Originally Posted by old mago

i have the same brakes. On a disk brake there has to be some sideways movement either from the disc ( as a lot of modern ones are) or the caliper so the pads are square to the disk on contact . . This is what's referred to as floating disc or floating caliper. So as what's been said above the caliper pins need to be lubed in some way , i use a thin smear of copper grease. it looks like the pins are dry to the point of seized. As for the anti rattle clip , i went with the advice given here and cut a piece of oil hose 3/8 i think it was, not to tight so you still have some sideways movement and placed that over the top pin between the fork leg and the caliper to stop the rattle.....PS: nice looking bike you have there, i can see why you want to preserve the factory look

Originally Posted by Scheebs

I am still using the oem calipers f&r on my 78.5 80". As you, I am fanatic about oem.
I totally rebuilt both front and rear brakes 2 years ago using all new rubber from m/c to calipercs. The rear would not bleed up until I replaced the entire m/c with a new part (1 of the few non oem parts on the bike). After that all is perfect.
The front also was hard to bleed up and I needed to replace the piston (another non oem part) to get that one to bleed up. Quirks indeed!
Now my oem banana brakes are firm and stop my bike wonderfully.
With patience you should be satisfied with this old this technology. Heck! The whole bike is old technology!

Originally Posted by DeweyCrowe2

I have a banana on the back and I don’t have a problem with it. I replaced it quite a while back. The holes the pins go into were wollered out. I lubed the pins and slides with copper neversieze. It will slide the tire 🤷🏻‍♂️

Originally Posted by Joe12RK

I found that a piece of 1/2" (?) copper pipe made a great replacement sleeve when I repaired mine. Wound up switching it for a softail 4-piston caliper a year later.