the meanwhile) want to ride my Shovelhead 1980 Flh Classic for what it came with. I would like to hear from others restoring and or preserving these old sleds as they came and not out riding the banana calipers; i.e. respecting early iron limitations for what they are. This 1980 came factory equipped on the late 1980 and later square cut seal on the piston that allow the piston to roll out and roll back releasing pressure on the disc.
After the rear piston had an issue where the piston did not release I cleaned, flushed, and rebuilt the rear master to the caliper.
But I left the front alone as it seemed passable. Even added the big anti caliper spring to the front which stopped the rattle which I thought was fork springs.
Recently the front piston failed to return and I had to rock the bike back and forth to release it but it ended up breaking the left side caliper half.
After locating a new front caliper half (The later 1980 part clearly marked with an F) and new square cut o-ring
and seal and rebuilding of front brake master, making sure the tiny compensating port hole is clear I want to try the banana again.
Comments on the 1972-early 1980 spring type return piston and round o ring style banana are welcome to should anybody successfully ride with those. Whether or not they can be used.
Fab Kevin/Tokico, BDL/GMA, PM and any other options and or fabbing my own adapter bracket are different although better braking than what the AMF HD engineers had in mind. Just want to hear from anybody riding with the original brakes and help you could offer.
Pics to follow.
After the rear piston had an issue where the piston did not release I cleaned, flushed, and rebuilt the rear master to the caliper.
But I left the front alone as it seemed passable. Even added the big anti caliper spring to the front which stopped the rattle which I thought was fork springs.
Recently the front piston failed to return and I had to rock the bike back and forth to release it but it ended up breaking the left side caliper half.
After locating a new front caliper half (The later 1980 part clearly marked with an F) and new square cut o-ring
and seal and rebuilding of front brake master, making sure the tiny compensating port hole is clear I want to try the banana again.
Comments on the 1972-early 1980 spring type return piston and round o ring style banana are welcome to should anybody successfully ride with those. Whether or not they can be used.
Fab Kevin/Tokico, BDL/GMA, PM and any other options and or fabbing my own adapter bracket are different although better braking than what the AMF HD engineers had in mind. Just want to hear from anybody riding with the original brakes and help you could offer.
Pics to follow.
Last edited by FLHS1990; 06-26-2024 at 10:02 AM.
#2
My broken left half banana
Let me start by admitting their are upgrades to the early disc brake calipers before the evo I am well aware and reseaching those options but for now want to ride my 1980 Flh Classic for what it came with. I would like to hear from others restoring and or preserving these old sleds as they came and not out riding the banana calipers. This 1980 came factory equipped on the late 1980 and later square cut seal on the piston that allow the piston to roll out and roll back releasing pressure on the disc.
After the rear piston had an issue where the piston did not release I cleaned, flushed, and rebuilt the rear master to the caliper.
But I left the front alone as it seemed passable. Even added the big anti caliper spring to the front which stopped the rattle which I thought was fork springs.
Recently the front piston failed to return and I had to rock the bike back and forth to release it but it ended up breaking the left side caliper half.
After locating a new front caliper half (The later 1980 part clearly marked with an F) and new square cut o-ring
and seal and rebuilding of front brake master, making sure the tiny compensating port hole is clear I want to try the banana again.
Comments on the 1972-early 1980 spring type return piston and round o ring style banana are welcome to should anybody successfully ride with those. Whether or not they can be used.
Fab Kevin/Tokico, BDL/GMA, PM and any other options and or fabbing my own adapter bracket are different although better braking than what the AMF HD engineers had in mind. Just want to hear from anybody riding with the original brakes and help you could offer.
Pics to follow.
After the rear piston had an issue where the piston did not release I cleaned, flushed, and rebuilt the rear master to the caliper.
But I left the front alone as it seemed passable. Even added the big anti caliper spring to the front which stopped the rattle which I thought was fork springs.
Recently the front piston failed to return and I had to rock the bike back and forth to release it but it ended up breaking the left side caliper half.
After locating a new front caliper half (The later 1980 part clearly marked with an F) and new square cut o-ring
and seal and rebuilding of front brake master, making sure the tiny compensating port hole is clear I want to try the banana again.
Comments on the 1972-early 1980 spring type return piston and round o ring style banana are welcome to should anybody successfully ride with those. Whether or not they can be used.
Fab Kevin/Tokico, BDL/GMA, PM and any other options and or fabbing my own adapter bracket are different although better braking than what the AMF HD engineers had in mind. Just want to hear from anybody riding with the original brakes and help you could offer.
Pics to follow.
Last edited by FLHS1990; 06-26-2024 at 09:38 AM. Reason: More info
#3
Guesses on why casting broke?
Also once piston stuck and not retracted pretty sure rocking motorcycle to and from released piston from disc but huge anti rattle spring and rear motion cracked caliper into the two pieces.
Any other thoughts, guesses appreciated.
Disc freed and was able to limp home.
Any other thoughts, guesses appreciated.
Disc freed and was able to limp home.
Last edited by FLHS1990; 06-26-2024 at 09:44 AM. Reason: Spelling
#4
Unmolested original paint
As you can see I want to preserve an AMF Flh
with the pimples and all. Appreciate your help with no shovel indy near me. Also like to be the wrench spinner myself on the geezer glide.
Last edited by FLHS1990; 06-26-2024 at 10:21 AM. Reason: spell
#5
#6
Front banana
Dewey, that is the tips I want to hear from those who appreciate old iron parts. Thx.
#7
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FLHS1990 (06-26-2024)
#10
i have the same brakes. On a disk brake there has to be some sideways movement either from the disc ( as a lot of modern ones are) or the caliper so the pads are square to the disk on contact . . This is what's referred to as floating disc or floating caliper. So as what's been said above the caliper pins need to be lubed in some way , i use a thin smear of copper grease. it looks like the pins are dry to the point of seized. As for the anti rattle clip , i went with the advice given here and cut a piece of oil hose 3/8 i think it was, not to tight so you still have some sideways movement and placed that over the top pin between the fork leg and the caliper to stop the rattle.....PS: nice looking bike you have there, i can see why you want to preserve the factory look
Last edited by old mago; 06-26-2024 at 04:41 PM.