I thought about it and decided you were all RIGHT.
First....I lapped and reset the ball valve. Installed a new ball, and a new spring from JP cycles. Actually, I believe I may have had the wrong spring in place which may have contributed to the problem. I keep all those ball valves and springs in a parts bin drawer and there may have been some cross pollination!!!!!!
I made a simple grinder by welding a new ball valve on the end of a short piece of 1/4 in stock. It worked very well. You can actually see the ring around the ball where the valve seat was smoothed.
After that.....DID add a shut off!!!! See pics below.
I experimented with several valves. Finally, I decided the plumbing department at Lowes had exactly what i was looking for. I bought a 3/8 two way straight through gate valve from Lowes along with a couple of male to 3/8 hose connectors. It was very easy to install and it works PERFECTLY. I opted for the blue handle since it matches the blue oil filter hanging off the front of the bike.
And since unlike fine wine, my memory isn't getting better with age, I wanted something that would be pretty obvious. When the blue handle is sticking OUT, and touching my thigh, it is CLOSED. When pushed in and pointing at the pump it is OPEN.
The next two pictures show how it looks on the bike. I think it looks pretty cool and I like it. Kind of ART DECO; mechanical and functional. My old horse isn't a beaty queent anyway. All function.
BUT, I did want to give it a steam punk kind of look and tried to make a heavy equipment hydraulic valve work. The last two pics are of that valve. I did not mount it because it is kind of big and heavy. Also, I needed to go to NAPA and have them make some fittings. I am actually considering going to solid steel oil lines....If I do that I will have NAPA make me all the fittings...Maybe next year. The last two pics are to give you an idea of the "Steam Punk" look.
. Well if your looking for a "LOOK". Ditch those mickey mouse oil lines up against the exhaust( they damage motors when the collapse inside)Ditch the washing machine water valve thats on your bent line. Lmao.and that red high temp.....looks like a patch job .Sometimes just because u can......dont mean you should.... But hey its yours.... that fuel filter has burned up more bikes than guys will admit too....and i do run a metal one on other side for 500miles after paint or tank cleaning.....than its gone.
Last edited by Bumpandrun; 07-20-2019 at 11:48 AM.
. that fuel filter has burned up more bikes than guys will admit too....and i do run a metal one on other side for 500miles after paint or tank cleaning.....than its gone.
If it can get thru the in tank Screen... it can go on thru... Hell.... a scarf can go on thru....ask me how I know!!! LOL... What can I say... we was Young!!!!
On my ‘48 pan and ‘ 59 CH, I pinch off the rubber feed lines with a hose clamp if the bikes will be sitting for more than 3-4 weeks. Works well. I use a long handled clamp which is more obvious than a small shut off valve. I thought about using a shut off valve but I know for sure that the day would come when I would forget to open it.
Again, I want to thank all for the advice and pointing out my bonehead move with the vent line. I know better, but then again.......I bet you all have done something bonehead over time
I have it in now....and it works PERFECTLY. In fact, it works even better because when sitting on the bike the lever will hit my leg when closed.
The valve is now held onto the trans support with a clamp. This makes it really robust and sturdy. The valve I got is an internal 3/8 BALL valve....it opens all the way. Totally unrestricted flow when open.
The redone pump is installed and the ball valve seat and spring replaced and lapped.
I have no problem with the looks. It makes it look art deco and functional. I like it.
All the other concerns folks had are duly noted. The fuel filter from the tank is attached under the carb and does not touch anything or move. A filter has hung there without problems for over 40 years. Time tested.
Next time I pull the pipes I will try the black permatex. I've been using that orange high heat crap for a long long time also. Time tested.
Again....thanks for all the input I really enjoyed it.
Dude the Ultra gray not black, different stuff. The gray will actually blend with the aluminium after some heat so it doesn't scream cheap azz shovel owner standing out like that.
. Well if your looking for a "LOOK". Ditch those mickey mouse oil lines up against the exhaust( they damage motors when the collapse inside)Ditch the washing machine water valve thats on your bent line. Lmao.and that red high temp.....looks like a patch job .Sometimes just because u can......dont mean you should.... But hey its yours.... that fuel filter has burned up more bikes than guys will admit too....and i do run a metal one on other side for 500miles after paint or tank cleaning.....than its gone.
Those oil lines don't touch the pipe at all. The clamp assures that. And again, I just went ahead and replaced those oil lines yesterday.....but the ones on before were there since 1990!!!!!! Again, time tested. So I'm not worried about them melting.
That clamp to hold the valve was put in to because without it, the line would rest on the clutch arm. I didn't want it rubbing on anything. Also, the clamp makes the route to the pump a little straighter. It's actually a pretty straight line down to the pump. It doesn't leak.....and time will tell.
As for the LOOK, well....sheeeeeeeeeeeiiiiiiiitttt, maybe it's a little steam punk....but heck, it doesn' tleak and reminds me to open it. Function over looks!!!!
I will tell you that this bike runs really well. I put an Andrews cam in it decades ago and with the S and S super B it gets up and hauls booty. I did the valves sometime in the 80's, but the lower end has NEVER been out of the frame.
I put that oil cooler on about 1977 or so. The bike went across North Africa from Morocco to Tunisia. I was nervous about the heat and put that oil cooler on. Bike ran perfect and I had a blast. I was stationed in Italy at the time.
This old girl ain't no beauty queen!!!! She easily has several hundred thousand miles under her.
(Snip a bit) I did the valves sometime in the 80's, but the lower end has NEVER been out of the frame. This old girl ain't no beauty queen!!!! She easily has several hundred thousand miles under her.
And that's what I like - I did a top end on my old E78 Shovel at about 125,000 miles, mostly to put in some low compression pistons and hardened valve seats. Bottom end was finally ready for an overhaul at 240,000+ miles. The old girl just kept on motoring down the road.
There's an inline oil check valve that's normally sold for Limey bikes to keep oil from sumping, I use this nice little inline gadget for all four of my Harleys, (one Pan, two Shovels, and an Ironhead Sporty ), and they work beautifully.
As soon as the bike fires up the small amount of suction from the feed opens the valve & you're off, you don't have to install, some ugly looking industrial valves like the ones I saw in this thread. It's small aluminum, nicely made, with machined cooling fins so it truly looks like it belongs where it is. It's made with 3/8" spigots & comes with a pair of hose clamps. You need to prime the check valve right after installation & before starting your bike. After that you can pretty much ignore it.
I've been using them for a number of years with no issues, granted, none of my bikes really sit around long enough for me to worry about oil building up in the sump, but "better to have it & not need it", as the saying goes.
You can buy them from Steadfast Cycles on Ebay for $58.00 w/free shipping, but there are other versions on Ebay as well, so you can choose what suits you.
Just put "Triumph Anti Wet Sump Check Valve" in your Ebay search bar, ( without the quotation marks ).
07-20-2019, 11:47 AM
