In your photo below, notice the chrome passenger footpeg bracket is bolted to a two-hole rectangular block welded to the back of the frame forging.




You’ll see the same thing on the other side of the frame. But if these two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame is not 1973 because these blocks didn’t appear until 1977 models.

What year and model is the bike registered as? What is the VIN on the frame? Does the frame VIN look authentic and does it match the engine number?

Next pictures demonstrate the standard foot controls on a 73 Super Glide. The bike was featured in Cycle magazine in January 1973.
Eric

 

I never did trust those Import biased magazines either... as that sure looks like a 1972 FX to Me...
I already showed ya what a 1973 looks like!!!!

Tho... the point about the passenger peg "lugs" is absolutely Valid... Were Not there until approx 1977... and that is sometimes debated...
Cannot tell from the current phot tho...as I have put frame clamps in exactly that location for passenger pegs...

 

The bike in Cycle magazine is not a 72. It is a 73. Below is the front cover of the magazine. We discussed this 73 from the magazine earlier this year.
Eric

Attachment 618378

 

I'm with you....Nice looking bike. Do you want to stick with forward controls or do you want to go with stock mids? If you're happy with forwards, there's a lot of ways you can bring them back to "normal" forward control position. Those you have now are WAY out there.

 

I would like to keep them forward but move them back to normal, I would like to see what you have in mind.

 

Thanks, I think it was modified nicely . Based on you estimation of overall cost I think the asking price is fair.

 

Is the VIN on the down tube of the frame? I'll call the seller and get a pic, I was told that the engine and frame match. Thanks for the heads up.

 

I just got confirmation that the frame is a 1973. The woman who is selling the bike had no idea where to look so I coached her to the location on the steering head, the numbers she read out to me on the phone matched the pic I have of the engine. All is good

 

Sounds good but what does the frame VIN look like? Is it consistent with factory stamping for 1973? Is it within normal production range for 1973? And what does the engine number look like?

As I mentioned above, if the two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame isn’t 1973. But it’s hard to tell from the photos if the blocks are original or not. Also, early-73 frames are not exactly the same as later-73 but it’s hard to say which type that is, if it is 73. Early-73s had at least two more bosses on the lower rear R-H forging and on the left side there was a loop for the rear brake line. These were left-overs from 72 but they were not required so they were omitted from later-73 frames. I can’t see these three things on that frame but they could have been removed by anybody if the frame is early-73. Anyway, that brings us back to whether or not the frame VIN and the engine number appear authentic. If you’re not sure then you could post partial photos of them but maybe ask the seller if it is okay to do so.

What are the belly numbers? If you’re unfamiliar with them they should be stamped under each crankcase half near the outer edges and somewhat toward the front. If the engine is 73 they may be formatted similar to the following example: 173-1234. But even if they are formatted as per 1973 models, the belly numbers consist of certain types of characters if factory-stamped. Photos?

Are any characters stamped on top of the cases near the rear engine mounting bolts? Photos?
Eric

 

[QUOTE=Speeding Big Twin;18370527]Sounds good but what does the frame VIN look like? Is it consistent with factory stamping for 1973? Is it within normal production range for 1973? And what does the engine number look like?

As I mentioned above, if the two-hole blocks welded to the frame are original then the frame isn’t 1973. But it’s hard to tell from the photos if the blocks are original or not. Also, early-73 frames are not exactly the same as later-73 but it’s hard to say which type that is, if it is 73. Early-73s had at least two more bosses on the lower rear R-H forging and on the left side there was a loop for the rear brake line. These were left-overs from 72 but they were not required so they were omitted from later-73 frames. I can’t see these three things on that frame but they could have been removed by anybody if the frame is early-73. Anyway, that brings us back to whether or not the frame VIN and the engine number appear authentic. If you’re not sure then you could post partial photos of them but maybe ask the seller if it is okay to do so.

What are the belly numbers? If you’re unfamiliar with them they should be stamped under each crankcase half near the outer edges and somewhat toward the front. If the engine is 73 they may be formatted similar to the following example: 173-1234. But even if they are formatted as per 1973 models, the belly numbers consist of certain types of characters if factory-stamped. Photos?

Are any characters stamped on top of the cases near the rear engine mounting bolts? Photos?
Eric[/QUOTE

I checked the pics that I have and it appears to be an early 73. The extra bosses are there on the RH side below the welded block. The LH side had a loop that I did notice when seeing the bike.
Opposite from what you said. I only have a pic of the RH case engine number and it is on top of the case towards the front as you can see. I don't have a pic of the frame number on the steering head.