Well they included a note saying to oil the studs before installation - "they go in a little tight, but they are in specification". I'm pretty sure my mechanic will turn to the studs as apposed to freezing them and pounding them in.
I asked him fo fixed a cracked fin since we had the cylinders off...
Motor is back in frame, but there were several unexpected changes due to the new cases which are a slightly different size... for example, the foot shifter lever was hitting the case bolt, so that needed modification. The skid plate was hitting the bottom of the case, so we had to make spacers.... worse yet, the custom exhaust not longer fits, and will have to be cut and altered because the jugs are in a slightly different position....
My mechanic had fun getting his greasy hands on the new case so it wouldn't stand out too much. I have to admit it looks pretty nice for a new case.
I'd like to know what specifically is different with the case that changed the head position. Taller deck on the block, thicker engine mount tabs raising it up or the angle and how much was it off?
When I did the S&S stuff on my shovel, I had shim up the trans mount plate to get things squared up and true, everything else fit up just fine. Stock skid plates are usually off enough or bent they always need monkeying with.
I'm having some problems with this, not making sense as presented. If the motor mounts were out that far the engine fitting the frame would have been a no go, the rear head clearance on the frame down tube in particular and some the backbone would have stopped you without modding the frame. They are very close stock as it is.
Far as the jugs and exhaust that directly relates to head angles when they were installed so now I'd be real leary the intakes are square with the manifold for the carb.
I'd be breaking the head bolts loose, resquaring **** with the intake manifold then revisiting the pipe issue before you play with anything else.
I wished I could tell you exactly why it was slightly different, but the bike is assembled and back together. He did have to modify the exhaust - it's back and seems to be running ok. Now I'm back to figuring out these last couple issues. The bike breaks up at higher RPM's. Had a 70 main jet, took it to a 74 and it made no difference. Tried a 66 and it made a huge improvement, but I'm still getting a little bit of sputtering at higher RPM's. I hate to go lower than a 66, but I just may considering this is still a 74 cubic inch.
I'm also getting the occasional "dieseling" once in a while... (when I hit the kill switch, the engine still rotates once or twice). I've read this could be caused by running too rich...
Set idle to 900 rpm.. what ignition are you running.. Also what intermediate jet are you running.. Typically the intermediate jet will supply fuel up to about 2800 RPM (unless you modified the air bleed) then the main jet starts to come in on a stock S&S E.. With the proper intermediate jet your fuel mixture screw should be 1.5-1.75 turns out.
07-24-2023 | 12:15 PM
