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Who's Using Race-less Inner Primary Bearing?

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Old 03-21-2012 | 06:37 AM
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Default Who's Using Race-less Inner Primary Bearing?

I recently had a failure of my primary chaindrive inner mainshaft oil seal due to a walking bearing race on the mainshaft, on my '04 FXDP with TC88A. I'd like to replace the OEM race/bearing with a one-piece Baker High-Torque or an All ***** Inner Primary Upgrade bearing, and dispense with the separate (walking) race entirely. But I'm not finding much info about the reliability/longevity of this aftermarket replacement.

For anyone who has used either of these for a while, what has been your experience with them? Any problems? How long have they been in service trouble-free? I appreciate any advice based on your experience.
 

Last edited by M&P340; 03-21-2012 at 06:52 AM.
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Old 03-21-2012 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by M&P340
I recently had a failure of my primary chaindrive inner mainshaft oil seal due to a walking bearing race on the mainshaft, on my '04 FXDP with TC88A. I'd like to replace the OEM race/bearing with a one-piece Baker High-Torque or an All ***** Inner Primary Upgrade bearing, and dispense with the separate (walking) race entirely. But I'm not finding much info about the reliability/longevity of this aftermarket replacement.

For anyone who has used either of these for a while, what has been your experience with them? Any problems? How long have they been in service trouble-free? I appreciate any advice based on your experience.
I have not used either product but as a member of HTT, have read a ton of posts on both. The consensus on that forum is that, on balance, there are issues with longevity with either product. There is also consensus on the best fix and that is to replace the OEM race with the S&S tapered race; I have done that. The SnS race will "lock" onto the mainshaft and will not walk. If I were in your situation, I would replace with the SnS race. JMHO.
 
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Old 03-21-2012 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
I have not used either product but as a member of HTT, have read a ton of posts on both. The consensus on that forum is that, on balance, there are issues with longevity with either product. There is also consensus on the best fix and that is to replace the OEM race with the S&S tapered race; I have done that. The SnS race will "lock" onto the mainshaft and will not walk. If I were in your situation, I would replace with the SnS race. JMHO.
Much obliged. I appreciate the suggestion.
 
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Old 03-22-2012 | 12:08 PM
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Mark from Baker here we sell 80 to 100 of our units a month and have been for 8 years now. In the 12 combined years of our sales staff we can not remember more than a hand full of failures. Our bearings are sealed and there life can depend on when the internal lubrication from the manufacture fails. To avoid this failure you can remove the primary side seal so that the bearing can get constant lubrication from the primary.
 
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Old 03-22-2012 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark P
Mark from Baker here we sell 80 to 100 of our units a month and have been for 8 years now. In the 12 combined years of our sales staff we can not remember more than a hand full of failures. Our bearings are sealed and there life can depend on when the internal lubrication from the manufacture fails. To avoid this failure you can remove the primary side seal so that the bearing can get constant lubrication from the primary.
Mark, thanks very much for the reply.

It is my understanding these one-piece bearing units were originally designed/intended for open primaries and high-performance applications. When used in closed/oil-bathed primaries, does Baker go so far as to "recommend" removal of either/both side seals to enhance longevity? And are there any issues with oil starvation of the mainshaft seal due to being blocked from direct oil flow by the sealed bearing?
 
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Old 03-23-2012 | 09:11 AM
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M&P we as a collective group we have gone back and forth on the issue. My personal recommendation is to remove the outer sheild. Oil, grease, lube what ever you want to call it comes from the same base component and will break down over time. Fresh fluid in my opinion is always better. I have had my high torque bearing in my 96 Fatboy for 5 years now with the primary side sheild removed, I put between 4000- 8000 miles a year on it and all is well. I think I know Bert Baker's opinion on it but before I tell you I will run it by him again. James likes the S&S tapered race and being that he formerly worked at S&S he knows how to dump some horse power into a bike. Two great products to choose from to get rid of the problem child stock race you have now. Life is good.
 
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Old 03-23-2012 | 10:29 AM
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Mark, good information, - & greatly appreciated!
 
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Old 04-14-2012 | 03:09 PM
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I have used it, not real sure about it. It still leaks between the shaft and the bearing itself. Ive tried retaining compound, but it still doesnt seal between the two. Im switching back to the old style as I write. Changed out my stator, decided a few more minutes and Id replace oring, spacer, and new seals for main shaft. When I got the pulley off, it wasnt the transmission at all, it was leaking out of the primary. I used green loctite retaining compound, cant remember number off hand, but supposed to lock and seal up to .020, still doesnt hold shaft to bearing. Figure is its going to leak, Im going back old school and put old style bearing and race back on it. Was hoping this would solve one of the problems with leaky old rotary top 4 speed, but, no joy.
 
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Old 04-14-2012 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by bgh4hrlyd
I have used it, not real sure about it. It still leaks between the shaft and the bearing itself. Ive tried retaining compound, but it still doesnt seal between the two.
Sounds like you are not using the oil seal, if you are not, you will have a leak...

Edit, not oem seal obviously (M&P340`s post caught my goof)...the one supplied by Baker.
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 04-15-2012 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 04-15-2012 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by bgh4hrlyd
I have used it, not real sure about it. It still leaks between the shaft and the bearing itself. Ive tried retaining compound, but it still doesnt seal between the two. Im switching back to the old style as I write. Changed out my stator, decided a few more minutes and Id replace oring, spacer, and new seals for main shaft. When I got the pulley off, it wasnt the transmission at all, it was leaking out of the primary. I used green loctite retaining compound, cant remember number off hand, but supposed to lock and seal up to .020, still doesnt hold shaft to bearing. Figure is its going to leak, Im going back old school and put old style bearing and race back on it. Was hoping this would solve one of the problems with leaky old rotary top 4 speed, but, no joy.
I must not be following you? Are you saying you tried to seal up the primary by bonding the one-piece bearing to the mainshaft, without using the smaller diameter i.d. primary seal that comes with the Baker High-Torque and AllBalls bearing upgrades? The new seal supplied with those bearing upgrades should prevent leaks out the primary. Obviously you absolutely cannot use the OEM primary seal when using the one-piece bearing since the OEM seal seals on the race, which isn't there with the one-piece upgrades. Have to have the upgrade seal, which seals directly on the mainshaft bearing surface (that was originally beneath the race).

I recently installed the AllBalls double-row/angular contact raceless bearing upgrade and the main primary seal supplied on an '04 TC88A, and I removed both side seals on the bearing prior to install to ensure primary oil gets to the *****. It never occurred to me to bond the bearing to the mainshaft. So far, no leaks at all but it's way too early to call it a success. So far, so good . . .
 


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