OP, you've been riding this bike before this issue so you know how it starts cold and hot, you got a bug. Even with an intake leak they can still run although rough. Would be hard starting cold but you would have noticed that before.
Slim, but I have gotten bad gas before at the pump. Stuff a rag under the carb and pop the drain cap, see if she picked up any water during that fill up. Also pull the fuel line and put the petcock in the reserve position, drain some into a glass jar or something you can see through, look for water or crude.
Also before you try all this pop the right hand tank cap open then try to start her, sometimes the vent port in the cap can plug up and it'll pull a vacuum on you starving the bike. Had a tiny spider made a nest in mine once, drove me nuts for a couple days till I found that.
Will give that a try tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys.
Just put fresh gas in at the pump last time I had it out. maybe 5 days ago.
I was going to suggest maybe diesel put in by mistake. Had a couple times someone would bring in an ATV that they filled at home out of a five gallon can. But the can had diesel and not gasoline. But at the pump, probably not
He said in the first post that he had new plugs and spark and that it fired on starting fluid for just a second.
Is it possible the plugs are fouled or the cylinder is flooded? a fresh set of plugs is an easy thing to do if you have a set, even old plugs.
It would seem that at least one cylinder would hit on starting fluid if the timing, fire, and fuel are there. Thinking even if a valve was not opening or something that the other cylinder would fire.
If you kick it over with the plugs out, do you get any fuel spray out of the plug holes?
Checking spark with a spark plug grounded at the head is a judgement call. Is the energy sufficient to do the job under compression? Get a spark checker for your tool box and quit guessing if the ignition is up to the job. Either the Thexton THE404 spark checker, or the similar Lisle spark checker 50850 are cheap,quick, and you can adjust them for checking old lawn mower point systems or high energy setups. You will want to see a consistent spark of at least 15 KV for electronic ignitions.
Well, that thexton is marked from 5 KV to 40 KV, and they are fairly accurate when checked with an ignition scope. Cheaper and quicker too. Of coarse, a guy could get by cheaper yet and just hold on to the end of the plug wire for X ignition cycles. If you can hang on for 10 cycles, that is poor spark. If you arm goes flying in one cycle, you have good spark.
02-12-2021, 12:02 PM
