Hi gang,
So I recently bought a 1980 FXEF Superglide Fatbob that is in otherwise pretty nice shape. It was recently completely rebuilt before he sold it to me and one thing he told me the mechanic did was to block off the shared oil galley between the crankcase and the primary chain. He said to just open up the primary inspection cover about every 500 miles or so and squirt in some regular chain lube to keep the primary lubed up. However, I've noticed that this has made it very difficult to get the bike into neutral under 20 miles an hour. I'm guessing that the old wet clutch pack is missing the lubrication it enjoyed with the crankcase oil going through there on a regular basis (at least this is how I've been told these operate. This is my first Shovel. I've had an old Ironhead though). So should I just go ahead and undo the primary galley block? Or I've been thinking about possibly going to a dry clutch pack, thinking that would free up the stickyness in the shifting. If I did that, what shoud I do about my primary chain? Would I have to convert to a belt? Are there other components in there I would have to convert? Also, my clutch lever is VERY heavy, and I've got some killer arthritis in my left thumb, so any help getting this thing into neutral as fast as possible would be great. Or a recommendation on a dry clutch brand that has a lighter pull on the lever. Anyway, that's my concern. Any insight you guys could lend would be great. Thanks.

P.S. On a side note, I'm also trying to do this on a shoestring budget. I haven't even finished paying for the bike yet, and I have other gas-fueled projects that have to happen this summer as well. So I have that to consider as well. So I'm trying to avoid dropping a couple thousand in clutch mods into the shovel if I can. Or at least put it off until next winter. ^_^

Again, thanks.

 

It would be wise for you to confirm that the oil supply, breather and return lines from the engine oil system are, in fact, disconnected from the primary case.
The fitting where the oil was fed to the primary is a good place to put a small vent hose to keep pressure from building in the primary case. Just run it over the top of the transmission and down the back side of it by the rear tire.
Make sure the breather fitting and oil return fitting are sealed off, usually by removing the fitting and installing a plug (both should be 1/8" pipe thread).
Make sure you have the drain plug for the primary case in place with a good gasket.
Then with the derby cover off (the cover over the clutch) and the bike standing straight up you pour whatever oil you will be using into the primary case until the oil level is just starting to get into the clutch shell.
That way the clutch shell will throw the oil around in there to keep the chain and sprockets well lubed.
I use Ford "Type F" ATF but others use what they like.
As far as the clutch goes you can try to clean up what you have and see how it works.
Make sure the fiber and steel plates are flat.
The hard-to-pull clutch lever could be due to the cable needing lubrication or replacement.
If you going to replace the clutch, I'd look at what Barnett has to offer. They make good stuff but there are several manufacturers to pick from.
Make sure it is compatible with your new primary set up and the oil you are using in there.
The clutch manufacturer should have recommendations for the oil.

 

Well if it was set up as a stand alone primary, the PO would have done this...

 

Very little ... if any oil should actually get into the clutch... on a Sealed [isolated] primary... do Not add more oil than is necessary to get just onto the chain... with the stock system... very little oil should ever be in the Primary...
Sprying lube ino [onto] the chain is a Poorer idea than I have heard in a very long time... if that is how the primary had been run for any amount od time.... Take it apart... replace the Primary chain.. then start over and either isolate properly...or go back stock... it really is a pretty good way to go... and bikes have run Many thousands of miles with that stock system... i just "Feels" wrong!!

 

i would connect stock oil supply but firstly replace clutch cable and inspect plates