I just bought a super clean ratchet top 4 speed. Im a purist....that sounds like an oxymoron when modifying something but Im trying to stay true to an era and stick with as many factory HD parts as I can. Ill keep every original part I take off and not cut anything off or modify the frame. No billet parts either, no exotic materials, just a basic bobber made by hand.
Ill be back on the tank shortly then Ill make the rest of the sheet metal parts for the solo seat and rear fender.
first gear looks small so my guess its an FX gearing unit < good thing to have -- the clutch arm works with a foot operated clutch or a mouse trap unit panhead stuff --
you do not have the good TOB you have the one that wont take a beating and keep on ticking like a timex -- and you have the later speedo drive gear if your running a cable trans drive speedo or not its 77 on
the kicker cover stud kit is also incorrect as OEM period correct the studs with the nuts installed should only be 1/2 of one thread showing at the end and NO washers were originally used BUT today what your doing washers are fine but install the stuff loose with red lock tite and adjust to the spec -- that gives it a real finish look about the assembly = spend the extra time and think through the job end in what will quietly stand out
if you have concerns about leakage - fluids and gaskets - try this - take 3 sheets of paper towel - I like the medium gray silicone - rubber gloves smear some on your fingers and do both sides of the gasket all of it -- then place it in a one of the towels at one end - now fold the towel over the gasket and pat it all around till it feels totally flat - then put it in the second towel and do the same then the third towel -- what you end up with is a home made foam cometic look alike gasket, that will not cause seam spill out and will seal better then ever before - hi end restoration stuff you know the deal and the time it takes
just seen it you have a 24 tooth sprocket that will eat you inner primary top section at the starter housing - the o ring chain is the worst for this but you want an o ring chain
if your doing rear disc brake then drop the front to 23 tooth and the rear can go to 46 in the rear, that will give you a purr on the hi way with engine speed - if your drum braking it a belt drive helps with gearing, but a chain primary you can 25 the front gear on the compensator sprocket and that will also help a rear drum in gearing
first gear looks small so my guess its an FX gearing unit < good thing to have -- the clutch arm works with a foot operated clutch or a mouse trap unit panhead stuff --
you do not have the good TOB you have the one that wont take a beating and keep on ticking like a timex -- and you have the later speedo drive gear if your running a cable trans drive speedo or not its 77 on
the kicker cover stud kit is also incorrect as OEM period correct the studs with the nuts installed should only be 1/2 of one thread showing at the end and NO washers were originally used BUT today what your doing washers are fine but install the stuff loose with red lock tite and adjust to the spec -- that gives it a real finish look about the assembly = spend the extra time and think through the job end in what will quietly stand out
if you have concerns about leakage - fluids and gaskets - try this - take 3 sheets of paper towel - I like the medium gray silicone - rubber gloves smear some on your fingers and do both sides of the gasket all of it -- then place it in a one of the towels at one end - now fold the towel over the gasket and pat it all around till it feels totally flat - then put it in the second towel and do the same then the third towel -- what you end up with is a home made foam cometic look alike gasket, that will not cause seam spill out and will seal better then ever before - hi end restoration stuff you know the deal and the time it takes
I noticed the studs stuck out a lot, Ill correct that. Blind luck on the 1st gear choice (steep learning curve going on) but the foot clutch isn't what I want. I was thinking jockey shift with a clutch lever.
just seen it you have a 24 tooth sprocket that will eat you inner primary top section at the starter housing - the o ring chain is the worst for this but you want an o ring chain
if your doing rear disc brake then drop the front to 23 tooth and the rear can go to 46 in the rear, that will give you a purr on the hi way with engine speed - if your drum braking it a belt drive helps with gearing, but a chain primary you can 25 the front gear on the compensator sprocket and that will also help a rear drum in gearing
I want to eliminate the right side disc brake, considering a brake sprocket (if thats what its called) to minimize the rear brake look without going drum. Drum isn't out of the question and I do like the look of the drum rear swing arm vs mine.
I want to eliminate the right side disc brake, considering a brake sprocket (if thats what its called) to minimize the rear brake look without going drum. Drum isn't out of the question and I do like the look of the drum rear swing arm vs mine.
Hydraulic rear drums work better then you would think, I would run one for the look. Mechanical rear drums suck, that is a different story. So if you want the look, a properly setup juice brake will stop a bike. Good luck.
I noticed the studs stuck out a lot, Ill correct that. Blind luck on the 1st gear choice (steep learning curve going on) but the foot clutch isn't what I want. I was thinking jockey shift with a clutch lever.
----------------- but the foot clutch isn't what I want. I was thinking jockey shift with a clutch lever -------------------
I did not know you had two arms on one site -- good on you
I want to eliminate the right side disc brake, considering a brake sprocket (if thats what its called) to minimize the rear brake look without going drum. Drum isn't out of the question and I do like the look of the drum rear swing arm vs mine.
12-18-2017, 07:05 PM
