Use an off set 11/16 closed end wrench with a "cheater"... and turn on it, hard! It'll break!

 

no, that "pulling" not normal. Clutch out of adjustment, or clutch plates worn.

 

OP says only 1500 miles. Were the ***** set in a little grease when assembled. Is the cable installed correctly on both ends? Can you rule out the cable? Adjust the clutch closer to 3/8 turn out and 1/16" play at lever. See what happens then.

 

Was this ever resolved?

 

A few years back I had stainless cables installed on my bike. Last night I was going to adjust my clutch just a tad to get rid of a bit of slack. Went in the primary and got that part handled. Slack is gone. Bike shifts fine. I went to adjust cable and there is just a chrome cover these which doesn't seem to be able to remove. I used to have a black boot there with my stock cables. Has anyone had these before? Should I still adjust at the cable? I didn't make much of an adjustment at all, maybe a half turn. I can't see how this cover would come off. I doesn't look like it's made to remove.

 

Please disregard. I called the dealer and got the part number which is 38851-09 for a Diamondback stainless braided cable. It has a cover over the locknuts that needs to be slid up. I hope this helps anyone that has the same style. Good cables though. Been on there 6 years and never needed adjustment.

 

Hey Guys, I am at a loss and need some help. So here is my problem. my 2008 Softail Deluxe FLSTN has a new clutch pack and diaphragm and shifted perfectly fine for approximately 2k miles. The bike sat for a while. I rode it on a very hot day and did ride it pretty hard as I usually do, but prior to riding I loosened my bar risers to move my 16" bars a little bit further up/forward, which may have inadvertently caused some binding on my clutch cable or so I thought. The clutch was getting stuck after 20 minutes of riding to the point the clutch cable could not be adjusted nor would the clutch engage or disengage, So I towed it home. I thought maybe I had heated up my clutches and burned them up. I removed all clutch plates to inspect and most still look good. I removed the Clutch Cable and it doesn't appear broken. I removed the transmission oil slinger and clutch push rod and that is not broken, I inspected the clutch push rod ramps and 3 metal ball bearings and they still look good, so I re-greased them, re-attached the cable, cleaned all clutch plates and oiled them, re-installed everything and tried to re-adjust clutch as I have done many times, but when pulling in the clutch lever it feels like the ramps just get stuck or binds up and I see no movement in the clutch pack or diaphragm to indicate it is capable of moving in and out. I am at a loss and don't know what should be my next step to resolve. Please help!

 

Hey Guys, I am at a loss and need some help. So here is my problem. my 2008 Softail Deluxe FLSTN has a new clutch pack and diaphragm and shifted perfectly fine for approximately 2k miles. The bike sat for a while. I rode it on a very hot day and did ride it pretty hard as I usually do, but prior to riding I loosened my bar risers to move my 16" bars a little bit further up/forward, which may have inadvertently caused some binding on my clutch cable or so I thought. The clutch was getting stuck after 20 minutes of riding to the point the clutch cable could not be adjusted nor would the clutch engage or disengage, So I towed it home. I thought maybe I had heated up my clutches and burned them up. I removed all clutch plates to inspect and most still look good. I removed the Clutch Cable and it doesn't appear broken. I removed the transmission oil slinger and clutch push rod and that is not broken, I inspected the clutch push rod ramps and 3 metal ball bearings and they still look good, so I re-greased them, re-attached the cable, cleaned all clutch plates and oiled them, re-installed everything and tried to re-adjust clutch as I have done many times, but when pulling in the clutch lever it feels like the ramps just get stuck or binds up and I see no movement in the clutch pack or diaphragm to indicate it is capable of moving in and out. I am at a loss and don't know what should be my next step to resolve. Please help!

 

Sounds like something is happening in the ball and ramp area. Did you stick the ***** in the bottom of their ramps with a dab of grease to hold them in place? Also, are you sure the cable end is connected properly to the ramp hook? Lastly, can you describe exactly how you adjusted your clutch? Is the any play in the cable, or is it taught?

 

So first and foremost, to adjust my clutch I back unlock the 11/16 lock nut on the clutch pack and back out the adjustment threaded clutch bolt, I set my cable back to zero, meaning I am no longer showing any threads on my cable adjuster. Yes, I did add a dab of grease on ramp *****, and they are in their slots respectively. I am able to move the ramp back and forth smoothly without the cable. I attached the cable end connector to the cable side first then slide the top ramp from it's side. then I set the ramp arm connected to the cable end to the furthest point away from the cable, I then secure the transmission side cover back on. then I proceed to tighten the clutch pack adjustment threaded bolt with my allen wrench, but just to the point it barely sits or begin to feel some restriction, then I back it off approximately 3/4 of a turn, then I lock the 11/16 locking nut in place. I proceed to adjust my clutch cable but only to the point where I can still insert a quarter size coin within the clutch lever. I have added a zip file of some images I took of the clutch ramp. .......So having said all that I just redid everything I just explained and for some reason I am now able to get the clutch lever to engage and disengage the clutch again. I guess I will secure everything and fill it back up with oil and test ride the damn thing. I will let you know the outcome, but really do appreciate you responding.