They Match in my Parts book...assuming you have a stock, Late 1972, FLH... Early was Drum..like previous models.

Note the number is different on front vs rear caliper..they are in fact Marked from O.E. Front/Rear

 

Thanks, Racepres. Just what I needed.

 

Okay, next stupid new guy question:

What needs to go into the larger hole in the new caliper on the left. Clearly the shiny new caliper has a larger diameter hole then the stock caliper (https://www.jpcycles.com/product/244...-and-fx-models is the new caliper):


I ordered a stock bleeder valve and it is clearly too narrow for the threads on the new caliper. Do I need to buy a sleeve like this to seat the bleeder valve:
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/240...rew-repair-kit

Thanks.

Update: I hit up JPCycles tech support and the said buy the brake caliper bleeder screw repair kit to make it work.

 

Bring the new one with you to any auto parts store to match it up?

 

Hey, that makes too much sense to work...

 

You gonna sell that caliper with the broken bleeder??

 

Assuming I get the other one on and running, I don't see why not.

 

How much drag is acceptable on the front brake - 1972 FLH?
I rebuilt the caliper, installed a new brake line, and bled the system. There's still enough drag that the front wheel can be turned, wheel off the ground, with a bit of effort.
I did press the piston into the caliper straight as an arrow and had no drag at all until bleeding the air out. The piston is definitely moving in and out, and the brakes work fine. Rotor is hot as a firecracker after a 30 minute ride. Free play at the caliper pin is virtually non existent.
Thanks for advice..... this has been pretty frustrating and maybe it doesn't matter if there is a good bit of drag. My '84 shovel didn't drag hardly at all.

 

I'd say no drag is good. Maybe just a touch of scraping, but none that you could feel.

 

master cyclinder vent hole blocked ?