OK so my 94 FXSTC has been on the lift for about a month now. I finally bit the bullet and handled a few electrical issues I've been having. (BIG thanks to Dan at Badlands!)

Funny...NOTHING I did had ANYTHING to do with my clutch, primary or anything to do with that system at all

but...after I got it fired up today (started real nice after getting some fuel in the bowl) I went around the block a few times, and when I went to park I heard this shitty noise like metal popcorn comin from the primary

turned it off immediately. opened the primary

starter gear is a little torn up, and inside of primary...the ribs on the inside? ALL chewed up!

It seems that the clutch hub has a little slack in it, like...what's the word...end play? like the clutch assembly can move a tiny bit up and down by hand...

gonna pull primary cover tomorrow and give it a look.

If I go with one of those 66T starter gears...are they a smaller diameter maybe?

What would cause the starter gear to hit the inside of the primary like that?

UPDATE:

This AM I pulled the outer primary off, and the starter jackshaft bolt was COMPLETELY LOOSE! The bent tab washer that is supposed to hold it on was still there, but the bolt wasn't engaged at all. What I heard bouncing around was the pinion gear

The starter ring gear is pretty much f-d.

There appears to be the slightest bit of endplay at the clutch basket. I can as I said move it (only a bit) by hand.

any ideas?

 

Clutch hub bearing? I would pull the primary chain and clutch off and check it out real good. If the bearing is shot you might want to replace the bearing race also. you stated that the ring gear was hitting the inner primary. Was that just a guess before you tore into it?

 

If the clutch hub bearing was bad, that makes sense...it'd allow the clutch setup to "wobble" while it was spinning, causing the ring gear to hit.

man...I don't want to gripe but things just are not going smoothly for me.

I don't think that's something I can do myself. I don't have the tools, pullers, etc. Don't you need something to compress the clutch in order to pull it?

 

Im not sure about the older models. I have only torn down twincams. You will need a primary locking tool, torque wrench, correct size sockets, probably bearing puller and im not sure about the race but you will need special tools for sure. I had to pull mine down two weeks ago to replace the belt. A service manual will walk you through it. It took me two days but thats because I had to round up all the parts and tools I needed. One other thing to look for is cracks on the clutch basket.

 

thanks, man...feeling totally overwhelmed again

gonna have to find a shop I think. I don't trust myself to do something like this properly, and even if I had the tools I might not do it right.

 

NICE. The threaded hole on the release plate where the adjuster screw goes is stripped!

ahahahahha life!

at least a new release plate isn't expensive.

 

I had the same problem on my 98 RK.. Mine happened to me outside of Hollister CA a few years ago. What I found the problem to be was when my bike is hot, if it doesnt fire right away, sometimes the starter will kick backwards. When it does that, it loosens the jack shaft bolt. Then it wont engage properly and just tear up everything. I had to replace the clutch basket, jack shaft assembly and the bushing in the outer primary.

I went to ride my bike a week ago, and the starter sounded like it was grinding, so I pulled the outer off, and sure enough, the stupid lock tab on the dumbass jackshaft washer had bent out from the motor rotating backwards, so when the starter went to engage, it would grind on the inside of the bushing again. Its a horrible design...

Pullin the clutch basket is a big pain it the butt. You will need some super sized sockets, breaker bar, torque wrench, and some way to lock the chain into the stator and clutch basket. HD has a rubber block they use, I used a 2 dollar harbour freight screw driver handle.

I dont know about the FX, but on the touring bikes the ring gear wasnt avail by itself, unless you went aftermarket. I know Jims makes a set, and I ordered my replacement jackshaft, starter pinion and hardware as a kit from custom chrome If you have to replace the clutch basket, its cheaper to get the Screamin eagle clutch over the stock. and its better.

 

****ing meepers! nailed it!

With the outer off today I engaged the starter a couple times after putting the jackshaft bolt back on and torquing to spec

the damn thing kicked backwards every time! I mean it turned over, but when I let go it went backwards!

I'll be able to get the clutch off...found some friends

ring gear, yes, aftermarket. Was going to use an 84 tooth for a faster start but not as much strain on the batt as the 66, BUT...if I do replace, I'll keep that SE in mind

Thanks for posting, dude.

question...was your primary actually chewed up? mine...the starter ring gear is literally hitting the ribs inside the outer primary cover.

 

mine was destroyed, but a big part of that was I broke in Yosemite national forest, and there were no dealers that could get me in/stocked parts for an evo motor on our trip.. I had to push start my bike all the way from Yosemite, to reno, to sacramento, to Sanfran, and then BACK to phoenix. I put nearly 1k miles on it with the pinion rolling around in the case dragging on the backside of the flywheel.

I had to replace.... Clutch assembly, pinion, jack shaft, outer primary bushing, inner primary seal, the sleeve that goes on the inner primary and it caused quite a bit of marring to the outside primary. Since I had to pull it off again, I updated to the late model primary this time with the 5 bolt inspection cover. I would LOVE to go with a dry clutch, but damn thats a pricey conversion.

 

dude you could have at least opened it up and pulled the pinion gear and the like OUT! or SOMETHING!

glad mine wasn't that bad! that sound it makes bouncin around in there! NASTY!

I'm gonna try a 9/66 starter gear combo because they are more affordable than the 10/84. I don't have a high torque motor, just a mild stroker, so...it should work out ok even with the extra draw on the battery at start

I think I need to make sure my timing is correct. I've read that even mild timing issues or too aggressive an advance curve can cause that motor kickback as well.

thanks!