This stuff works much better for seepers, try Loctite # 545, hydraulic thread sealant, I use it on custom brake setups where sometimes the chrome on aftermarket parts isn't 100% true and you get weeping at banjo fitting or flares, seals problem case studs extremely well and acts a mild thread locker.



OP do not go strong arm on the studs trying to seal it, doesn't take much to distort and warp a washer seating area, dealt with a number of cases been hashed this way by owners.

 

Best response yet... Certainly better than I came up with!!!!
Thanks Twizted one!!!!! Well done.

 

Thanks guys,. With all do respect, why would I use google when I have the manual ? Simply identifying the fasten is not as simple as you suggest.
The first place I looked for torque specs was in the manual.

From the torque specs of the manual ......when grade of studs are unknown use values 2,5 and 8. For 5/16 studs the value spans 12 to 29........in other words HD says you are on your own on this one. What grade are these studs guys??

 

Hmmm Good question... prolly need to Identify by part number [oops hard trick] then identify specs on that part... Good Luck,

But, I would be tempted to use Google myself...
or My service book for the 1993 Shovelhead states. On Page 3-2
Crankcase Stud Nuts .... 12-15 lbs
Crankcase Bolts .... 22-26 lbs

 

Factory studs are roughly grade 5's, seen replacements which I doubt were 3. You can strip the threads off the ends or distort those studs also. Depending on the year some cases the bottom 2 studs were a larger diameter with 5/16" ends to act as alignment pins for assembling the cases.

 

My above post says '93... but of course... it is supposed to be '83.. I don't see trying to second guess the things if the Manual for that year... 1983, says what torque is for what fasteners... "Stud nuts" is the nuts on the thru bolts, and Bolts is bolts... the blind ones...
Unless someone put threaded rod in there!!!