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Stock foot controls for 1973 super glide

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  #21  
Old 07-02-2019, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Redrodyankneck
I would like to keep them forward but move them back to normal, I would like to see what you have in mind.
Just google shovelhead forward controls. There are many, many styles and configurations. I would find out who makes the ones on the bike now (cause I like the looks) and see what brackets they have for moving them back.
 
  #22  
Old 07-02-2019, 05:26 PM
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unless your 7 foot tall how can that be ridden. i once put forwards and running boards on my 80 lowrider worst thing i did. went back to stock more comfortable to ride
 
  #23  
Old 07-03-2019, 01:52 AM
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Thanks for the new photos. The two extra bosses I was talking about for the lower rear R-H forging are not found below the welded block; instead they are as per this photo.

Stock foot controls for 1973 super glide-yq4psrb.jpg

You say the LH side had a loop? Where do you mean? Here is the loop I meant.

Stock foot controls for 1973 super glide-kjukwlj.jpg

Those two bosses and the loop are found on early-73 frames if original. But as I mentioned above, they were left-overs from 72 and not required so they were omitted from later-73 frames.

Do I see a bracket welded to the left front downtube?

Stock foot controls for 1973 super glide-wb60ney.jpg

I wouldn’t expect to see a bracket there on a 73 frame regardless of early-73 or later-73.

I recommend you get a clear photo of the frame number.

As for the engine number, that is a very interesting picture. Do I see some markings above that number? Please get a very clear close-up of that area.

Also find out what the belly numbers are and I suggest you get clear photos of both of them.
Eric
 
  #24  
Old 07-03-2019, 07:38 AM
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SBT... I have never seen a Single Passenger footpeg bracket on only one side... using only one hole.especially on a Juice brake Frame..... only the rectangular block...as in last Picture...beginning???? I thought 1977 but... certainly Not stock on a 1973...
Also... the Horn mount seems to be an FX Only, thing but, later than '74 even... 1978 I thought...so Yes I also do Not expect to see either of those Brackets
2 1974's I have access to, do Not have a horn bracket... a '79 FX does, while a '78 FL does Not...tho the '78 is suspected of being molested..
FWIW

Edit; Maybe learn alot by seeing how well done the horn bracket is??? Most would Not add that on...
I too would be scrutinizing the Frame Numbers!!! Engine Numbers don't mean Much... to the Cops certainly, at first Blush..
 

Last edited by Racepres; 07-03-2019 at 07:44 AM.
  #25  
Old 07-03-2019, 08:12 PM
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Thanks Racepres. In my photo the single boss at the back of the R-H forging was the lower mount for a toolbox on 58–64 Pans. Even some early-65 frames had the boss drilled and tapped although 65s didn’t have a toolbox as original. The boss then remained in place (undrilled) for mid-65 thru early-73. At that stage the forging number was still 47651-58. But about mid-73 that boss was omitted, as was the other R-H boss indicated in my photo. The forging number then became 47652-73.

Re the two-hole blocks, I too think they first appeared for 1977 models: on FX-series frames as well as FL-series frames.

I agree a lot may be learned by seeing how well done the horn bracket is. I haven’t seen it welded to the left downtube as original prior to a 1977 Low Rider.
I don't think a bracket was required on the downtube of an E-Glide frame because their horn was inside the headlamp housing.

When we see the frame number we may learn more about what happened. And it will be interesting to see if all the characters in the frame number are exactly the same as in the engine number. (There appear to be some unusual things about that engine number.)

Other things to check on the frame steering head would be the forging number, forging hallmark and die number. And which side of the frame they are on.
Eric
 
  #26  
Old 07-03-2019, 08:32 PM
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1- the blocks for the passenger pegs were retrofitted onto a lot of bikes, once the seats went frame mounted people needed a solution for the passenger. I would not assume the frame is NOT 1973 just by the blocks being there.

2- A lot of meat on those forwards, I wonder if you could cut them back couple of inches and drill new holes. Looks doable form here. Then modify the rods as needed.

Good luck
 
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  #27  
Old 07-04-2019, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Architect
I would not assume the frame is NOT 1973 just by the blocks being there.
Agreed. But if the bracket on the left downtube is original then it too presents a problem as far as 1973 is concerned.

A clear photo of the frame number would help, along with the forging ID on the steering head.
Eric
 
  #28  
Old 07-04-2019, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Speeding Big Twin
Agreed. But if the bracket on the left downtube is original then it too presents a problem as far as 1973 is concerned.

A clear photo of the frame number would help, along with the forging ID on the steering head.
Eric
The bike is being sold by the owners widow so I'm getting what she remembers about her late husbands obsession. She does remember that the frame was powder coated so that would mean the bike was taken down to it's frame. He had some friends that all rode shovels so I'm thinking that this would have been the time that the frame was modified. Just guessing.

What in particular is unusual about the way the engine number is showing on the case?
 
  #29  
Old 07-04-2019, 06:47 AM
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I dug around on the net and found some original case numbers, the ones I posted don't look quite right. Thanks for the heads up.
 
  #30  
Old 07-04-2019, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Architect
1- the blocks for the passenger pegs were retrofitted onto a lot of bikes, once the seats went frame mounted people needed a solution for the passenger. I would not assume the frame is NOT 1973 just by the blocks being there.

2- A lot of meat on those forwards, I wonder if you could cut them back couple of inches and drill new holes. Looks doable form here. Then modify the rods as needed.

Good luck
I was thinking the same thing, cut them back and redrill for the attachment hardware. I would just has to shorten the trans linkage.I'm still on the fence about this bike after taking a close look at the way the engine number has been stamped. I started a new thread for that.
 


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