Received the mechanical advancer from John - definitely worth the effort. We installed it along with the new ignition and coil and the sputtering is completely gone. Not sure if it was the coil or the compu-fire, but I'm glad it's solved.

However, the bike is pinging at low RPM's under load, and especially when moving from a dead stop. (running 91 ethanol free). We were researching the advancer, and they seem to come with different springs - not sure if that could be the cause. Plugs are BPR 5ES 11. Since we turned this thing into a complete Evo, maybe I should be using different plugs?

So far, it only dieseled once after timing because we had the idle set at 2000 rpm. The following two times the bike didn't diesel. Fingers crossed that problem is gone too.

Now that the sputtering is resolved, I'm thinking I should I go back down to the .295 intermdiate, and up to 68 or 70 main jet and see what happens. (currently .031 intermediate / 66 main)

For some reason the new ignition seems to be near the end of the adjustment once it's timed correctly.

 

How you time it correctly - on the advance mark on the flywheels use a straw to locate the right location - once it is at the spot you advance center trigger and rotate the plate till the spark plug sparks then tighten

or i think you have a belt drive if so find the advance mark on flywheels front cylinder and make a timing line on the front pulley and the engine block run it and move it around at 2500 till its on the marks made

i think you have tidied it wrong turn it counter clockwise 1/4 inch see if it still pings turn the idle back to the original spot 800 / 900 rpms

 

After talking with John and my mechanic, turns out the cam that Andrews recommended is likely the main cause. It's currently an Andrews #1 cam for low compression pistons.

We will install an Andrews J cam ASAP and take it from there.

 

A ping is usually an advanced timing or just rich of peak CHT. Before going to the trouble of changing cams, I would try the richer jet or maybe bump the timing back a scosch.

 

Thanks Mark - makes sense but we already changed the cam to an Andrews J cam.

John - with this new cam the bike seems to want a smaller main. It is still breaking up just before shifting with the 66 main jet. I took it down to a 64, and the sputtering is nearly gone... it seems like a 62 would cure it, but I find it strange the bike wants such a small main, and a larger intermediate (.031)?

 

Your ring seal has not totally happened yet dont go down any more just ride it to put miles on it

a picture of the plugs is necessary for a tell about what s going on

you could have a real late model carb and the transition jet in the bottom of the carb body inside the bowl could be incorrect - it has a main jet in the carb body for the low to hi jet switch - so smaller puts the main on sooner - larger makes the main comes on later - original hole was around a 48 in a main jet number

originally it was a drilled hole from S&S but they then decided to jet it - if i find a carb with that jet i will pix it up so you see what i am talking about

 

Hi John - I posted a pic of my carb with the bowl off, and I think that's the jet (main jet air bleed) you're talking about. I switched back to the .295 intermediate, but left the main jet at 64 like you said.

Also, it seems the advance MAY be sticking which could explain the slight pinging when moving from a dead stop. The black plastic cylinder can turn left a little, but doesn't always seem to snap back. I can also move it in and out a bit - like 1/8 inch or so free play. When it's pulled out it doesn't seem to stick as much. As soon as it stops raining, I'll ride it and after the bike is off I'll see if it's stuck.

My mechanic is starting to suspect the timing mark on the S&S crank. He wants to use a degree wheel to find true TDC...

 

Today you must be patient and use one step at a time

we tune the acc pump this way - shut it off and ride it may hesitate a bit 1/2 turn on the pump each time adjusting just till it does not hesitate — when its hot now that becomes a add not a subtract — the idea in practice is you only need enough spray so it does not bog anything else brings in another issue to deal with

3 things are influencing the set up - your ignition trigger is not free to move smoothly - you might have tightened it too much OR the trigger is a taste too long run the bottom of it on a 220 paper smooth just a bit re install and snug see if its better but still lazy sand it a bit more till its free totally and installed it should have some up and down movement - check that first the movement —if that is what was doing — if not dont do that with the paper to the bottom - instead roll the paper orient a Philips screwdriver and hold the top against the handle and do the center hole a bit - then check it plastic fuzz could be in the mix making it slow to return

the bottom jet - what number is it ????

You can check TDC with a straw and it will go up and down before TDC and after TDC - what is in the middle should be a line maybe that is the TDC mark what ever it is front cylinder

i know i know but today you really need to finesse everything if you expect it to work — all the while a moron never has this sort of issue

 

Patience is the hardest part, but definitely key. I was making more than one change at a time - big mistake.

I got the .295 intermediate jet back in, and was able to get the bike to nearly not sputter with the 64 main. So I tried jumping the main up to a 68 to see what would happen, and the sputtering came right back. So I'll go back down to the 64. (Mark - the pining still happened with the larger jet by the way, so I'm not sure if that's the issue)


The pining comes back consistently when the bike gets warm (after about 10 minutes of riding). Every time I accelerate at low RPM, it pings just for a second then goes away. It's only at that first crack of the throttle under a load.

I tried backing off the timing 1/8 inch, and it really didn't help. Tried advancing 1/8 just to see, and it was way worse.

I posted a pic of the plugs after 20 minutes of riding with the .295 / 64 combo. So far that's the combo that works best.

 

3 threads down and black its the correct heat range - is the trigger moving freely even when hot

back off the acc pump 1/8 of a turn - it just might be influencing the fuel mix at start out enough to make it ping - i do not know if you tuned the acc pump at this test ride

having said that - the clutch discs if they are back and forth loose in the and on the hub < it sounds almost like a ping leaving a stop

the clutch steels if they have the ball and springs - we use the flat ones - but. I seen a belt drive so i do not know what clutch is in it

clutch noise usually is when the lever is pulled in at a stop and or just leaving a stop - tin primary bike open belt is the loudest - alloy primary not so much

To eliminate the clutch as a noise - at very low speed and the clutch engaged in first - give it a little throttle what does it do - slow speed hot

hey have an idea will be in touch