I try to use Timkin whenever I can, I have had a great track record with them.

 

Interestingly enough, having a hard time finding a specific brand.

What term should I be using if I were to look online?

 

Look in yellow pages or maybe Timkin's web site. You ought to be able to find a distributor or reseller locally. If you're going that route you'll have to get the old bearing out and take it with you. They ought to be able to find an exact replacement.

I don't know what your clutch basket is like but I'm going to assume it's similar to my 96 FXD. The bearing is a double row ball bearing, and it's pressed into the basket. If you get that done at a machine shop they should be able to point you to a local bearing dealer. If you get it done at a Harley dealer they'll have the bearing.

 

I do have a harley dealer fairly close by but I tend to avoid them. Just seems like any time you go in one of those places you get raped. Guess it's not that different from another shop

I'm really bummed about this whole thing. I have no ****ing clue which way is up anymore.

Took the clutch assembly to a local indy...he said the clutch has to be taken completely apart to put a new bearing in there. I was under the impression that wasn't the case. He also said he completely doubted I even need a new bearing. But everyone on here that saw the video I posted was totally alarmed by it. Again...head up my *** here. NO clue what's right or wrong.

AND...pulled the starter jackshaft assembly out of the primary and everyrhing's ALL f-d up in there. The seal between the jackshaft and the primary was torn up, the splines on the jackshaft where it couples with the starter are worn, and the bushing in the inner primary is all f-ed up, too.

Sounds like the inner primary case has to come off now, too, no?

got no money. don't have the knowledge to do this right and the manual aint sufficient...back to feeling I shouldn't be the owner of this bike. sucks, too, cuz I just got done fixing many of the ****ly electrical issues I was having and now THIS...but I straight up can not afford to keep trying **** and seeing if it works.

bummed.

 

Wow, tough break there JustDave. I'm not 100% positive, but I do think the clutch has to come apart to replace the bearing. You do need to take all the frictions and steels out anyway because right now the inner clutch hub and the outer shell are locked together via the clutch disks.

Thinking back to the video, if the clutch hub and basket are locked together, then the only place that it could wobble would be on the clutch shaft itself, and maybe the bearing is ok. Maybe it's worn splines on the shaft or inner clutch hub, or both. Or the bearings in the main drive gear that the transmission input shaft roll on. Don't know.

Yeah, you need to pull the inner primary off to replace the jackshaft seal and the mainshaft seal.

Tell us, is the main drive sprocket nice and tight? Little or no freeplay?

This is off the wall, but I need to bring it up. When get the inner primary off, check the bearing race that is pressed on the transmission main shaft. Is it there? That assumes it's the OEM style bearing in the inner primary and not a once piece aftermarket unit.

 

It's gonna be a while, dude. I'm done ****ing with this thing for now.

Pulling inner primary, according to manual, requires removing starter and loosening both tranny and engine mounts...

probably requires yet another tool that I don't have

as for any movement or anything...if the mainshaft had a problem, wouldn't I be able to move it by hand? It is solid, with absolutely no movement, and spins freely by hand with the bike in neutral.

The bearing where the mainshaft comes through the inner looks like a one-piece to me

Funny thing is...bike ran and worked pretty darn good before I got into all this bullshit. I had some valve train noise, and occasionaly starting problems but that was it

hilarious.

 

We have an industrial bearing and seal company here in Danville called Applied Techonologies. Give em a shot, 434-799-9610. I'm not sure if they can help, but its just a phone call to find out.

 

Uhghhh. Weird, I wonder why. I'm only familiar with my 'Dyna and my Eglide.

That's a good sign. At least something is going right.

Ok. That must be an aftermarket unit then. Mine is stock and it's a two piece, or that's what I call it. The inner primary has the outer race and caged roller bearings, and the mainshaft has the inner race pressed on it that the rollers ride on. From what I've read that one piece style is used on higher horsepower scoots because somehow the OEM inner race can walk on the shaft under the increased load. Hard to believe considering how hard I had to pull on that sucker (with the right tool) to break her free.

I hear ya. In my case, I got to ride mine a total of 5 days since replacing the shifter shaft and associated lever last fall. It was late in the season, and I put it away for the winter right after the repair was done. 5 crummy days on fresh oil and a new Wix filter. Then my liffter roller went bad and my inner cam bearing was starting to go. Completely 100% unrelated to anything I did last year. Like you said, hilarious.

Well, push it to the back of the garage for a while and go back to it when the head clears and the finances improve. It's not going anywhere.

 

Thanks Pat

it's hard for me to let things sit. I don't sleep well, and it makes it hard to handle other unrelated issues.

I definitely need to replace the jack shaft oil seal and the starter bushing in the inner primary. They look like a dog got hungry. Obviously due to the fact that the starter wasn't being supported by the wrong-sized outer primary bushing.

sheesh. Funny...fact is that two "experts" had this primary apart...no wait...THREE!!!!!! and not ONE noticed that GLARING improper fitment?

jesus.

no wonder you guys all do your own wrenching. Somehow the Harley world is just full of half-assed mother****ers.

anyway...clutch beaing is the least of my concerns right now...I can get one from pretty much anywhere...

 

you shouldnt need to pull the inner primary, The Custom Chrome jackshaft kit I got came with all the crap for the jackshaft all the way to coupling for the starter motor. You should be able to replace the seal no problem with the inner on the bike. What I just ran into on my bike this weekend was the bendix clutch IN my starter was trashed. Make sure you cant spin the starter motor both directions. I put everything back together just to have to pull it all back apart again. I was pretty unhappy about that. Luckily, I had a new starter from my trip last year that I bought when I thought thats what was broken originally, and it was a fairly easy swapout after pulling my primary and oil filler neck off again.

When mine came apart it destroyed the fat race that the pinion gear splined into as well, and like I said, it comes with the replacement kit.

As far as the clutch basket, you might just be better off picking up a used clutch basket that was swapped out for a performance unit or belt drive. Thinking about it now, what I should have done was gone with a dry clutch after this last time.