I usually drill a hole in the points plate, so i can use a scratch awl and manually open the weights all the way.

 

????
Some Odd **** going on... If ya remove the Condenser you can turn the Rotor with your Fingers!!!!
Remember to put the condenser back!!!!!

 

Just timed a '69 yesterday in a half hour waiting for the wife to go for a ride. I made a tool from a cheap open end wrench made to adjust bi fold doors. In your post you mentioned the light going on. The test light should be on when advance in against the full advance stop. When you start to release the advance, the light should go out just as the points begin to open. You're there. Tighten timer down, replace plugs and go.

 

Rusty,
**** can the points and condenser... and buy the electronic ignition of your choice. Then set it and forget it.

The old myth of electronic ignitions are not reliable... is about the same as chains over belts.

Beez.

 

how can you "set" the timing when the mark is on the left, but the points are on the right? i have a similar issue very hard to start and runs poorly when it runs - (note) motor completely torn down painted

 

You tore the engine down just for Paint?????
Anyway
Once the mark is in the window... it is not necessary to be looking in the "window" anymore..Points are the very most Simple to set up Ever... Once you have done it the right way... EI??? Timing lights??? [I don't own one yet my Dragbike was consistently in the winners circle].. No EI harley I own has ever been any Problem... And I basically tune like I did my Dragbikes... ie, a Bit crude, and some trial and error... as I do Not believe all Harleys are Identical when it comes to the Timing "sweet spot"

Maybe if all are Bone Stock from Factory... that Timing may be All Identical for Optimum... But.... I bet Not!!! I started racing in the Box [absolutely] Stock class...

 

yes, I tore it down to the frame to repaint clean up, it ran fine before I tore it down. now I have issues, hind site is should have left it alone. But I have to fix my problem and am lost on how to correctly get it running

 

Install a new S&S, Dynatec or Ultima and loose the points.

 

Start over - start your own post with all the info about what you have, and what has been done - carb type ignition type and some pictures, as you never know what some one will spot in a photo you had not - year of machine all helpful info

 

Had a chance to re-visit the points today.

Double checked the gap = dead on at .018

Double checked TDC with a wooden dowel in the front plug hole - TDC is the small dot on my '75

Went back to the static TDC setup with the small dot on the window









I'm able to rotate the points plate and can set the points so that the light just comes on / points open at TDC.









Then I attempt to set the points using the advance mark









I have a hole drilled in the points plate that allows me to fully advance the weights.

I rotate the points plate through its full range of motion forward and backward, holding the weights in full advance, but no dice re points opening.

Light stays out.

Bit of a mystery for a neophyte...

I think I'll move to electronic ignition. But for the moment I'd still like to solve the puzzle of the advanced timing mark method and have a rideable machine.