Oil leak out of breather since nose cone replacement
#11
you say its new to you, is this the first time you have had it running ?...
if it is, your breather & timing maybe fine,
the rings or guides could be shot & causing the pressure,
but if running ok before the cone was removed, it's probably not that,
but when a ring or two have gone south pressurising is the outcome,..
whoever rebuilt it could have snagged a ring or someting, & may need bedding in or could just be sumped,
if sumped, it should clear up & stop puking after running it for a while, that would be down to a bad oil pump letting oil through the check ball & fill the cases when not running...
& they puke the excess out when first fired up,... I had one that sumped if ya left it for a couple of months & others say theirs sumped after a couple of days,
I fitted a new S&S pump to mine last year & not had it sump or puke since...
if it is, your breather & timing maybe fine,
the rings or guides could be shot & causing the pressure,
but if running ok before the cone was removed, it's probably not that,
but when a ring or two have gone south pressurising is the outcome,..
whoever rebuilt it could have snagged a ring or someting, & may need bedding in or could just be sumped,
if sumped, it should clear up & stop puking after running it for a while, that would be down to a bad oil pump letting oil through the check ball & fill the cases when not running...
& they puke the excess out when first fired up,... I had one that sumped if ya left it for a couple of months & others say theirs sumped after a couple of days,
I fitted a new S&S pump to mine last year & not had it sump or puke since...
#12
Cone shovel early cover side oil pinion has a weep hole drilled into the cam cover /// direct oil pressure comes out of the weep hole 1970 to 1972 when mixed with an end oil engine - sometimes the engine will knock in less then 5 minuets run time
late cone shovel has a end oil pinion and NO weep hole in the cone cover - 1973 on to 1978 but will work forward of that - completely different oiling system
they have the same part number on both covers and look exact - if and when you remove it again before you damage the engine
picture up the pinion hole has you hold it for the picture aiming to the right side so the bushings right side can be seen - do the same both covers
late cone shovel has a end oil pinion and NO weep hole in the cone cover - 1973 on to 1978 but will work forward of that - completely different oiling system
they have the same part number on both covers and look exact - if and when you remove it again before you damage the engine
picture up the pinion hole has you hold it for the picture aiming to the right side so the bushings right side can be seen - do the same both covers
#13
Thank you for that. I was trying to find out how the oil moved internally to try to figure this out. I took the old pump apart after I had the issue. Strange thing is I put the old nose comb back in and it continued to do it. Of course the engine could’ve been sumped at that time and I didn’t let it run long enough. I held the nose cones up side-by-side and they look identical. Unless there’s an internal difference. Is there anything I would need to look for to verify this is the correct one
Last edited by Rsmith3065; 02-19-2022 at 11:33 AM.
#14
Thank you for that. I was trying to find out how the oil moved internally to try to figure this out. I took the old pump apart after I had the issue. Strange thing is I put the old nose comb back in and it continued to do it. Of course the engine could’ve been sumped at that time and I didn’t let it run long enough. I held the nose cones up side-by-side and they look identical. Unless there’s an internal difference. Is there anything I would need to look for to verify this is the correct one
Thing is, the cam chest will drain when you pull the cover off but if it had leaked past the check ball in the pump for a long time while sitting, oil will eventually migrate thru the pinion bearing into the flywheel side. That takes a good while of running to clear out. If the pump shaft seal is totally bad (rare but possible) that will also let oil past the gears and directly into the separation cavity and into the cam chest.
The breather gear won't cause one to "pump" oil out the breather. Assuming it's timed correctly, fit in the case bore is usually only an issue if your running a dry clutch, closed primary. The inner end of the breather gear is where the engine sucks out the excess primary chain oil, not the pump.
So assuming the nose cone (new or old) is correct, I suspect you may have not run it long enough to clear everything out is what caused your oil pumping out the breather hose. That is not unusual at all for one that's sit for several months without being run, even with a pump that's totally fine otherwise. Of course if it does it after sitting a week, that's unacceptable
An intermittent, bubbly return oil flow to the tank is totally normal also.
#15
I should have asked earlier how long had it been sitting before all this started and whether you added any oil thru the lifter guides.
Thing is, the cam chest will drain when you pull the cover off but if it had leaked past the check ball in the pump for a long time while sitting, oil will eventually migrate thru the pinion bearing into the flywheel side. That takes a good while of running to clear out. If the pump shaft seal is totally bad (rare but possible) that will also let oil past the gears and directly into the separation cavity and into the cam chest.
The breather gear won't cause one to "pump" oil out the breather. Assuming it's timed correctly, fit in the case bore is usually only an issue if your running a dry clutch, closed primary. The inner end of the breather gear is where the engine sucks out the excess primary chain oil, not the pump.
So assuming the nose cone (new or old) is correct, I suspect you may have not run it long enough to clear everything out is what caused your oil pumping out the breather hose. That is not unusual at all for one that's sit for several months without being run, even with a pump that's totally fine otherwise. Of course if it does it after sitting a week, that's unacceptable
An intermittent, bubbly return oil flow to the tank is totally normal also.
Thing is, the cam chest will drain when you pull the cover off but if it had leaked past the check ball in the pump for a long time while sitting, oil will eventually migrate thru the pinion bearing into the flywheel side. That takes a good while of running to clear out. If the pump shaft seal is totally bad (rare but possible) that will also let oil past the gears and directly into the separation cavity and into the cam chest.
The breather gear won't cause one to "pump" oil out the breather. Assuming it's timed correctly, fit in the case bore is usually only an issue if your running a dry clutch, closed primary. The inner end of the breather gear is where the engine sucks out the excess primary chain oil, not the pump.
So assuming the nose cone (new or old) is correct, I suspect you may have not run it long enough to clear everything out is what caused your oil pumping out the breather hose. That is not unusual at all for one that's sit for several months without being run, even with a pump that's totally fine otherwise. Of course if it does it after sitting a week, that's unacceptable
An intermittent, bubbly return oil flow to the tank is totally normal also.
#16
as I asked earlier.... have you had it running before ?,
or was it the first time you have run it, if the first time it's probably just sumpped,
& from what ya said of the actual oil pump being not too good, I'd think thats the problem & the check valve ball isn't seating properly so letting oil to fill the cases,
if the pups old & as you said scared up youd be better off getting the pump changed for a new one,
it'll stop the sumping as well as make sure the motors getting a good circulation of oil,
the oilpump is the heart of any motor & if looked after will save ya thousands in repairs later on
or was it the first time you have run it, if the first time it's probably just sumpped,
& from what ya said of the actual oil pump being not too good, I'd think thats the problem & the check valve ball isn't seating properly so letting oil to fill the cases,
if the pups old & as you said scared up youd be better off getting the pump changed for a new one,
it'll stop the sumping as well as make sure the motors getting a good circulation of oil,
the oilpump is the heart of any motor & if looked after will save ya thousands in repairs later on
#18
#19
I have been riding this bike every year. I even had it fired up and rode it once before I replaced the nose cone. I was having issues at idle. Which was gradually getting worse from the year before.The bushing was so worn it was causing the centrifugal weights to make contact. It would only fire on one cylinder at idle unless I gave it a little bit of gas and was able to free it up then at times when it will go back to idle it would start doing it again. Since I have replaced the nosecone and readjusted the valves and the timing, the bike is running fantastic other than the fact it keeps puking oil. Also I can start out with a full oil tank and it’ll sit there and continue to drain the tank while it’s running.
#20
I have been riding this bike every year. I even had it fired up and rode it once before I replaced the nose cone. I was having issues at idle. Which was gradually getting worse from the year before.The bushing was so worn it was causing the centrifugal weights to make contact. It would only fire on one cylinder at idle unless I gave it a little bit of gas and was able to free it up then at times when it will go back to idle it would start doing it again. Since I have replaced the nosecone and readjusted the valves and the timing, the bike is running fantastic other than the fact it keeps puking oil. Also I can start out with a full oil tank and it’ll sit there and continue to drain the tank while it’s running.