Best fish sandwich in North America: BO's fishwagon, fresh everyday, don't let the appearence scare ya. If you're feeling freaky visit the Garden of eden. Best Bar (my opinion) Schooner's Wharf Bar. The ride through the keys is unique, I ride down at least 5 or 6 times a year and never get tired of it.
+1 for BO's Fishwagon! Also Turtle Kraals for stone crab claws. Used to be a KOA Kampground about half way down the Keys. Very quiet and peaceful when we stayed there years ago.