Yes, I saw this. I'm considering it - closer for me than it is for you. Are you attending?

 

Cars and truck are past the 12 ride to and from and i am not taking a bike so maybe — the guys in my shop were considering it —- might come down to the day before and weather been to many many many Rainey week ends — the venders cover the stuff i would be looking to see —- so

 

Hi John, got the pcv valve and spring installed. This made a significant difference. Cold start went down from 60 psi to 20. Changed the sprocket seal regardless (backwards) and it seems leaks are gone. Took it for a spin on a 75° day and noticed the pressure was down about 2 or 3 pounds when I’m riding. I know it’s more about flow than psi, but should I try to do some thing to increase the pressure a little bit? It’s a complete rebuild with 120 miles running straight 50 for break in.

 

Update - the oil pressure is about 10-12 pounds after 15 minutes or riding. If I shut it off, and restart after 5 minutes, the needle barley moves from 0 unless I start riding, then back to 10 or 12.

unfortunately, I just noticed the oil is sti leaking from the main seal again. I am bewildering because I watched him meticulously install the new seal, backwards, with a Jim’s installer tool. He also cut and slightly tightened the spring on the seal. We will try re-running breather line just to make sure there are no kinks.

 

Race car auto trans front pump on trans brake is 250 psi — SO. — we back fill the seal and spring with silicone let dry 24 hours before installing it

you 4 times the strength of the rubber on the slinger

BUT something else is at play - evo engine had issues with the Timken race in the block becomes loose when your up on HP or the flywheels were way out and even loose in the engine - it leaks around the race and looks like the seal

 

I have seen a shovel also have a loose race but its very very rare

 

Oh god - I hope it's nothing that serious. Would hate for the motor to come back out after right after everything was redone, and I mean everything!

Checking to make sure there are no pinches in the breather line. Also, I found something on Google in regards to the S&S breather (which I have) that could be worth looking into regarding excess crankcase pressure:

"With a 74 inch engine I have always set them to open at 10 degrees before to TDC front and close at 65 to 75 degrees max after BDC of the front cylinder. If your within a few degrees either way on the open or closing you will be fine. the most important thing is to match the window shape, width for timing and length of the window to match the breather gear opening.

S&S breather gears are marked and timed with about 15 degrees later opening and closing spec than what I listed above. seems like they made the change about the same time they started selling 4" bore evo engines and those engines needed the later timing spec. Not sure if they still say in the instructions that come with the gear that the timing was delayed and it will do no harm to use them that way (delayed timing) in older engines."

 

Your over thinking this - the breather timing is for evacuation of the cam chest Via the cam cover baffle - and at the same time the channel the oil returns into from the engine flywheel area, and that keeps oil out of the vent hose at the same time using vacuum in that cavity - but a new engine has an over abundance of air pressure from the piston rings not being seated yet - and the air that is drawn back into the engine from having an open port to the out side - reason we use a PCV valve to stop the incoming air - the cross hatch put on the cylinder walls in the grit coarseness is also at play - nothing is the same from one shop to another.

post a picture of the seal area when you take it apart again , i would like to see what you think is a seal leak

 

Ok - as soon as it's apart I will post a picture. Only other thing we can think of is the steel case insert may be loose? Keep you posted.

 

Took it back to shop - pulled the stator, the seal is bone dry. Unfortunately it is leaking in a tiny spot between the case and the race. This is pretty bad news. I know the motor has to come back out, but Is there a fix for this?