Thinking about a NEW rat rod build...
#73
2 years later and my builder is finally getting to the assembly! Unfortunately we're running into a snag. The pinion shaft is binding in the cam cover - we’ve installed the smallest cam gear as well as the smallest pinion gears. The cases have been line honed and pinion bushings have been line honed. The cam bushings are new as well and have been reamed.
He's saying that one option is trying to open all the bushings up to larger tolerances to get clearance and run it that way. Baisley Performance said that we could weld all the holes up and they would re-machine everything. That’s what my builder think should be done since we've gone this far and cut NO corners so far. Not sure what else to do.
He's saying that one option is trying to open all the bushings up to larger tolerances to get clearance and run it that way. Baisley Performance said that we could weld all the holes up and they would re-machine everything. That’s what my builder think should be done since we've gone this far and cut NO corners so far. Not sure what else to do.
#74
I DONT WANT TO THROW A MONKEY WRENCH INTO THE JOB -
but when we do a complete with the cover bushings - the tool i use uses the right engine case as the primary location and we ream the cam cover bushing to the right case
this makes the pinion race center and the center of the cam cover bushing the same as in a straight line
i do not know why you need the holes welded and re shot when a new cover is cheaper
but when we do a complete with the cover bushings - the tool i use uses the right engine case as the primary location and we ream the cam cover bushing to the right case
this makes the pinion race center and the center of the cam cover bushing the same as in a straight line
i do not know why you need the holes welded and re shot when a new cover is cheaper
#75
Hey John! Thanks for the reply. Was hoping to the keep the ratty patina on the original cover, so I bought another overpriced one on eBay from the same vintage and it was slightly better. Are you saying I should try a brand new cover? Most are chrome which I hate, but I can blast it if I need to. I'll try anything at this point.
Just called my builder and told him what you said. He has the Jim’s alignment tool, pinion bushing line reamer for the pinion race and a Sunnen Hone to do the cases. He asked what tool are you using? He didn't know about a tool that does the entire process in one step!? Did you make this tool?
(He was at the doctors office when I called - told him I hope they're using the Jim's prostate checker )
Just called my builder and told him what you said. He has the Jim’s alignment tool, pinion bushing line reamer for the pinion race and a Sunnen Hone to do the cases. He asked what tool are you using? He didn't know about a tool that does the entire process in one step!? Did you make this tool?
(He was at the doctors office when I called - told him I hope they're using the Jim's prostate checker )
Last edited by Spumoni; 06-14-2022 at 07:45 AM.
#76
So after nearly 3 years of pain, aggravation and great expense, we finally were able to start the bike. Everything seemed to work as it should - but I was a little concerned about the oil pressure. Since it was the first start up, we didn't let the bike get to full operating temperature - but I noticed we were getting over 50 psi (using straight 50 weight oil). I've looked through the forums and saw a lot of people are having problems with the S&S oil pumps creating too much pressure. Since we have the full S&S hydraulic kit in this motor, is it safe to assume it could use/handle a little more pressure? (This motor was build strictly for reliability - we did nothing to increase HP.)
Any input would be appreciated.
Any input would be appreciated.
The following 4 users liked this post by Spumoni:
#79
all man I hate when somebody approach me and only want to buy motor and trans. hey man don't want the rest of the bike.
#80