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PanShovelution build

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  #11  
Old 09-01-2018, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by biginchhustler
also I would have the 2 halves assembled and decked - probably not flat -- and I would have the pinion race to timkin checked to see if its aligned - also check to see if your engine mount surfaces are flat -- I would have the heads surfaced and the inserts checked to see if they have pulled - have the valve seats checked to see if they are to deep - what size are the valve guides?
The two cases they fit well, revised for this Harley engine builder.

Be patient, you will soon see which valves I will use in these EVO cylinder heads. But give me time, I build as I go getting pieces.
 
  #12  
Old 09-01-2018, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz

reason we glyptol the internal alloy of older Harleys and Indian cases is we glass bead them, the nature of beading leaves a super fine glass residue that does not wash off with solvent , because its been penetrated into the pores of the alloy - the glyptol has shown that is does not flake off if kept thin ( adding a small amount of lacquer thinner helps with this ) , and wont let the glass bleed into the engines oil when its running


just me take others may have a different opinion
Water or ice blasting would take care of any glass residue or sonic cleaning as well. Some Italian engines get painted inside too for porosity reasons and Ive heard to lock in casting sand particles as well, But even those start peeling off over time so they steered away from that practise both in the gearboxes and engine cases.
 

Last edited by hellonewman; 09-01-2018 at 06:40 AM.
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  #13  
Old 09-01-2018, 09:01 AM
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Again, Subscribed.... Lots of good info here...
 
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  #14  
Old 09-01-2018, 03:52 PM
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when we were road racing buells in the 90s when they came out with the bikes, and we had issues with the engine being the support member for the lower portion of the ( frame that was not it was the engine ) - the twisting at 150 / 160 in the corners was making the alloy lower portion of the engine block sweat oil through the pores - we did not glyptol to save weight but brought it back into the mix and it cured the issue

I thought the reason Ferrari ended the painting engines and gearboxes was more about money then about sheading after production ownership - they always transferred what they learned on the track to the production, even if it did nothing - so they could say it was a racing transfer - but then again the Italians have car ideas about stuff that is not normally in the thought process of real people
 
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Old 09-01-2018, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz

I thought the reason Ferrari ended the painting engines and gearboxes was more about money then about sheading after production ownership - they always transferred what they learned on the track to the production, even if it did nothing - so they could say it was a racing transfer - but then again the Italians have car ideas about stuff that is not normally in the thought process of real people
Ferrari was a race team that made road cars as a necessary evil to support the racing effort. They are the only auto maker that did it that way, everyone else was a car manufacturer that dabbled in racing. Initially it was race cars you could drive on the road back in the 50's and 60's and even the 70's, there was really no distinction unless it was an open wheeled car like a sharknose. As with all things GP or F1, the technology trickles down and in this case I think it had mostly to do with the casting quality with porosity more than anything else. It just meant the car would make it past the 1 year warranty mark.
 
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Old 09-06-2018, 03:35 PM
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Great timing with the painted cases. Im rebuilding the engine and gearbox on an 83 Ferrari BB512i, check out the paint inside. I know others have different experiences and different reasons for painting internal engine parts but this is why I never would personally. This coating was applied at the factory after casting the parts in their own foundry and its flaking off. This is the transaxle.


 
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Old 09-06-2018, 04:08 PM
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if your going to use apples to apples and not apples to oranges

we glass bead old inner alloys cases - by the nature of this the surface is not smooth and slippery ( like the Ferrari trans ) its porous and the adhesion is greatly increased

when we do it all bets are off when a home owner with a can of krylon and a case of beer is involved
 
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Old 09-06-2018, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz

if your going to use apples to apples and not apples to oranges

we glass bead old inner alloys cases - by the nature of this the surface is not smooth and slippery ( like the Ferrari trans ) its porous and the adhesion is greatly increased

when we do it all bets are off when a home owner with a can of krylon and a case of beer is involved
Thanks for the laugh!

 
  #19  
Old 09-07-2018, 12:05 AM
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Returning to the thread of the post, my conclusion:

An Stock EVO piston in Shovel cylinder, needs 5.550" of stroke. Shovel Cylinder with fire ring have 5.33+0.200=5.53. Need to add 0.02, but using two base gasket can work.

But if i remove the fire ring, i need 0.200 plus length of cylinder. Adding 3/16 stroke base plate and double cylinder base gasket, can add this extra length.

If i remove the fire ring, and use pistons with 0.1875 minus of height (S&S 106-5554), and add double cylinder base gasket, i have the sufficient stroke to work great.






 
  #20  
Old 09-07-2018, 06:52 AM
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I don't get it a cone motor is a cone motor in visual - and your after what

evo drag motors have Real ones not street bikes with a cam - have bolt on cylinders at the base seen this in 1986 or 87 - with the bolt pattern of the modified evo head to fit up to it - and they use a copper o ring for a head gasket

what is it again your trying to do - if its reinventing the wheel your truly lost - but you can always put a kick only trans and a magneto for the 2 barrel delorto carb they do go together well
 


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