My guess is that yer grounding something... just like the points do when closed!!!!
Why not just leave the advance mark in the window and Hold the advance unit at full advance with something non-metallic... like Fingers!!!
When the points plate is correct...advance mark in window.. move advance to "full" and the points break!!!
Hell.... look at it... this ain't rocket science...You can visually see the points open!!!
BTW ensure you are on the front cylinder Compression stroke... Vital!!!!!
Just a question: how long has it been since the engine last ran? How long does it take an advance unit to rust untill it's stuck?
Long enough for intake seals to crack?
Last edited by shovelsrule; 07-20-2019 at 03:43 PM.
Just a question: how long has it been since the engine last ran? How long does it take an advance unit to rust untill it's stuck?
Long enough for intake seals to crack?
Mechanical advance mechanism cannot be checked too often... and disassembled/inspected/lubed Minimum once a year... more in rough conditions...
It ain't that hard to make a quick twist of the damn thing once in awhile, ensure it returns with authority.., and again Maintenance at least once a year...
So now I know that I can simply grab the cam lobe and advance the weights (with the capacitor moved out of the way) - another step on the path to enlightenment...
But the points don't open on the advance mark, so something is up.
If I move the crank forward to the TDC mark, the points open.
I took the entire advance unit out and cleaned/oiled, weights are working just fine and snap back.
rotate the engine around with a straw in the front plug hole and ( at what you think is the front cylinder advance mark ) - THEN - continue to turn the engine counterclockwise and see if the straw continues to move up < you would be correct at that point turn it back to advance mark
now blow compressed air into the rear spark plug hole and see if you hear air escaping OR did the engine turn ( move )
let me know at this point = we are trying to confirm the correct mark for advance - and if you have the engine in timing on the front cylinder - this will tell us
if all of this is correct now check it for the point braking as full distributor advance and on timing
So now I know that I can simply grab the cam lobe and advance the weights (with the capacitor moved out of the way) - another step on the path to enlightenment...
But the points don't open on the advance mark, so something is up.
If I move the crank forward to the TDC mark, the points open.
I took the entire advance unit out and cleaned/oiled, weights are working just fine and snap back.
Sounds like you may be on the rear cylinder compression stroke...
Roll engine over, and either stick yer finger in the sparkplug hole, or Watch the front intake pushrod [up then starting down] then that tiny bit to the adv. mark...
Now if the points plate is in the correct position...the points should just [barely] open when the Mechanical advance is at Full...
Have seen a cheap set of points wear out the pad that rides on the cam so that the points would not open. Used to be easy to get good quality, not so much now. Blue Streak were good, but don't know about their current product.
Something else, too, as long as all the parts are known to be good - Correctly install everything. Set backing plate to mid position. Start engine. Advance the plate slightly, say to the position that produces a somewhat higher RPM. Cinch it all down & call it good. Or use a timing light if you want to make any final adjustments.
Pulled the points cover off and the point plate and advance weights for routine maintenance. Found that the weights were not providing advance as they were frozen on their pivots. A couple shots of Seafoam penetrant and the weights were working fine. Followed that up with a drop of synthetic 30 weight on the pivots.
Slide the advance mechanism back on, making sure the pin is on the slot on the shaft.
Then put the cam mechanism on, matching the notched side with the pin on the advance mechanism.
Tightened the retainer bolt and made sure the points cam moved easily to advance the points plate.
Replaced the points plate, pulled some 2000 grit wet/dry through the points to clean them.
Checked the condensor and switched ignition wire connections.
Rotated the motor until the points arm was on the highest point of the points cam lobe.
Set the gap at .020 since I didn't have feeler for .18
Tightened the points arm and re-checked the gap.
Connected the test light to the points lead and ground.
Pulled the intake valve pushrod cover retainer on the front cylinder, the one next to the carb intake.
Rotated the engine with the kicker until the intake valve raised then lowered.
Finished rotating the motor in the correct direction with rear tire and trans in 4th until the backside of the small flywheel TDC dot was positioned at the backside of the timing window.
Rotating the points plate, the test light stays out no matter how far it is moved in either direction.
Manually lifting the points arm causes the light to come on.
Rotating the motor causes the light to come on/off.
Taken it apart 3 times and get the same results.
Hence the WTF in the in the heading. Has to be something simple, but clearly above my skill level.
Looking for some help from the brethren.
Just went through the same nightmare. Couldn't get it timed for nothing. Then I took points backing plate off and found springs all wrapped in knots. Changed springs, worked great...for a minute. The springs were catching on the screw that held the points in. Wired weights in so they couldnt open, re-checked timing and it fired right off, ran well at idle and low Rev. Putting in electronic ignition tomorrow. I'm done with points.
07-20-2019 | 01:34 PM
