Stock foot controls for 1973 super glide
#11
In your photo below, notice the chrome passenger footpeg bracket is bolted to a two-hole rectangular block welded to the back of the frame forging.
You’ll see the same thing on the other side of the frame. But if these two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame is not 1973 because these blocks didn’t appear until 1977 models.
What year and model is the bike registered as? What is the VIN on the frame? Does the frame VIN look authentic and does it match the engine number?
Next pictures demonstrate the standard foot controls on a 73 Super Glide. The bike was featured in Cycle magazine in January 1973.
Eric
You’ll see the same thing on the other side of the frame. But if these two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame is not 1973 because these blocks didn’t appear until 1977 models.
What year and model is the bike registered as? What is the VIN on the frame? Does the frame VIN look authentic and does it match the engine number?
Next pictures demonstrate the standard foot controls on a 73 Super Glide. The bike was featured in Cycle magazine in January 1973.
Eric
#12
In your photo below, notice the chrome passenger footpeg bracket is bolted to a two-hole rectangular block welded to the back of the frame forging.
You’ll see the same thing on the other side of the frame. But if these two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame is not 1973 because these blocks didn’t appear until 1977 models.
What year and model is the bike registered as? What is the VIN on the frame? Does the frame VIN look authentic and does it match the engine number?
Next pictures demonstrate the standard foot controls on a 73 Super Glide. The bike was featured in Cycle magazine in January 1973.
Eric
You’ll see the same thing on the other side of the frame. But if these two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame is not 1973 because these blocks didn’t appear until 1977 models.
What year and model is the bike registered as? What is the VIN on the frame? Does the frame VIN look authentic and does it match the engine number?
Next pictures demonstrate the standard foot controls on a 73 Super Glide. The bike was featured in Cycle magazine in January 1973.
Eric
I never did trust those Import biased magazines either... as that sure looks like a 1972 FX to Me...
I already showed ya what a 1973 looks like!!!!
Tho... the point about the passenger peg "lugs" is absolutely Valid... Were Not there until approx 1977... and that is sometimes debated...
Cannot tell from the current phot tho...as I have put frame clamps in exactly that location for passenger pegs...
Last edited by Racepres; 07-01-2019 at 12:28 AM.
#13
The bike in Cycle magazine is not a 72. It is a 73. Below is the front cover of the magazine. We discussed this 73 from the magazine earlier this year.
Eric
Attachment 618378
Eric
Attachment 618378
#14
I am not looking for an original, I should have stated that to begin with. Thanks for the pic.
Anyway I looked at the bike today and it is beautiful and that is a subjective thing. SS carb, Cold start up with 1st crank, good oil pressure, no smoke. Inside of tank was clean metal. PM brakes pads and rotors were new. Springer front end was spotless. I thought that the bike was impressive
Anyway I looked at the bike today and it is beautiful and that is a subjective thing. SS carb, Cold start up with 1st crank, good oil pressure, no smoke. Inside of tank was clean metal. PM brakes pads and rotors were new. Springer front end was spotless. I thought that the bike was impressive
#15
I would like to keep them forward but move them back to normal, I would like to see what you have in mind.
#16
Thanks, I think it was modified nicely . Based on you estimation of overall cost I think the asking price is fair.
#17
In your photo below, notice the chrome passenger footpeg bracket is bolted to a two-hole rectangular block welded to the back of the frame forging.
You’ll see the same thing on the other side of the frame. But if these two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame is not 1973 because these blocks didn’t appear until 1977 models.
What year and model is the bike registered as? What is the VIN on the frame? Does the frame VIN look authentic and does it match the engine number?
Next pictures demonstrate the standard foot controls on a 73 Super Glide. The bike was featured in Cycle magazine in January 1973.
Eric
You’ll see the same thing on the other side of the frame. But if these two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame is not 1973 because these blocks didn’t appear until 1977 models.
What year and model is the bike registered as? What is the VIN on the frame? Does the frame VIN look authentic and does it match the engine number?
Next pictures demonstrate the standard foot controls on a 73 Super Glide. The bike was featured in Cycle magazine in January 1973.
Eric
#18
#19
Sounds good but what does the frame VIN look like? Is it consistent with factory stamping for 1973? Is it within normal production range for 1973? And what does the engine number look like?
As I mentioned above, if the two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame isn’t 1973. But it’s hard to tell from the photos if the blocks are original or not. Also, early-73 frames are not exactly the same as later-73 but it’s hard to say which type that is, if it is 73. Early-73s had at least two more bosses on the lower rear R-H forging and on the left side there was a loop for the rear brake line. These were left-overs from 72 but they were not required so they were omitted from later-73 frames. I can’t see these three things on that frame but they could have been removed by anybody if the frame is early-73. Anyway, that brings us back to whether or not the frame VIN and the engine number appear authentic. If you’re not sure then you could post partial photos of them but maybe ask the seller if it is okay to do so.
What are the belly numbers? If you’re unfamiliar with them they should be stamped under each crankcase half near the outer edges and somewhat toward the front. If the engine is 73 they may be formatted similar to the following example: 173-1234. But even if they are formatted as per 1973 models, the belly numbers consist of certain types of characters if factory-stamped. Photos?
Are any characters stamped on top of the cases near the rear engine mounting bolts? Photos?
Eric
As I mentioned above, if the two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame isn’t 1973. But it’s hard to tell from the photos if the blocks are original or not. Also, early-73 frames are not exactly the same as later-73 but it’s hard to say which type that is, if it is 73. Early-73s had at least two more bosses on the lower rear R-H forging and on the left side there was a loop for the rear brake line. These were left-overs from 72 but they were not required so they were omitted from later-73 frames. I can’t see these three things on that frame but they could have been removed by anybody if the frame is early-73. Anyway, that brings us back to whether or not the frame VIN and the engine number appear authentic. If you’re not sure then you could post partial photos of them but maybe ask the seller if it is okay to do so.
What are the belly numbers? If you’re unfamiliar with them they should be stamped under each crankcase half near the outer edges and somewhat toward the front. If the engine is 73 they may be formatted similar to the following example: 173-1234. But even if they are formatted as per 1973 models, the belly numbers consist of certain types of characters if factory-stamped. Photos?
Are any characters stamped on top of the cases near the rear engine mounting bolts? Photos?
Eric
#20
[QUOTE=Speeding Big Twin;18370527]Sounds good but what does the frame VIN look like? Is it consistent with factory stamping for 1973? Is it within normal production range for 1973? And what does the engine number look like?
As I mentioned above, if the two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame isn’t 1973. But it’s hard to tell from the photos if the blocks are original or not. Also, early-73 frames are not exactly the same as later-73 but it’s hard to say which type that is, if it is 73. Early-73s had at least two more bosses on the lower rear R-H forging and on the left side there was a loop for the rear brake line. These were left-overs from 72 but they were not required so they were omitted from later-73 frames. I can’t see these three things on that frame but they could have been removed by anybody if the frame is early-73. Anyway, that brings us back to whether or not the frame VIN and the engine number appear authentic. If you’re not sure then you could post partial photos of them but maybe ask the seller if it is okay to do so.
What are the belly numbers? If you’re unfamiliar with them they should be stamped under each crankcase half near the outer edges and somewhat toward the front. If the engine is 73 they may be formatted similar to the following example: 173-1234. But even if they are formatted as per 1973 models, the belly numbers consist of certain types of characters if factory-stamped. Photos?
Are any characters stamped on top of the cases near the rear engine mounting bolts? Photos?
Eric[/QUOTE
I checked the pics that I have and it appears to be an early 73. The extra bosses are there on the RH side below the welded block. The LH side had a loop that I did notice when seeing the bike.
Opposite from what you said. I only have a pic of the RH case engine number and it is on top of the case towards the front as you can see. I don't have a pic of the frame number on the steering head.
As I mentioned above, if the two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame isn’t 1973. But it’s hard to tell from the photos if the blocks are original or not. Also, early-73 frames are not exactly the same as later-73 but it’s hard to say which type that is, if it is 73. Early-73s had at least two more bosses on the lower rear R-H forging and on the left side there was a loop for the rear brake line. These were left-overs from 72 but they were not required so they were omitted from later-73 frames. I can’t see these three things on that frame but they could have been removed by anybody if the frame is early-73. Anyway, that brings us back to whether or not the frame VIN and the engine number appear authentic. If you’re not sure then you could post partial photos of them but maybe ask the seller if it is okay to do so.
What are the belly numbers? If you’re unfamiliar with them they should be stamped under each crankcase half near the outer edges and somewhat toward the front. If the engine is 73 they may be formatted similar to the following example: 173-1234. But even if they are formatted as per 1973 models, the belly numbers consist of certain types of characters if factory-stamped. Photos?
Are any characters stamped on top of the cases near the rear engine mounting bolts? Photos?
Eric[/QUOTE
I checked the pics that I have and it appears to be an early 73. The extra bosses are there on the RH side below the welded block. The LH side had a loop that I did notice when seeing the bike.
Opposite from what you said. I only have a pic of the RH case engine number and it is on top of the case towards the front as you can see. I don't have a pic of the frame number on the steering head.