Sooo, I adjusted the clutch the way the book and even the videos did. I got a hard cable response and couldn't pull it all the way back to the grip. It shifted good and all but the lever could only be pulled back to within 3/4 to 1inc from the grip. I didn't think nor liked it so I adjusted the clutch the easy way like the proceddure in the sticky at the top of the forum did. I wasn't able to put it into gear, no clutch engagement. I went back to the original way and got the clutch back but it engages at the last 1/3 of travel in the lever. I'm getting goofed on this and the quick fix eludes me as of now. Sorry for the long winded thread.

 

Are you collapsing the cable all the way? Sounds like you're just adjusting at the basket

 

Yes as a matter of fact the cable was adjusted out more originally. I collapsed it all the way in for a reference point to start as in the easy clutch adjust in the sticky in the do it yourself thread. It didn't return the orginal length that it was at and yes the clutch ***** were seated.

 

To get your clutch to engage closer to the handlebar turn the adjuster screw out 3/4 turn from lightly seated. Make sure the screw doesn't move when you tighten the lock nut.

 

Thanks I did it at 3/4 before the easy clutch adj. way in the sticky. I think 1 full turn may give me the results needed. I playing with this thing on and off all day so far, I let you know what the results turn out to be.The first time when I changed the primary fluid it was 3/4 turn out and it gave me a lever that wouldn't come all the way back without being loose at the cable end at the lever.

 

Well I started from the begining again,and only turned it out 1/2 turn and adjusted the cable to the 1/16th cable slack. I'm right back to square one with trouble going into first and finding neutral. When I started I changed the primary back to HD primary from RP 20-50w. Is there anyway to see if the clutch plates incurred damage due to RP or going back to HD fluid? It's had RP in it for 8k miles and it makes me wonder.

 

Are you making sure the ***** are seated in the base of ramp?WHEN you get the basket adjusted squezee the lever a coupla times this will seat the *****,then adjust the slack.I go with 3/4 turn the 1 full turn will put you at the bar.I went through the same thing last week everytime I adj. it it would come out way different every time.The ***** were getting hung up on the ramps on the trans side,I took the trans cover off and took the cable off and the plate then wiped them off and then stuck it all back together,works like a champ now.I tried to adjust it the easy method but it sure wasn't easy for me

 

Almost hate to ask this as it seems so obvious, BUT, are you taking all the slack out of the cable at the adjuster in the middle of the cable?

 

Yes it's the first step in adjusting the clutch. I suspect that the clutch plates may be the culprit since they are the original ones but only have 11k on them. Adjusting a clutch is not suppose to be this difficult. I heard some bikes are tempermental with certain adjustments some and some just have sweet spots.

 

Too much fluid can gum up the plates and make for an unpredictable pull