2002 FXDWG3 cam chain tensioner upgrad
#1
11-02-2012 | 02:36 PM
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee Fla
2002 FXDWG3 cam chain tensioner upgrad
Hello to all
I am Jack a newbie and some what lost.
But I don't wear my hart on my sleeve.
So you can come at me any way you would like.
Here go's
I have a FXDWG3 it have 23,000 mils on it and still runs like a top.
It is also my first HD. I am moving over from go fast bikes 1300cc.bosa
That being said I ride HARD! Therefore I thank I should change out my cam chain tensioners among other things. But right now I am looking at the tensioner up grade (hydraulic tensioner an high flow oil pump) or going to gears.
Guys what's best ? I have been reading post on this site and others and still have not been able to nail it down. I have also been in to 4 shops two of which I would not go back to have my front tire changed. Great guys just not my kind of shops The other two are great. one is pushing the gear system and the other the tensioner upgrade kit. ($1,500 to 2,000)
Point me in the right direction (i am in north Fla but not Jax)
By the way on my last bike I did not put my rear tire ten feet to the rear of the bike nor did I lower it. However I do like putting my keens in the pavement. (I am aware the is a old topic to most of you)
Thanks
Jack
I am Jack a newbie and some what lost.
But I don't wear my hart on my sleeve.
So you can come at me any way you would like.
Here go's
I have a FXDWG3 it have 23,000 mils on it and still runs like a top.
It is also my first HD. I am moving over from go fast bikes 1300cc.bosa
That being said I ride HARD! Therefore I thank I should change out my cam chain tensioners among other things. But right now I am looking at the tensioner up grade (hydraulic tensioner an high flow oil pump) or going to gears.
Guys what's best ? I have been reading post on this site and others and still have not been able to nail it down. I have also been in to 4 shops two of which I would not go back to have my front tire changed. Great guys just not my kind of shops The other two are great. one is pushing the gear system and the other the tensioner upgrade kit. ($1,500 to 2,000)
Point me in the right direction (i am in north Fla but not Jax)
By the way on my last bike I did not put my rear tire ten feet to the rear of the bike nor did I lower it. However I do like putting my keens in the pavement. (I am aware the is a old topic to most of you)
Thanks
Jack
#3
11-02-2012 | 03:26 PM
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee Fla
#4
11-02-2012 | 04:31 PM
Banned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 200
Likes: 2
We like the SE Hydraulic Cam Plate upgrade as we recommend it to anyone with a TC88. We highly recommend making sure the cam bearings are upgraded when doing this. This is going to be more cost effective than doing the gear driven cams especially if you have no interest in improving the performance.
If you are thinking of upgrading your camshafts then I would say you should weigh the price of the gear driven cams upgrade vs the chain driven cam & SE Cam Plate upgrade from your local service shops.
We install gear driven cams mostly on big displacement builds or if a customer prefers them otherwise we install many more chain driven cams and have not had issues with them.
If you are thinking of upgrading your camshafts then I would say you should weigh the price of the gear driven cams upgrade vs the chain driven cam & SE Cam Plate upgrade from your local service shops.
We install gear driven cams mostly on big displacement builds or if a customer prefers them otherwise we install many more chain driven cams and have not had issues with them.
#5
11-03-2012 | 11:20 AM
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,269
Likes: 2,242
From: san antonio
The only way you get the upgraded oil pump is to use the '07/later OEM, billet or hybrid cam plate; the upgraded pump does not retrofit to the early cam plates. The problem with the later OEM cam plate is that the rear cam rides in the parent material of the cam plate; I have seen them show excessive wear in less than 6000 miles in "built" motors. The later billet plate (PN25282-11) will require a cam change to "conversion" cams. The hybrid plate (PN25284-11} will come with the upgraded pump and allow the use of OEM cams. Either of the billet plates cannot be purchased separately, so if you wanted to run gear drives with either of those plates, you would have to buy the assembly and discard the tensioners and chain drive. A waste of money IMHO when the hydro tensioner/roller chain setup is totally adequate.
If you want to run gears, purchase the gear drive setup, replace the outer and inner cam bearings and install the Baisly spring in your OEM cam plate to increase idle oil pressure. The is the cheapest solution to eliminate the chain driven, spring loaded tensioners.
The cheapest solution to addressing tensioner failure would be to replace the OEM tensioner shoes with the CYCO tensioner shoes; different material, similar to the primary chain tensioner. The CYCO tensioners should last much longer than the more brittle OEM tensioner shoes. You could also install the Baisley spring at the same time to help with idle oil pressure.
EDIT: Lot's of ways to skin the cat, just depends on which cat you want to skin. BTW, the 2002 TC lower unit is solid; Timken bearing and hot forged crank; doubtful that you have any runout issues.
If you want to run gears, purchase the gear drive setup, replace the outer and inner cam bearings and install the Baisly spring in your OEM cam plate to increase idle oil pressure. The is the cheapest solution to eliminate the chain driven, spring loaded tensioners.
The cheapest solution to addressing tensioner failure would be to replace the OEM tensioner shoes with the CYCO tensioner shoes; different material, similar to the primary chain tensioner. The CYCO tensioners should last much longer than the more brittle OEM tensioner shoes. You could also install the Baisley spring at the same time to help with idle oil pressure.
EDIT: Lot's of ways to skin the cat, just depends on which cat you want to skin. BTW, the 2002 TC lower unit is solid; Timken bearing and hot forged crank; doubtful that you have any runout issues.
Last edited by djl; 11-03-2012 at 01:48 PM.
#6
11-03-2012 | 12:18 PM
Big Kahuna HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,881
Likes: 32
From: USA
We like the SE Hydraulic Cam Plate upgrade as we recommend it to anyone with a TC88. We highly recommend making sure the cam bearings are upgraded when doing this. This is going to be more cost effective than doing the gear driven cams especially if you have no interest in improving the performance.
If you are thinking of upgrading your camshafts then I would say you should weigh the price of the gear driven cams upgrade vs the chain driven cam & SE Cam Plate upgrade from your local service shops.
We install gear driven cams mostly on big displacement builds or if a customer prefers them otherwise we install many more chain driven cams and have not had issues with them.
If you are thinking of upgrading your camshafts then I would say you should weigh the price of the gear driven cams upgrade vs the chain driven cam & SE Cam Plate upgrade from your local service shops.
We install gear driven cams mostly on big displacement builds or if a customer prefers them otherwise we install many more chain driven cams and have not had issues with them.
#7
11-05-2012 | 08:28 AM
Thread Starter
|
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee Fla
Thanks!
The only way you get the upgraded oil pump is to use the '07/later OEM, billet or hybrid cam plate; the upgraded pump does not retrofit to the early cam plates. The problem with the later OEM cam plate is that the rear cam rides in the parent material of the cam plate; I have seen them show excessive wear in less than 6000 miles in "built" motors. The later billet plate (PN25282-11) will require a cam change to "conversion" cams. The hybrid plate (PN25284-11} will come with the upgraded pump and allow the use of OEM cams. Either of the billet plates cannot be purchased separately, so if you wanted to run gear drives with either of those plates, you would have to buy the assembly and discard the tensioners and chain drive. A waste of money IMHO when the hydro tensioner/roller chain setup is totally adequate.
If you want to run gears, purchase the gear drive setup, replace the outer and inner cam bearings and install the Baisly spring in your OEM cam plate to increase idle oil pressure. The is the cheapest solution to eliminate the chain driven, spring loaded tensioners.
The cheapest solution to addressing tensioner failure would be to replace the OEM tensioner shoes with the CYCO tensioner shoes; different material, similar to the primary chain tensioner. The CYCO tensioners should last much longer than the more brittle OEM tensioner shoes. You could also install the Baisley spring at the same time to help with idle oil pressure.
EDIT: Lot's of ways to skin the cat, just depends on which cat you want to skin. BTW, the 2002 TC lower unit is solid; Timken bearing and hot forged crank; doubtful that you have any runout issues.
If you want to run gears, purchase the gear drive setup, replace the outer and inner cam bearings and install the Baisly spring in your OEM cam plate to increase idle oil pressure. The is the cheapest solution to eliminate the chain driven, spring loaded tensioners.
The cheapest solution to addressing tensioner failure would be to replace the OEM tensioner shoes with the CYCO tensioner shoes; different material, similar to the primary chain tensioner. The CYCO tensioners should last much longer than the more brittle OEM tensioner shoes. You could also install the Baisley spring at the same time to help with idle oil pressure.
EDIT: Lot's of ways to skin the cat, just depends on which cat you want to skin. BTW, the 2002 TC lower unit is solid; Timken bearing and hot forged crank; doubtful that you have any runout issues.
Thanks for the information.
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#8
11-05-2012 | 08:48 AM
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee Fla
#9
11-05-2012 | 05:20 PM
I'm thinking about upgrading to the SE Hydraulic Cam Plate this winter if I can afford it. How difficult is this project to do? I'm no mechanic genius but I like working with my hands so I did all my cosmetic upgrades myself and do my own maintenance. What parts would I need or is there a kit I can buy? I have all the basic tools and access to air tools but other then that are there any special tools I need or should buy?
#10
11-05-2012 | 06:21 PM
Road Captain
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 564
Likes: 6
From: Wyoming USA
Hey I swapped my old tensioner and cam plate/pump out last winter for an 07 plate/pump.I was about half way through my inner tens. so I decided to do the upgrade to hyd. tensioners and hi flow oil pump.I snagged a used plate/pump with all the sprockets and chains for $70,found a set of SE adjustable push rods with covers brand new for $80 from the classified forum here.Bought a set of Andrews 26N cams from direct harley parts.com for $225.Bought a set of inner cam bearings from the dealer for $15 and allso acoupla cam spacers $15.All said and done I put in about $450 and a easy day R/R and she was done.I never used any special tools except the manual.Got some great advice from these fine folks here on the forum.There is a video on youtube that does a cam swap that is well worth watching it's about 59 min. long.