I need a little help understanding some clutch cable terminology and how somebody is supposed to change out a clutch diaphram spring.

First the terminology thing. I have seen in the cable adjustment tips by TCSTD and the manual the following statements:

"Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way" and
"Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed".

I'm not trying to be a smartass, I just don't get it. I don't understand what a "collapsed" cable is supposed to do or look like or which direction "back off" means. Which direction do you turn the cable adjuster nut to "collapse" it. To the right or left? When "collapsed" is the clutch lever loose and have a lot of freeplay in it? I know the cable itself is a fixed length, and the sheath and adjusting nuts can provide the ability to expand or contract the overall length of the sheath so it can provide a variable point when the handlebar lever and the throwout ramp arm come under tension. So are we talking about shortening or lengthening the sleeve here by making the adjusting nut assembly shorter or longer?

The other part of my problem has to do with replacing the diaphram spring. I'm replacing the tension ring in the stock clutch with a variable pressure clutch (VPC). I'm also putting in the stiffer SE diaphram, hoping to end up with a smoother, lighter pull force at the handle, with higher clamping power as RPMs are added. Anyway, the directions for the VPC call for only removing the derby cover and then removing the tension ring which sits over the diaghram spring, and bolting in the VPC. They don't give advice for replacing the spring. What I found was that by backing off the bolts that hold the tension ring on, the whole clutch assembly expands (I assume because the spring is no longer under tension) and pushes the ring up against the primary cover with some force. I managed to use some force of my own to pull it up and out. Now I'm wondering if I am in a bind. Can I do the same for the spring itself w/o damaging either the cover or the edges of the clutch assembly hub, etc. AND somehow get the stiffer SE diaphram back in the hub w/o damage? Should I just take off the primary cover?

Have any of you guys out there done this? If so, how did you do it? I hate to drain the primary, remove the whole cover, get a new $30 gasket and all if it is possible. But I don't want to hurt anything either.

Thanks in advance for any advise to either of these questions.

 

When they say to collapse the cable, they mean to loosen it up. That means screwing the two halves of the adjuster together to effectively shorten the cable sleeve. The adjuster is the long metal portion of the clutch cable, usually near the downtubes of the frame.

For the second half of your question, I need to know if you have a Twin Cam or an EVO. If it's an EVO, you have to remove the primary cover (outer) to get the clutch spring out. With a TC, I don't think you have to, but it would make the job a lot easier... besides, it's simple to remove and reinstall (and you can get gaskets for under 30 bucks online). Why make the job harder than it needs to be?

Did you use the spring compressor to remove the diaphram spring? On an EVO, you need a spring compressor (I made my own). I don't think the TC needs one. Your HD Factory Service manual will tell you how to change the spring. If you don't have the factory manual, GET ONE before you do anything else. The Clymer and Haynes types of manuals are basically useless and full of misinformation.

When all is back together, make sure you follow the instruction to adjust everything.

By the way, which VPC are you using? One brand required a different, deeper outer primary, the other doesn't. I'm thinking of switching to the VPC design on one of my machines.

 

Thanks Spectrexx,

Your description of the cable change is exactly what I was looking for. I've definetly got the official service manual, its just the language used that gave me a problem. You've confirmed what I wanted to know there. Thanks.

Sorry, I forgot to tell you all an important part, as I didn't use the "signature" that shows and tells what my ride is. It's a 2000 Dyna Wide Glide, so its a TC-"98".

The VPC I have is the AIM Tamachi. http://www.aim-tamachi.com I'm trying a model VP-83T. I also have a "Ride to Live" cover that they say fits, and I used the paper "template" they provide to confirm this derby cover clearance. What I wasn't expecting was the diaphram and tension ring to press on the primary cover when relaxed.

They tout a "10 minute change", but that doesn't include changing the spring I guess.

Yeah, I'll probably drop the whole cover this morning. I'll let you know how it all works when done.

 

Here's the answer on the diaphram spring out through the derby cover hole,...

It doesn't fit. [:@]

So, I'm draining the fluid and taking the primary cover off. Oh well. No big deal. Just time.

 

Good to hear you got it figured out. Just make sure no part of the clutch assembly is contacting the primary cover once everything is back together. Good luck and let me know what you think of the VPC once you get it going. That's the brand I'm thinking of buying. Thanks!