Did you use any heat? I broke a breaker bar trying, I'm thinking a little heat or cutting it off. It's too early for me to have a drink over it.

 

I was warned to be careful with heat because there's supposedly some kind of seal nearby... so do that at your own risk... I *did* use a torch for about 30 seconds on mine. Have ridden the bike about 80 miles since I put it back together. So far so good......

 

When dealing with left and right threads the load condition will determine which it is if you have no book. Picture this. The crank turns counter clockwise and resistance from the comp in theory if something slips will rotate the head of the nut or bolt clockwise trying to tighten it. That's the ticket here, load tightening. When veiwing how the loads have an effect on the face of the attachments, it makes for right hand for engine , left hand for clutch hub since the hub is now driving the trans shaft. Coming out of the trans, the shaft drives the sprocket, just like the engine, or right hand. All this bs is just a carry over from the days when keys were used. Don't need it with splines anymore.
Ron

 

Then why did HD change the threads from left-hand to right hand on the transmission pulley sometime between 2002 and 2009? Someone said their 2002 service manual said their threads were left-hand and mine are right-hand. From earlier in this thread:

sqdealgeorge
Road Master
My Garage Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Mauston Wi
Posts: 877



I have an HD 2002 touring models service manual open and on page 6-17 they state that the trany sprocket nut has left handed threads (clockwise off ) HD has had left handed threads on this nut ever since time began (at least since I started wrenching circa 1960 )

 

Definately a right hand thread, it changed for the 2009 bikes. You might try some heat, but first I would use the sproket locking tool. You are getting to much free play by holding the brake. You can get that from Georges too.. You are also right, the torque now is 35 ft lbs. Then use a grease penc to mark a horizontal line on the sproket and then another line 45 degrees from that on case. I use a timing degree wheel to determine the correct angle.
There isn't a torque for 45 degrees past the 35 ft lbs. The engineers figured the 45 degrees was correct. With some heat to free up the factory locktite and the sproket locking tool. She will come right off.

Stroker

 

I'm sure they used too much threadlocker, what dripped on the locking plate would have more than enough to hold the nut.

 

I'm only pointing out how the choice for lefts and rights are determined. Obviously harley changes it up from time to time, since splines eliminate the real need for this method. This is why a manual is important for a specific bike. Generally you can trust what it says.
Ron

 

Electric impact wrench did it for me, now I just need the rain to go away.

 

My own update: I rode my bike to/from work again today. A little over 30 miles one-way for the trip. There was a storm heading this way when I was on my way home so I was GETTIN' it. It really is a noticeable difference in the way the bike behaves/performs and it's all for the better. So far I have zero regrets on this mod. YMMV, yadda yadda, etc, etc. I'd do it again.

 

Quick update for anyone who might care. I was editing my original post this morning to indicate the nut is 2 1/4" and not 2.5" like I originally said, and thought someone might want a long-term update. I have almost 17,000 miles on the bike now and the pulley swap is still my favorite mod I've done to the bike. I've had absolutely zero problems with the bike. I have surprised the sh*t out of plenty of friends with the bike and the pulley helps in that regard. If I buy another Harley that has the same gearing as my '09 Street Bob had then I'll swap the pulley out on it in a heartbeat. Ride safe.