There's also this manual type that someone is selling as a foolproof, "BSA/ Triumph anti-wet sump valve", which isn't actually it's original purpose, but yes, it'll do what it's supposed to do. Like those two large blue handled ones in the photos, it's some sort of a machine valve for fluids, with 5/16" barbed spigots, which has an electric sensor on it that you can run with a dummy light to let you know whether the ball valve is either open or closed.
I would think that you can attach the red wire to either your ignition switch, or to connect it with a 3M wire tap one of the orange constant power wires going into the front terminal block under the headlight nacelle, and the black to a grounding source of your choosing, with an indicator light tapped into the red wire.
The drag is, that this one is expensive, it's coming from Canada for ( C219.00 ) = ( 165.00 USD), plus about $10.00 shipping. I'm sure that it's equivalent is elsewhere on Ebay for a better price if you know what the name, or it's actual purpose is.
Most of us older gearheads are really creative when it comes to re-purposing various items that aren't, or weren't really meant to work on our bikes, I mean Hell, the original apehangers were sawed-off chair legs from soda fountain/malt shoppe chairs made back in the 50's, in fact, you can still buy repops of the malt shoppe table & chairs. And when you go to putting the chairs together you'll recognize the tubing right off. Back then, when custom bikes were just beginning to take off, you "appropriated" one or more of those chairs, added a snap throttle & cable from a Limey bike, mounted a return spring to your Linkert M-74, and you were down the road !
And if you were really good at fabbing up unlikely items to use on your custom bike, then there were serious auto & motorcycle wrecking yards back then. Yes, that's right, there used to be wrecking yards chock full of Harleys, Indians, Popes, Hendersons, etc. I can remember where at least 6 different yards used to be, as late as the mid-1970's where you could pick up a good rolling Knucklehead basket case for a couple of hundred bucks--and perhaps a 6-pack tossed in--and leave with all the parts to build a bike that runs 40K or better now......
My favorite for 50 years......most expensive? 1 buck......cheapest? FREE. FAILURES? None Lmfao. Usally if i use it .....never pukes...lol
they didn't get it -- that's to catch the bottom of the block when it blows out - as its not really a drip pan < it will be more like a splash and grab pan
I LOVE these kinds of fairy tails - They always have a wicked witch someplace in the mix - and THE END will never be known or talked about >> GO FIGUER
they didn't get it -- that's to catch the bottom of the block when it blows out - as its not really a drip pan < it will be more like a splash and grab pan
I LOVE these kinds of fairy tails - They always have a wicked witch someplace in the mix - and THE END will never be known or talked about >> GO FIGUER
Just a short while back there was a brand new Gerotor oil pump kit on Ebay for $675.00, and as much as I would have loved to have bought it for my Shovel, I just didn't have that kind of money. I think it was up for sale for about 3 months before someone grabbed it
I've used a hose clamp (picture the red clamp pliers you use to change a fuel filter without fuel going everywhere) for years on my Shovelhead when I park it. Yeah, I forget stuff all the time, but I just put the clamp on and then hang the ignition key on the clamp. Can't start the bike without the keys and to get the keys I have to take them from the clamp. In my head a light bulb goes off when I remember where the keys are and I remove the clamp. This trick has worked for years. One of these days I'm going to just fix the damn oil pump so it doesn't leak like a sieve after a week or two.
A suggestion, if you replace the check ball just be sure you not using some Chinese crap sold for the application because there are many grades of ball bearings. The grades indicate how perfectly smooth and round they are. The grades range from I think from 3 to around 2000, lower number the better.
An amusing thread.
Some shovels sump, and some don't. My '72 FLH sat 3 months this year 'cos I was sick. It never sumped a drop.
The concept of an in-line valve on the feed line is scary. Period. Just asking for trouble IMHO.
My WLA flattie would sump in 4 weeks, so much so that you could not get it to start. I rode it so infrequently that I finally put a valve on the tank drain, and drained the oil each time I put it up. A piece of painter's tape covered the right tank oil fill cap to remind that there was no oil in the tank. I only rode it 2 or 3 times a year before selling it.
I had a 1982 FLHC years ago that could sit 3 months without sumping. But most of the shovels I've owned over the years would sump after 3-4 weeks. Go figure.
A suggestion, if you replace the check ball just be sure you not using some Chinese crap sold for the application because there are many grades of ball bearings. The grades indicate how perfectly smooth and round they are. The grades range from I think from 3 to around 2000, lower number the better.
from what ive read youve got to re seat the check ball and its a pump off job
08-03-2019, 03:01 PM
