Nice bike! We all love pictures too! Looks okay to me. The only thing I can say at this point is you must have had something off the 1st go round. Also just an fyi, your settings are prolly okay with a stock clutch. Some aftermarket clutches require different setting. For example, my bike with an Energy1 extra plate needs to be set only 1/8 turn out at the clutch pack. You may experiment with different settings on yours like 1/2 turn out just be aware that will make the clutch engage further away from the grip. As for the cable adjustment you can go 1/16" to 1/8" with no problem. Glad you got it solved!

 

Clutch cable issue.
So I’m a long time reader, first time caller here. Had put on a new clutch cable on my street glide 103. Worked perfect. Swapped out my stock levers for Poison Scorpion levers. Front brake went on fine, works fine. Clutch lever went on fine, ZERO PULL resistance. Re-Adjusted slack, hard as hell to pull and the pull feels like the cable isn’t sliding through the cable housing and more like it’s snagged up and the pull i do get is just me stretching the tiny bit of slack in the cableitself.super wierd being how all I did was loosen the cable, swapp lever and re tighten cable. Check trans side cover, cable still connected and engagement ramp functioning too. and functioning. Anyone ever have an issue like this

 

Did you adjust the clutch at the adjustment stud underneath the derby cover?

 

That 1/2 to 1 turn is huge, remember, the rod pushes plate for clutch to "open" more play less open, I find 1/4 to not exceed 1/2 is optimal

 

At the Clutch Pack:

The adjustment of the nut in the clutch pack alters where the friction zone ends up on the lever on the bars, i.e., clutch lever engages close to the hand grip or almost all the way released from the hand grip.

The clutch adjuster screw adjusts the point at which the cable begins to pull the clutch out of engagement. If you turn the clutch adjuster screw clockwise, you adjust toward slippage, if you turn it counter clockwise, you increase the slack before disengagement (drag). If the adjustment screw is turned too far clockwise, the clutch will be disengaged or slip no matter what position the cable is in. If the adjustment screw is too far counter clockwise, the clutch will drag because you cannot, regardless of how much slack you remove at the lever, disengage it enough to remove the contact. Note that this may lead to the "welding" of the clutch components.

The service manual recommends 1/2 to 1 counterclockwise turn after turning the adjuster screw clockwise to lightly seat the screw.

Following the procedures in the service manual:

· 1/2 turn counter clockwise the clutch will engage further from handgrip as you release the lever. Turning the adjusting screw 1 turn, you will feel the clutch engages closer to the handgrip as you release the lever.

· 1/8 to 1/4 turn of the adjusting screw reduces your friction zone, with the clutch lever almost all the way out from handgrip before clutch engages.

· 1/2 turn is the stock adjustment, which is just fine for most riders. It insures friction disc separation, clutch disengagement - which provides smooth shifting and finding neutral.

· 3/4 to 1 full turn, the clutch lever releases close to the grip. It may not give you good separation of the discs resulting in difficult shifting, creeping of the bike in gear, harder finding neutral and faster clutch disc wear.

· A motor officer will have their clutch adjustment screw turned 3/4 to 1 full turn from being lightly seated to have their friction zone beginning close to the handgrip during their rodeo exhibitions.

When turning the clutch adjustment screw; you are adjusting the push tube and setting where the ball and ramps start to disengage the clutch. The release bearing is also known as the “throw out bearing” (on the right side of bike). When you pull in your clutch lever you are compressing the clutch springs allowing the clutch plates to disengage. Imagine a rod (pushrod) pushing on something that is spinning - if there wasn't a bearing (throw out) the rod wouldn't last too long.

At the Lever:

Use the cable adjuster to increase/decrease slack at the hand lever to about 1/16" to 1/8". Too much slack and clutch may drag/too tight and clutch may slip. If free play between end of cable ferrule and clutch lever bracket is more than 1/8" at the handlebar, the clutch may not fully disengage.

Most Harley Davidson lever positions are set at about 1/8" of clutch lever spacing. However, the best positioning of the lever is where it works best for you - as long as it still "works" or gives you the best control over the clutch's operation.

There are boundaries you want to stay within. Do not adjust the lever too tight where it will slip, or too loose where it will not disengage all the way. Keep the lever clean and lubricated, including the lever pivot pin.

 

Yep, all good with the stock clutch on those larger limits. I have a Energy 1 extra plate clutch with a non stick diaphragm spring. I adjust mine 1/4 turn out.

 

Two touring bikes, 2 clutches.
I always peek at this b4 adjustment. My bike I can do blind folded.
My wifes older Electra Glide standard (FLHT) is fussy.

I didn't need it this time, but still looking for my 10mm wrench.

 

I have a '23 FLHP with 2800 miles. I had some excess free play at my clutch lever (about 1/4"-3/8") and tried to adjust it using the method Doc Harley advised in a youtube video www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZILUb8CWQ4k. The free play is gone at the lever, but I must have done something wrong because now the clutch will not disengage even when the lever is fully against the hand grip. In other words, the engine dies as soon as I put it in gear. How screwed am I? Any suggestions for a fix short of 1) going through the full procedures outlined in the service manual; or 2) hauling it to a dealership?

 

Not screwed enough.. Back off the lock nut when adjusting the center adjuster.

 

so does it matter if your in neutral or a gear when adjusting?