Some times the clutch plates stick together and don't release after years of sitting.


A word of caution - when your working inside the primary cover, it's a good idea to disconnect the battery. If you push on the wrong part you will engage the starter. It's not good for your fingers if they're in by the primary chain and sprockets when that happens.


Did you get a Service Manual with it?

 

Yes sir. I have a manual, but I have a slight problem, translating words to actually working on a bike.

I thought my evo battery was strong enough for this bike ? I know it had a recent charge, so I then jumped to another bike battery and it was enough to slowly turn the motor,

So, two good batteries, at once, slowly turns the motor over.

Solenoid ??

Thank you for the safety tip, I do appreciate that !

 

Be careful engaging the starter with the primary cover off ... There's a support for the starter shaft in the outer primary. Check all fluids, of course. If you were low on engine oil there's a good chance a significant amount is in the case. The oil bleeds by the check valve after sitting for a time. Good Luck and plenty of patience.

 

gallaecus, you're right about 7G. It does indeed indicate FXS-80 and it's listed in my 71–84 H-D parts catalog for FX models.

On the engine, 14 indicates an 80ci Shovel and 79 is model year. Next three characters represent day of production and last three characters indicate what number engine it was to be produced that day. You may find the same ten-character number under the left case (and inside the gearcase). But do all the numbers look factory-stamped? If you're not sure then you could post photos showing a few characters.


You said the frame number is a couple hundred higher than the reported “non-matching infamous 79”. But are you sure about that? The range was provided in H-D Service Letter ML-110.

At the rear of each crankcase half near the outer edges you may find further ID formatted similar to the following example: A123.
Eric

 

During the 1979 model run, some Harley’s were produced with engine numbers that did not match the frame number. The production date is reported to be from 1/9/79 – 2/7/79, and the frame VIN’s affected are 43000H9 through 48199H9. These models had engines numbered with a separate "crankcase number" instead of the frame’s VIN. This engine number is reported to be a ten digit numeric ID. Rumor has it that Harley went back to the old numbering sequence once the legal ramifications were realized. Regardless of the engine case number, the title must always match the frame VIN. Thanks to Cyborg Cycles for this information.

 

Yes, you are right uncle Larry, the engine oil is low, and I suspected it was sitting in the case, but I Figured if I kicked it enough, it would return and circulate, after 10 years, I think it needs a good circulate before actually starting.

Today, I'm going to drain the case, if I can find the drain bolt, haha.
Then I'm going to take the clutch apart and un-stick the plates, wish me luck on that one.
What gives me hope on this bike is, after ten years, nothing is locked up, not even the brakes, and there is little in the way of corrosion.

 

The dates you posted are the same as in H-D Service Letter ML-110 and the frame VIN range is the same too.
Eric

 

Unfortunately that was all too true with the 79's, can't tell you how many guys I've had come through swearing their 79 was an 80" and some unhappy puppies when it got broke down and found 74 guts.

 

I didn't put that ball bearing at the end of the adjusting screw. Seems like a really bad place for a ball bearing.

I'm pretty sure this is 80 ci. Doesn't matter much to me tho.


Carb torn down and very clean now
Tappet screen was very clean

 

You either put the ball back or get another adjustment stud with the flat end as it'll grind off the end of that screw without it. The little cup it fell out of won't take that kinda pressure without deforming and taking out the throw out bearing push rod too then you'll be pulling the other side apart to change it all.